Tire choices

DrCharles

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If you are running your tires at max pressure while not at max capacity, you are overinflated and will wear them in the center of the tread, reduce the available traction, and make the ride harsher.

Your nitrogen factoids have absolutely nothing to do with the temperature. As I stated quite a few posts ago, the pressure of ANY gas, or mixture of gases, drops with temperature! Whether it's 100% nitrogen, or 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, 1% argon and a bit of water vapor (a.k.a. air).
I give up. :frustrate
 

austin92

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I just wanted to post an update/conclusion. I put 275/45r16 load range E Goodyear wrangler AT adventurer on my truck and so far I’m very happy. I’ve actually had it wheel hop on snow. For a 2wd truck it’s doing very good, no weight in the bed, 35psi rear, 6” snow I can’t complain. It’s no mud terrain, but if it lasts over 45-50k miles I’ll buy another set. They’re firm, braking is as good as the truck can do, popping the clutch, they won’t spin. The tread has impressed me so far, mileage will be the deciding factor on if I buy again.

If you’re contemplating a set of these, buy them :). Personal experience, they’re better than bfg AT, 100$ cheaper


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DrCharles

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I have (old) mud terrain tires on mine and they are noisier than the IDI at speeds over 45 mph. How's the racket from your wranglers?
 

austin92

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I have (old) mud terrain tires on mine and they are noisier than the IDI at speeds over 45 mph. How's the racket from your wranglers?
Dead silent, can’t hear them, and I appreciate the slight noise from the stt pro’s on my 96 5.0 so I’m not exaggerating on how quiet they are


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Rdnck84_03

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This may have already been stated as I didn't read the entire thread, but make sure the tire has the LT at the end of the size. ( 235/85 r16 LT). Back when my wife still had her 6.0 we had new tires put on it and it wobbled all over the road even with 85psi in the front. Finally figured out that the tire store used the non LT tires. After a long battle with the tire store and having to threaten to involve the BBB they finally put the LT tires on free of charge. (Others had maybe 100 miles on them) Drove like it should afterwards. Same brand same size just with the LT.

Hope this helps.
James
 

nelstomlinson

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If you are running your tires at max pressure while not at max capacity, you are overinflated and will wear them in the center of the tread ...

I have been running my stock tires at 80psi for years, and have been expecting to see exactly that, because I'm usually running empty. I've worn out a couple sets of tires, and haven't really noticed that they are wearing more in the middle.
 

RDieselKid84

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austin92, glad you like the tires, like I said I have been running them for years. I hope you get as good of service as I have.
 

Jason1377

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This may have already been stated as I didn't read the entire thread, but make sure the tire has the LT at the end of the size. ( 235/85 r16 LT). Back when my wife still had her 6.0 we had new tires put on it and it wobbled all over the road even with 85psi in the front. Finally figured out that the tire store used the non LT tires. After a long battle with the tire store and having to threaten to involve the BBB they finally put the LT tires on free of charge. (Others had maybe 100 miles on them) Drove like it should afterwards. Same brand same size just with the LT.

Hope this helps.
James


Have to ask why is the LT so important for tires I've seen people run rock crawling type tires with no LT n never really noticed the LT at the end of tires
 

chillman88

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Have to ask why is the LT so important for tires I've seen people run rock crawling type tires with no LT n never really noticed the LT at the end of tires

LT just stands for Light Truck. As opposed to P for Passenger car. It's just a load rating thing is all. You don't WANT LT tires on a trail rig, you want softer tires that can flex more.
 

Rdnck84_03

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I just threw that in because after the ordeal i went through that you shouldn't just trust the tire guys to install what should be on the vehicle. I would venture a guess that all load range "E" tires are probably LT, not for sure though. ( i should have read the entire thread before i threw my half cent in)

I am not sure about all of the newer tires they have now but back when i was around the trail rigs years ago, they mostly all ran bias ply. I was also never around any crawlers that weighed enough to need LT tires. Everyone tried to keep them as light and nimble as possible.

As chillman88 said you need a soft tire that will contour to the terrain for traction with a crawler.

James
 

Rdnck84_03

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I will add to the tire discussion also.

Our 01 f250 powerstroke had brand new toyo open country AT on it when we bought it. At max inflation it had the soft spongy feeling in the rear with the gooseneck on. They also only lasted about 35k miles. It now has Hankook pynapro ATM. Running 65psi it feels very stable with the gooseneck or the 28' enclosed bumper pull. They have about 40k on them so far and still seem to have about 50% tread left. My 99 powerstroke dully has the firestone transforce AT. They have about 25k so far. The rears are getting pretty worn, the fronts were both replaced about 3 months ago under the road hazard warranty due to both of them seperating about 2 weeks apart. The 2 front replacements were the updated transforce AT2. They seem to be a solid on the front but i cant report anything on the rear sway since it is a dully.

The treadwear on the hankook seems to be far superior to the other 2 on a mix of gravel road and highway driving.

James
 

ShadetreeV

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Looking for a recommendation myself here. After some research I'm considering going stock 235/85 or bumping up to 285/75/16s on the stock steel wheels. Concerned about handling+sidewall flex / flat tire look with the wider footprint after reading through here. noted @Thewespaul running a 33" tire with 3.54 gears (I have idit/zf5/d60 front /10.25 lsd rear with 3.54 final) I'll be doing 75% highway driving, will tow around 10k intermittently moving projects, equipment and parts around. Haven't driven much on what I have right now. Currently have a set of worn out winter rollers just move it around while I work out the kinks.
Have a quote for some 235/85 Hercules AT II for $180 ea with a 60k warranty or 285/75 Corsa all terrain w/40k warranty for @$120 ea.
 

austin92

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Looking for a recommendation myself here. After some research I'm considering going stock 235/85 or bumping up to 285/75/16s on the stock steel wheels. Concerned about handling+sidewall flex / flat tire look with the wider footprint after reading through here. noted @Thewespaul running a 33" tire with 3.54 gears (I have idit/zf5/d60 front /10.25 lsd rear with 3.54 final) I'll be doing 75% highway driving, will tow around 10k intermittently moving projects, equipment and parts around. Haven't driven much on what I have right now. Currently have a set of worn out winter rollers just move it around while I work out the kinks.
Have a quote for some 235/85 Hercules AT II for $180 ea with a 60k warranty or 285/75 Corsa all terrain w/40k warranty for @$120 ea.
From what I’ve found in these load range E’s is the toyos and general grabbers were a true 2 ply sidewall and felt super soft even at 75psi. Side wall flex was completely unacceptable, it felt like it was going to just roll off the bead on high speed gradual turns. The bfg’s performed well, had they lasted longer I never would’ve started this thread. 38k miles for 1200$ is a good way to lose a customer lol. Them and the Goodyear’s are 3 ply sidewall and feel much more firm. The Goodyear’s have done well on dry, wet, and snowy roads. I’d put my 2wd up against a 4x4 with street/cheap tires. I can’t speak for the tread life yet but the member that recommended them to me had good life out of his.

Maybe irrelevant because they’re load range C, but I’ve had good luck with geolanders on my wrangler, cooper at3 on my Comanche, and stt pro on my 96 f150.


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