79jasper
Chickenhawk
I have a write up floating around on the heim joint.
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Clutch adjustment help please!
- Thread starter mexicanjoe
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
You can work the clutch pedal yourself while you're laying on the floor looking up at the pedal pivots. Then if you have much play anywhere, you will be able to see it.
mexicanjoe
Full Access Member
No bushing play, the pedal moves the clutch fork abt 1/2". Everything looks ok on the outside. Took the bottom cover and wow! This don't look like a normal clutch set up.. may have to send it off to get repaired. Probably cost more than the pickups worth...any pearls of wisdom from the peanut gallery?
austin92
Full Access Member
I doubt your truck is worth less than 300$ lol. Look up the luk single mass flywheel conversion kit
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YJMike92
Full Access Member
Agreed
There is a procedure for checking play in a dual mass flywheel. I think the spec is 5/8-3/4” of play is “acceptable”. The Luk solid flywheel kit is pretty fool proof. Just have to make sure you order the correct kit. If your truck is factory NA it’s balanced lightly different than factory turbo. Mixing parts will lead to a nasty vibration. As long as your fuel system is in reasonably good shape, it’s not much if any louder than the dual mass flywheel. Certainly less chance of it coming apart which is what eventually happens to a worn out dual mass.
Search here. This ones been beat to death over the years.
Search here. This ones been beat to death over the years.
One little thing you can check. It has nailed me before and several other people I know. Don't know if it has gotten anyone on this board or not, nobody mentioned it.
Take the clutch master reservoir cap off and make sure the rubber bladder is in the cap. It may not be there, so you say "oh well, someone may have lost it". 9 times out of 10 it is stuck on top of the master reservoir, it is very very hard to see this. So you top off the reservoir with fluid, but all you are doing is filling the little depression in the rubber bladder, the clutch master below the bladder is starving for fluid. You can also take a pencil or something like that and poke down into the fluid to see if it goes all the way to the bottom of the reservoir, or does it stop part of the way down when it hits the bottom of the bladder.
Take the clutch master reservoir cap off and make sure the rubber bladder is in the cap. It may not be there, so you say "oh well, someone may have lost it". 9 times out of 10 it is stuck on top of the master reservoir, it is very very hard to see this. So you top off the reservoir with fluid, but all you are doing is filling the little depression in the rubber bladder, the clutch master below the bladder is starving for fluid. You can also take a pencil or something like that and poke down into the fluid to see if it goes all the way to the bottom of the reservoir, or does it stop part of the way down when it hits the bottom of the bladder.
mexicanjoe
Full Access Member
Hey franklin2, I checked the fluid level, & it was ok. However the little fluid bladder was fully distended and did not collapse or fold back into the cap. I didn't appear low. Do I poured more fluid into the reservoir and let what ever left spilled over... Also how do I bleed the air out of the lines all the way to the slave cylinder? Pictures if you got them. TIRED OF DTIVING THE WIFES Mazda!
As long as you can see the fluid in the reservoir, that should be enough. If your clutch is working halfway, but there is still air in it, the only way to get it completely out is just to drive it, the vibrations from the engine and going down the road will migrate the air backwards up into the reservoir.
Some people do have other tricks, like taking the slave off and holding it above the master in the engine compartment and using the bleeder on the slave. But just driving it works for me.
Some people do have other tricks, like taking the slave off and holding it above the master in the engine compartment and using the bleeder on the slave. But just driving it works for me.
clutch adjustment?
I got the fix for you... lol
but do what everyone else said first.
I got the fix for you... lol
but do what everyone else said first.
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YJMike92
Full Access Member
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Maybe this will help if you are still working on your clutch.
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Last edited:
something else you might want to check that is super simple. try lifting your clutch pedal up towards you!
i have run into this, sometimes with the play in the system the clutch pedal does not quite pull up far enough. if that happens the piston inside the mater cylinder does not pull back enough to expose an internal port that allows fluid to pass through from the reservoir to the line itself. if this happens it does not let the system "self adjust".
i have run into this, sometimes with the play in the system the clutch pedal does not quite pull up far enough. if that happens the piston inside the mater cylinder does not pull back enough to expose an internal port that allows fluid to pass through from the reservoir to the line itself. if this happens it does not let the system "self adjust".
mexicanjoe
Full Access Member
Limited success!! I replaced the clutch slave cylinder, but due to a raging case of arthritis, I was unable to bleed all the air out of the cylinder. But it's better than before! I will try at a later date to re install the cylinder whilst ensuring it is full! Have to pump the pedal a few times before engaging 2ns gear or reverse, but afterwards its shifts nicely. Will update later
YJMike92
Full Access Member
It may bleed itself with use. I have seen that before.
Like mentioned, I have had to field repair a clutch line and mine bled itself out by the time I got home. About a half hour drive. The diesel engine makes for a decent shaker to get the air bubbles out lol
