Maintenance / Repair Week

chillman88

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I would probably be pulling the whole cable and clamping it in a vise. Trying a little more and then letting it sit in penetrating oil overnight.

If it still wouldn't budge tomorrow, I'd drill through it.
 

RossCo

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IMO seems like a lot of work for one cable. If it was me I would replace it. Or rather, I build my own. Sounds like you are going to the parts store tomorrow anyway. Sorry I realize I'm trying to spend your money for you... Also in regards to the corrosion, like already stated Stainless hardware will help and any kind of grease will work. Coat those baby's up. I do this very thing and never have issues with the green and white fuzzies.
As for the batteries if no warranty and you have to buy new I would get some group 31. They seem to last forever and have a very good reserve and CCA.
 

Oledirtypearl86

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I'd hit it with some good penitrating oil and go have a wobbly pop or two then go back to it that usually works for me when I'm fighting something
 

chillman88

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I'd hit it with some good penitrating oil and go have a wobbly pop or two then go back to it that usually works for me when I'm fighting something

Sometimes the break helps me more than penetrating oil ever could. I'm quite good at getting frustrated.

I've never heard the term "wobbly pop" before. I laughed pretty hard at that.
 

Golden Helmet

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I'm packed up for the night, I'll hit it again tomorrow. I tried the hammer and punch method but without having the cable in an actual vice (which I don't have) I didn't get anywhere. I've got it hosed down with PB Blaster, so hopefully it'll be more cooperative tomorrow. I'm determined to not replace this cable, the starter region is an ultra-greasy PITA and I want nothing to do with it LOL

At least I got the new negative cables put in. The passenger side was not fun; the Ford engineer who put the frame ground in THAT spot, with a damn hardline directly over it, is going to hell. The driver side was easy, I just had to scrape away an inch thick layer of mud and grease to spot the darn thing. I took some pics for the heck of it, even following the cable I had a hard time finding where it went, it just vanished in to all the grease.

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IMO seems like a lot of work for one cable. If it was me I would replace it. Or rather, I build my own. Sounds like you are going to the parts store tomorrow anyway. Sorry I realize I'm trying to spend your money for you... Also in regards to the corrosion, like already stated Stainless hardware will help and any kind of grease will work. Coat those baby's up. I do this very thing and never have issues with the green and white fuzzies.
As for the batteries if no warranty and you have to buy new I would get some group 31. They seem to last forever and have a very good reserve and CCA.
It's definitely too much effort for one damn cable, but like I said before, I REALLY don't want to work in the starters neighborhood. I've thought about making my own set of cables before, but I don't have the tools (vice, crimper, torch, etc) or skills to do that job correctly. A new cable from Rock Auto is less than $60, so I'll go that route if I absolutely can not save this cable.

Too late on the batteries sadly. The dealership wouldn't warranty my batteries because I didn't buy them from them, so I had to pay full price for a pair of new batteries (I'm keeping my receipt this time, $350 for two batteries :shocked: ). I've read about people putting group 31's in these trucks, but iirc you have to mod the battery trays a little bit so the top posts don't hit the hood. I'll do some more reading on that though, just for future information.
 

RossCo

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I totally understand, I think we all fight the hard fight sometimes just for character building...haha...I have group 31's in my 85 F250 with no mods. Anyway if it makes you feel better you'll have a brother in Washington working with ya tomorrow.
Here is my list,
-Rear axle bearings, races and seals
-Front and rear axle oil drain mod
- Repair courtesy light short (once I find it)
- Solid state glow plug install mod
- oh and replace oil soked rear brake shoes

Yaaaayaaa :frustrate
 

Jason1377

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I'm packed up for the night, I'll hit it again tomorrow. I tried the hammer and punch method but without having the cable in an actual vice (which I don't have) I didn't get anywhere. I've got it hosed down with PB Blaster, so hopefully it'll be more cooperative tomorrow. I'm determined to not replace this cable, the starter region is an ultra-greasy PITA and I want nothing to do with it LOL

At least I got the new negative cables put in. The passenger side was not fun; the Ford engineer who put the frame ground in THAT spot, with a damn hardline directly over it, is going to hell. The driver side was easy, I just had to scrape away an inch thick layer of mud and grease to spot the darn thing. I took some pics for the heck of it, even following the cable I had a hard time finding where it went, it just vanished in to all the grease.

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It's definitely too much effort for one damn cable, but like I said before, I REALLY don't want to work in the starters neighborhood. I've thought about making my own set of cables before, but I don't have the tools (vice, crimper, torch, etc) or skills to do that job correctly. A new cable from Rock Auto is less than $60, so I'll go that route if I absolutely can not save this cable./QUOTE]

On Rockauto has me confused it has a left negative cable that is way different then OEM an then a left one that is spot on for OEM stock part for negative.

As for the postive cable are our trucks naturally with it an ambulance package or am I miss understanding that whole part I'm wanting to replace mine/have a spare if need be.

P.s sorry to hijack
 

Golden Helmet

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@Jason1377 I'm not sure where you're seeing two "left" cables listed, I'm looking at the list on Rock Auto right now and I see a left negative, right negative, and a positive cable with two terminals. I just searched for a 92 F250, I don't know anything about the ambulance packages. FWIW, the negative cables were almost perfect fitment, each one is just a few inches longer than OEM.

I think I came up with a solution for my issue with the battery cable. I'm going to file away enough lead on the connector so I can fit a socket over the square head, then let the impact get it out. This is gonna get real ghetto real fast :Thumbs Up
 

The_Josh_Bear

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I think I came up with a solution for my issue with the battery cable. I'm going to file away enough lead on the connector so I can fit a socket over the square head, then let the impact get it out. This is gonna get real ghetto real fast :Thumbs Up
That's actually a really good idea! Work smarter not harder. :D
 

Golden Helmet

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I've been rained out for two days, and I over-slept today (I'm enjoying my vacation :D ), so I'm lazy as hell today. Today I got that damn fastener unstuck, filing away at the connector and hitting it with the impact did the trick. The cable is saved!

Tomorrow I'm tackling the fuel filter header. I've got the o-rings for the heater, I got some olives incase they're needed (the old guy at the IH dealer actually knew *** I was talking about when I asked for olives, I think I found my new best friend), and a new fuel filter. If I have enough time / motivation, I'll try to adjust the fuel screw and make the coal go away. Bleeding all this air out is gonna be "fun", but we'll see how much my ancient starter likes its new batteries and negative cables.
 

Golden Helmet

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In today's episode of "it can't be this fkn hard" , the connector for the fuel heater is supposed to unplug from the top, right? Just lift it straight up to disconnect it?

It's stuck on there pretty good. I tried pulling with some pliers and prying with a screwdriver, but it barely moved and all it did was make a slight hiss and introduced more bubbles in to the clear line.

Pic below. For now I'm just gonna reconnect the batteries, it's been a while and I want to hear it run.

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