Over charging??

Dieselpowerking · Dec 17, 2018

So I bought my 1990 f250 about a year ago. I put a new alternator on it and new batterys and it's been charging fine till now it would charge at all well the batterys ended up being junk so got new ones that weren't leaking. Then it wouldn't charge so we got a voltage regulator. Now its charging at 14 volts at idle but when giving it throttle it goes all the way to 18.05 volts....... alternator now is making a clicking noise. Parts store are telling it's my connections. But I've replaced all of them and they are clean and tight.

Black dawg · Dec 17, 2018

Basically all of the trouble that I have had with these trucks is with that alternator/wiring/regulator. Probably the best money that can be spent, is doing a 3g conversion.

Dieselpowerking · Dec 17, 2018

Black dawg said:
Basically all of the trouble that I have had with these trucks is with that alternator/wiring/regulator. Probably the best money that can be spent, is doing a 3g conversion.

What's that?

DrCharles · Dec 17, 2018

Start here:

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/7-3-idi-alternator-swap.81594/

whiteboyslo · Dec 17, 2018

Sounds like a regulator. I would also advocate going with a 3G upgrade.

Mike

The_Josh_Bear · Dec 17, 2018

whiteboyslo said:
Sounds like a regulator. I would also advocate going with a 3G upgrade.

Mike

+1

The_Josh_Bear · Dec 17, 2018

Dieselpowerking said:
So I bought my 1990 f250 about a year ago. I put a new alternator on it and new batterys and it's been charging fine till now it would charge at all well the batterys ended up being junk so got new ones that weren't leaking. Then it wouldn't charge so we got a voltage regulator. Now its charging at 14 volts at idle but when giving it throttle it goes all the way to 18.05 volts....... alternator now is making a clicking noise. Parts store are telling it's my connections. But I've replaced all of them and they are clean and tight.

It's not the connections, it's the regulator. Parts store remans aren't known for quality. Bad out of the box is pretty much SOP.

mu2bdriver · Dec 18, 2018

I had an original 1G alternator that would go from not charging at all to overcharging regularly. I went through three or four external regulators from the three different major parts houses and none lasted more than a month. Connections were good, batteries were good, wires fine, and alternator tested good. I did the 3G conversion and never had another problem. Like others have said, it’s worth it.

chris142 · Dec 18, 2018

Make sure that the body of the fender mounted regulator is grounded well. If its still overcharging the new regulator is bad. I went through 3 in a few months.

I gave up on those and got a motorcraft one from a wreck. The gas engine trucks use the same regulator.

MtnHaul · Dec 18, 2018

Yeah, if you can afford it, or junkyard it, the 3g swap/upgrade is well worth it. I had never even replaced an alternator before I did mine and still managed to have everything done in a couple hours. Some good write-ups available online here and other sites as well.

Jason1377 · Dec 18, 2018

Random noob question how can you tell a 1g from a 3 g alternator I've not messed with mine are all but I've been thru two starters n a few batteries n one place told me that one battery was over charged is why the post burnt up

Black dawg · Dec 18, 2018

mu2bdriver said:
I had an original 1G alternator that would go from not charging at all to overcharging regularly. I went through three or four external regulators from the three different major parts houses and none lasted more than a month. Connections were good, batteries were good, wires fine, and alternator tested good. I did the 3G conversion and never had another problem. Like others have said, it’s worth it.

I don't know how many times over ten years this happened in my truck. Would take several tries with regulators, and usually an alternator or two before stuff worked right. After 10 years of driving the thing, converted it to a 3g. I think it has been 4 years now with no issues, and a voltage gauge that shows 14 volts regardless of accessory load or engine speed. With the 1g alt, it would take like 10 minutes of idling after a cold start before the voltage gauge would get above 13v. With the 3g, it shows 14v very soon after the glow plugs stop cycling.

Dieselpowerking · Dec 18, 2018

chris142 said:
Make sure that the body of the fender mounted regulator is grounded well. If its still overcharging the new regulator is bad. I went through 3 in a few months.

I gave up on those and got a motorcraft one from a wreck. The gas engine trucks use the same regulator.

I went ahead and replaced the voltage regulator and the alternator again with new ones but its charging at 16.5 volts at idle and if you rev it. Seems it a bit high to me.

whiteboyslo · Dec 18, 2018

Jason1377 said:
Random noob question how can you tell a 1g from a 3 g alternator I've not messed with mine are all but I've been thru two starters n a few batteries n one place told me that one battery was over charged is why the post burnt up

3G is internally regulated and was never an option in IDI-equipped trucks (I think). 1G is externally regulated. The regulator sits on the top side of the passenger wheelwell under the hood.

Mike

79jasper · Dec 18, 2018

whiteboyslo said:
3G is internally regulated and was never an option in IDI-equipped trucks (I think). 1G is externally regulated. The regulator sits on the top side of the passenger wheelwell under the hood.

Mike

I'm slipping.... came in 91? With the obs, also same time as serpentine belt.

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Over charging??

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