Best order to install factory turbo parts?

DrCharles · Jan 16, 2019

Thank you! It's nowhere near the wye, which is good to know. The Autometer pyro probe sticks out about 1.5" and makes a right-angle bend before the wires come out of the sleeve, so it can't be too close to anything.
It looks like a location near the cast-in numbers (Pat. Pend. on yours) would get flow from both sides of the engine. Will also check to make sure it clears the frame rail before I drill a hole in an expensive casting.

Thewespaul · Jan 16, 2019

Make sure you have enough room to actually remove the pyro, it sits pretty far into the pipe

DrCharles · Jan 16, 2019

Good idea, thanks

This is a pic of the one I plan to purchase:
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/atm-2654_ml.jpg

DrCharles · Jan 17, 2019

BTW the hose I ordered from McMaster (link a couple posts ago) is not ideal. It won't work without an elbow since it's soft enough that any bends just collapse. I think it'll work with a 1" barb elbow in the middle between the CDR and the airbox nipple.
Meanwhile, still looking for the "right" hose to make it from.

Thewespaul · Jan 17, 2019

Here’s the part number off an old banks adapter hose. Maybe it will help ya

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ttman4 · Jan 17, 2019

Wes, in the pic you posted in post #30, where you mt the pyro?

In my '90 CC Dually (intercooler not hooked up yet) I currently have mine in upper part of my re-modified Banks dn pipe with my factory turbo. I've never hard worked this '94 IDIT engine since I stuck it all in. Need to get used to it & where/what to safely pull the EGT to when I'm pulling some of my really big nasty loads I occasionally pull.

Reason I ask, when I was running my ATS 088 kit the pyro was in the inlet snailshell & I'd pull up to 1200* -some 1250* but then back out back dn to 1200* & all was good & I was used to it. Now with this factory 093 & Typ4 rebuild I got to find out what EGT will be safe when I pull/work it hard. I've had some tell me around 900* now.

And Dr Charles, if you mt your pyro in the wye casting I wonder what a safe EGT would be safe mted there?

I've seen a couple these engines "melted" & it ain't purrdy. LOL

DrCharles · Jan 17, 2019

I figure that in the wye casting is only a few inches further from the exhaust port, and due to its thickness the gas probably won't be significantly cooler than in the manifold. I'm not going over 10 psi boost since I don't have head studs and expect this engine with (allegedly) 188K miles to last the rest of my life. So 1100 on the pyro is high enough.

The reason not to put it in the downpipe (despite Banks supplying a bung) is that the temp drop through the turbine is proportional to the amount of energy being extracted from the gases to make boost. So you really have no idea what the pre-turbo temp is. 900 post-turbo is probably safe. But maybe not.

Banks has a good article: https://www.bankspower.com/tech_article/why-egt-is-important/

Thewespaul · Jan 17, 2019

ttman4 said:
Wes, in the pic you posted in post #30, where you mt the pyro?

In my '90 CC Dually (intercooler not hooked up yet) I currently have mine in upper part of my re-modified Banks dn pipe with my factory turbo. I've never hard worked this '94 IDIT engine since I stuck it all in. Need to get used to it & where/what to safely pull the EGT to when I'm pulling some of my really big nasty loads I occasionally pull.

Reason I ask, when I was running my ATS 088 kit the pyro was in the inlet snailshell & I'd pull up to 1200* -some 1250* but then back out back dn to 1200* & all was good & I was used to it. Now with this factory 093 & Typ4 rebuild I got to find out what EGT will be safe when I pull/work it hard. I've had some tell me around 900* now.

And Dr Charles, if you mt your pyro in the wye casting I wonder what a safe EGT would be safe mted there?

I've seen a couple these engines "melted" & it ain't purrdy.

I put mine in the top of passenger side crossover pipe in a weld in bung, that’s pretty much the same distance from the port as where Charles will have his, I run up to 1200* in that location with no issues at all. Personally I think these engines could handle higher egts than 1200, but it puts a lot of extra wear on components.

ttman4 · Jan 17, 2019

Thanks Dr. & Wes.
I may change mine, or run 2. I have an extra Isspro pyro set.

DrCharles · Jan 19, 2019

Another question. The CDR mounts to the bracket on the valve cover. But there's supposed to be another mounting plate, a separate piece, which I don't have. It's #25 on the attached pic from Typ4.

What does that plate do - secure the rubber grommet that slips over the snout of the CDR? Do I have to make one, or can I just clamp the grommet in place? The diagram already shows a hose clamp there.

Thewespaul · Jan 19, 2019

The file won’t open for me, the factory turbo setups use a grommet sandwiched between the cdr and the hose adapter, you should be able to make one pretty easily with some flat stock and a barb fitting and a little welding

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DrCharles · Jan 19, 2019

I think because it's a .pdf it just downloads a copy, then you can open it locally. That's what it does on my laptop, anyway...

Sure, it doesn't look hard to make one, but if I don't need it, why go to the trouble

Thanks for the pic. That plate looks like it does nothing except keep the grommet from coming off the end of the CDR tube. I have the grommet on order, will see when I get it all together with the 1" ID hose and a clamp. It's actually not just a ring...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-6-9-7...-Breather-PCV-Valve-Retainer-OEM/201453808961

Thewespaul · Jan 19, 2019

It is just a ring, the link you posted is the adapter for an na truck that goes between the valley and the cdr mounted on the intake manifold

DrCharles · Jan 19, 2019

oh well, guess I'm out $10 then

Is the snout of the CDR the same 1" diameter as the nipple on the airbox? I must be missing something since I don't see why that piece (and grommet) would be needed at all... :dunno

Thewespaul · Jan 19, 2019

There’s only a nipple on one side of the cdr, and that’s what goes into the valve cover (or valley pan on na engines) the adapter is so there’s something for the hose to clamp onto.

Best order to install factory turbo parts?

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