1st post. Advice on safely re-starting a 94 7.3

8gitmusik1

1994_E350_7.3_IDI_N/A_E4OD
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Posts
169
Reaction score
48
Location
So.Ga - Made in the USA
The Pete was just a toy. Due to California emissions it can't be used for work. I put historic plates on it and took it to car shows.

I had to replace all the wheel bearing grease seals. The transmissions just got a top off. As did the rear end. I did have to steam out the fuel tanks then pull their drain plugs after i drovebit home. They had a black goo in them. I had to replace every rubber hose. Coolant,air etc. Other than that I basically put batteries in it and drive it home. I will post a couple videos if I can find them. Oh of course once it was warmed up I changed the engine oil and filters.

I sold it to another old truck guy and he was using it occasionally to move tractors around. He found a loophole in the law.
Hi chris142,
Glad you responded. I appreciate you going into details on the Pete. Your experience with a 20 year old cold start will help me with my start up and maintenence. THANKS for the videos.

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
 

Thewespaul

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,058
Location
Bulverde, Texas
Personally, I would change the filters and fluids before starting the engine. Water gets all into the oil from condensation from sitting, when you drain the oil you’re not draining what’s already in the bearings, rockers rings etc, you’re just emptying the pan and refilling it with clean oil. Many manufactures like cat prescribe to not prefill their oil filters because of that, they say it’s better for the engine to run without oil pressure than with contaminated oil. Just my 2 cents
 

8gitmusik1

1994_E350_7.3_IDI_N/A_E4OD
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Posts
169
Reaction score
48
Location
So.Ga - Made in the USA
Personally, I would change the filters and fluids before starting the engine. Water gets all into the oil from condensation from sitting, when you drain the oil you’re not draining what’s already in the bearings, rockers rings etc, you’re just emptying the pan and refilling it with clean oil. Many manufactures like cat prescribe to not prefill their oil filters because of that, they say it’s better for the engine to run without oil pressure than with contaminated oil. Just my 2 cents
That was my thoughts exactly. I still havent started it as I really want to be sure to get the most continued longevity as it already has 320k on the odometer. I am going to change the oil and oil filter before 1st start after 4 years sitting. The engine wont be warm so it wont drain fast and I may not get all the oil out but if I get most of it out, along with condensation (H20) collected in engineI just feel in my gut this is the smarter choice. Im glad to hear you second that opinion. It makes makes me feel more confident in my final decision to do so.

Let me be clear though on the oil filter?

Are you suggesting, NOT to pre fill the oil filter, with new oil? I had definety planned on pre filling the filter after draining the oil pan. Also, should I drain and renew the trans. fluid in the E4OD TRANSMISSION as well? I had planned on waiting till after start up to do the transmission fluid and transmission filter change?

Whats your take on the tranny Thewespaul?

While Im responding to your advice here now, Thewespaul, let me ask you this, if it were your vehicle and its sat this long, would you start it with the old coolant and minor, leaking radiator and then do a distilled water flush or start it, after the old fluid with distilled water and run it as a flush for 30 mins. and then drain and repeat till clear and the install a new radiator and new fluids?

Im still concerned about lingering misc. radiator crud in the old radiator that may could damage the water pump seals or?Am I overthinking this whole first start process? Id appreciate your take on my situation and my stated concerns?

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Thewespaul

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,058
Location
Bulverde, Texas
I’ll answer that with this, I recently started a thread called “crew cab build” it’s a new truck our 13 yo picked up. The truck hasn’t started in awhile, and I plan to pull all the glow plugs out, change the oil, drain the coolant and fill with distilled water, and replace the fuel filter. With the glow plugs still out, I will turn the engine over with the starter until I get oil pressure. With the plugs out, there will be no compression and no resistance to the starter turning over. This makes it a bit easier on everything that’s moving from its resting place, and not working it right away like if the glow plugs are in. Once I have oil pressure I’ll put the glow plugs in and see if it starts, checking temperatures at the injectors to see that the cylinders are firing fairly even, watching the exhaust for any smoke, and the water in the rad for any bubbles or lack of flow. For the trans, just pull the dipstick and see how it looks, if it’s clean and pink you’re fine for just a startup to confirm the engine is healthy. I fill these oil filters with a small funnel into the small outer holes, this is the inlet of the filter so you’re not filling it with unfiltered oil.
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,236
Reaction score
10,925
Location
edmond, ks
Im still concerned about lingering misc. radiator crud in the old radiator that may could damage the water pump seals or?Am I overthinking this whole first start process? Id appreciate your take on my situation and my stated concerns?
Here's my opinion on this one (as such, it's subject to error [disclaimer]). I don't think that I'd worry much about the radiator. I'd think that if there's much crud in the radiator, then the water pump seals won't last very long anyway. If it's full of rust because of somebody just adding straight water, then your block is also full of rust and you'll need to flush it out anyway. I'd DEFINITELY recommend NOT using a new water pump for this. Personally, I'd just start it like it is and figure if it leaks, it leaks.
 

8gitmusik1

1994_E350_7.3_IDI_N/A_E4OD
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Posts
169
Reaction score
48
Location
So.Ga - Made in the USA
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
Nice old Pete. Thanks for the vids. Made my day actually. Im loving the old school vibe. That color of paint? Is that primer or original grey? Either way it rocks the look well and I bet it ran like a scalded dog down the interstate. Sorry you had to let it go...

