24 volt starer

My m1031 has a 24 volt starter. It rolls really fast regardless of temperature. Got me to thinking if there is one available for 7.3s? I'm stranded on location. Lots of time to think about this stuff.lol

I haven't heard of one. I wouldn't want one if it weighs anything like the one on your m1031 does. Those are horribly and our starters are enough of a challenge to change without all of the extra weight. By the way, your m1031 is completely 24v through the whole electrical system as far as I know.

No..just the starter is 24v. the glow plugs are fed off of a big resistor Bank.The starter is same size as the 12 volt unit. I did know if any of the larger trucks use 24 volt. Again that thing really spins fast. Of course the two batteries are in series, but there is a lead that takes off between the two batteries to feed the 12-volt portion of the cab.

Well,it appears that an SAE 3 24 volt motor will fit our gear reduction nose cone.Looks like a $350 conversion including alternator/reg. conversion. Physically the same size motor.

Honestly, it's not needed. A non-worn-out 12V reduction starter works just fine.
There's no need to go for antything more, not when the cheapest IDI starter on Ebay will crank that sucker over quite quickly... at least for a while.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Premiu...-for-Ford-Diesel-7-3L-6-9L-16658/152583788574
These aren't the best by any means, but they have more than enough torque to spin an IDI over quickly as long as you have halfway decent batteries and cables.

The 24 volt spins so fast,it rarely even needs the glow plugs.Much cleaner cold starts.

So.... what are you going to do for the rest of the trucks electrical system?......

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I can pull 12 volts between the two batteries in series.Just feed the cab as normal.Getting ready to retire in a few months.My IDI truck is being built to last me I hope for the rest of my life as a utility vehicle.All of my trucks except my Dodge and this IDI have a NATO 24 volt slave in the grill. I'm going to standardize my fleet as much as possible.The 24 volt system works so well,and only needs to provide 1/2 the amperage to operate properly. It is much easier to provide voltage than it is amperage. Especially when long-term storage is involved.

Thats why so many older medium and heavy duty diesels run higher voltage systems. Still takes the same amount of energy to spin the engine over regardless, but with higher voltage you have more pressure pushing the amps through the circuit, and you can get away with smaller gauge cables. Congrats on your upcoming retirement, im sure youve earned it

Thanks Thewes..I think I may find something part time.No travel.I have a client in the Texas panhandle asking me to come down a couple times a year,but other than loyalty to them I am staying home.lol

Thewespaul said:

Still takes the same amount of energy to spin the engine over regardless, but with higher voltage you have more pressure pushing the amps through the circuit, and you can get away with smaller gauge cables.

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Yep the only advantage to a 24V system is that you can use lighter cables. It still takes the same amount of energy to spin your starter. A lot of boats run 24V due to the longer wire runs.

With the 30" cable runs run to the starter in an IDI, this is a solution in search of a problem. If your batteries were in the back of the bed i'd say its something worth considering. Yes you only need half the amps at double the voltage, but by running your batteries in series you have doubled the voltage but cut the amps available in half.

Ex. I have two 12v batteries capable of 800 CCA each. Wired in parallel as they are, they can produce 1600 amps for cranking at 12v. With heavy gauge cables and short runs to the starter there is very little loss.

You wire these same batteries in series, you have 24v but you can only produce 800 amps now. Unless you have a loss problem due to a long cable run or a restriction on the gauge of cable you can use, there is no advantage to be had over 12v.

In my opinion, you are much better served buying a high quality 12v gear reduction starter that lots of IDI owners have proven reliable, than by trying to whip up a 24v system just for the hell of it.

Also if you wired your batteries in series for 24V you'd have to get a separate battery and alternator for the cab, or use an expensive transformer to step the 24V down.

No loss, just thinking about a standardized fleet.Those NATO slaves/cables are so convienient.Just plug and go.Renj..i can pick up 12 volts in the series circuit between batteries.

Comptech said:

No loss, just thinking about a standardized fleet.Those NATO slaves/cables are so convienient.Just plug and go.

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Are you providing power to something with them, or using them to charge/jump start the truck?

After I made sure my glow plugs were in order and return lines didnt leak, I bought two new batteries, cleaned up all grounds and lugs and bought a Powemaster starter.

That was a year ago and I havent had a problem starting since, I get down to single digits Fahrenheit. To be honest my starter sounds like it is spinning way faster than it needs to.