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
 

Conky

Registered User
Joined
Dec 5, 2006
Posts
47
Reaction score
15
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Cycle plugs twice and hit it with the cosby. Mint!
For a tuneup: drive the hellout of her once she warms up. keep her to the metal though the first 3 gears
 

8gitmusik1

1994_E350_7.3_IDI_N/A_E4OD
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Posts
169
Reaction score
48
Location
So.Ga - Made in the USA
I drove my Pete home on 20 yr old fuel then I ran that fuel out before refilling the tanks.

I don't recommend changing the fluids before you start it. Leave the oil and filter on. Old oil is better than waiting on a dry engine to fill a filter.
So guys, HELP explain this please......
Update on van progress

Here goes, so, I took this advice above about not changing the oil or filter before eventual first start and for a month or so, pondered it for awhile because its been raining alot here, and, money has been tight and so, since I pulled the oil dipstick in January 2018 and saw no indication of milky oil or water or antifreeze and the oil level was fine, I kept on saving my money, asking questions here on the forum and waiting for better weather.

And until I had all my parts, fluids and tools together, ready and staged for the multi-part service, and a laundry list of planned repairs such as new batteries, radiator, thermostat and all hoses change out, new starter, glow plugs, glow plug harness barrel end rebuild, oil and fuel filters, coolant flush and upgrade to pre-charged fleetguard etc.

Now not that it was bad advice but because I never changed the oil and filter and instead kept buying parts over the last couple months, I never expected what occurred today since the van ran very well before it was parked due to its small radiator leak and glow plugs and starter needing replaced.

By the way, I did get a break in the weather the other day and did drain the antifreeze and it still had a little over 4 gallons in the radiator, and it was for the most part a very green color after it settled in the 5 gallon bucket the next day when checked.

Well it finally stopped raining today and I thought well I'd get out there to the van, throw a tarp down, crawl under the beast and go ahead and change the oil and filter and finish doing the other bullet connectors on the drivers side of the glow plug harness while the oil drained from the pan.

Well, I didnt have any leaks when it was parked, it was under a carport for a long time and so, wasnt directly in the weather so, what happened next freaked me out.

I got the oil buckets underneath, ready to catch the oil and so I loosened the oil pan bolt and whoosh out comes clear water.

I mean ***!? REALLY? YEP......

I'm thinking how in the heck did this clear water get into the pan other than condensation? Anyone, please explain this. Can that occur in 3 years of sitting? Hood closed, air filter on tightly? So anyway, it keeps on coming out, not rusty, not in the least, and no oil...water, almost a gallon of it before the oil miraculously appeared, dark like it always has been from soot, but not milky, and not mixed together?

And the water, when I put my hand under the flow from the drain hole and smelled it, it smelled like nothing, plain old water and when I rubbed my fingers together, not slick, just plain water, and definitely NOT at ALL, like antifreeze?

Guys, I stumped. And the worst of it, I now have all this money tied up in parts, money I guess I couId have used to get another vehicle. Man, was I counting on this working out, and hoping to make progress at get this van back on the road again.

The fact it ran so darned well before and figured that, with new batteries and all the rest I could revive my good old faithful van.

Now this happens and Im am REALLY bummed and dont know what to do next?

Should I even, still finish the oil and filter change? Or, should I even consider doing any of the other things I was planning and finally got all the parts for, to make this a reliable vehicle?

Or, does this new development mean my engines toast?

IS THIS THE DEATH RATTLE OR IS THERE ANY HOPE AT ALL?

Im baffled at this development? Anyone else ever experienced ANYTHING like this?

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
No...no..NO. Really? With the hood closed and air cleaner housing in place? Macrobb, man, your blowing my mind now.. is there ANY hope.... Crapolla :(

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
Drain it, fill with oil and fire it up? It hasn't mixed in with the oil, which means it came from sitting, not running - If it was leaking while the engine was running, the water and oil would become 'milkshake'.

Then, check the cowl seal and air cleaner seal. Air cleaner wingnut tends to leak.
 

8gitmusik1

1994_E350_7.3_IDI_N/A_E4OD
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Posts
169
Reaction score
48
Location
So.Ga - Made in the USA
WOW! so, in your opinion, guys, my engine is NOT toast and I should continue with my oil/filter change, and other repairs as planned? Cylinder walls should not be damaged by water? Heck, I was all doom and gloom, thinking I had to start scrambing to return all parts before I couldn't get a refund back on them and start my search for another vehicle. Man, I am naive about these old motors, more than I even realized. Mind is blown about now.

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
 

8gitmusik1

1994_E350_7.3_IDI_N/A_E4OD
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Posts
169
Reaction score
48
Location
So.Ga - Made in the USA
I agree. I'm also glad you didn't fire it up to heat the oil before changing it! :eek:
Me too Dr. CHARLES.

In a way, this discovery sounds like a blessing in disquise, meaning, not having the money right away for all my glow plugs, other parts and starter might have saved the day!

To think, if I had taken the advice on not changing the oil and instead, doing all the glow plugs, new starter install and harness fix first and then, firing it up with all that water in there...

Man o man, "lordy lordy, 240 gordy"....

I guess God was looking out for me on this one...

Thank you Jesus and my guardian Angel for watching out for me. Amen

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
91,217
Posts
1,128,517
Members
24,045
Latest member
Ramtough01

Members online

Top