Clutch still dragging :(

DrCharles

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Posts
1,093
Reaction score
732
Location
West Plains, MO
I replaced the clutch hydraulics on the pickup. Not a bad job, took less than an hour. But it didn't fix the problem
You must be registered for see images attach
Still can't get it into gear with the engine running, because the clutch is still dragging. Which is strange because I can feel it engaging smoothly about 2-3" off the floor and it doesn't slip once the pedal is up.

Unfortunately there are only a limited number of parts remaining that can be causing this, and they all require the bellhousing to come off
You must be registered for see images attach
Which is even more fun on a 4x4 with the transfer case hanging off the transmission.

I'm thinking seized pilot bearing, cracked fork or throwout bearing? The pedal goes down with normal effort and no feeling of binding

I may just pay to have it done - think it's 6 hrs labor or something like that - I'm getting too old to freeze while lying on my back in the driveway, and I still don't have a lift. (Well, I do have one in the crate, but it's still in the crate because I don't have the money for a concrete floor in the barn right now!)

Any ideas? thanks.
 

SIKPUP

Registered User
Joined
May 16, 2005
Posts
120
Reaction score
13
Location
Spring City, Pa
My bushings on the pedals were worn ... if I had my foot pushing on the brake pedal at the same time I was pushing in the clutch pedal ... It would not go into gear with the truck running. If I just pushed in on the clutch pedal (not touching the brake pedal) it would go right in !! check the pedal assembly for worn bushings , that little bit of the shaft rocking will make it drag and not go into gear right .
 

DrCharles

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Posts
1,093
Reaction score
732
Location
West Plains, MO
OK, I'll take another close look before I pull the transmission (or pay to have it done!) but I have looked for this already, and do not see the shaft rocking or doing anything it shouldn't. Brake pedal doesn't make any difference, I've tried it with the parking brake set so I don't have to use it.

This problem developed rather quickly over a period of just two or three days, after maybe an hour of short trips. One day I was driving like normal, the next time I was "crunching" gears more than the ZF's old synchros usually do, and the next time I went to drive the truck I couldn't get it into gear at all. That is why I suspected hydraulic cylinder problems instead of something mechanical like a pedal bushing crumbling. :dunno

Also, something is still dragging once the pedal is moved beyond the start of engagement. If the bushings were shot, wouldn't the height off the floor for engagement change too?
 

chillman88

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Posts
6,022
Reaction score
6,152
Location
Central NY
Are you sure the pushrod on the master cylinder is the same length as the old one? Are you sure the master cylinder is sitting flush against the firewall?
 

DrCharles

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Posts
1,093
Reaction score
732
Location
West Plains, MO
Yes to both. The new rod was perfectly lined up with the pin under the dash after installing the master and the slave.

The engagement/disengagement point is very clearly 2-3" from the floor. But there is still a little drag that doesn't go away when the pedal is pushed the rest of the way to the floor.

There's a thread on FTE from 2012 with similar issues. One had a throwout bearing come out in three pieces, and the other had a spring that had come loose and wedged between the PP and disc.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1187368-1993-f350-clutch-wont-disengage.html

Another thing I should mention is that the clutch has always had an odd "whirring" noise that would come and go between shifts. (Not with the pedal depressed which would have made me suspect the throwout bearing).

Anyway it's probably time for a LUK 07225 kit!
 

chillman88

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Posts
6,022
Reaction score
6,152
Location
Central NY
Eh, I was hoping it was simple lol. If you've had an odd noise maybe you're right though. Something that wanted you to deal with it and is starting to get ornery lol.
 

DrCharles

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Posts
1,093
Reaction score
732
Location
West Plains, MO
"Blessed is he who expects nothing, for he shall not be disappointed" LOL

I finally found the clutch fork movement figure here: http://www.dieselhub.com/trans/zf-5-speed.html and it's a minimum of 7/16". I was seeing that before I replaced the master/slave cylinders. Oh well... on removal the slave pushrod was damp with brake fluid anyway, and it'd been replaced at least once already.

Anyhow I ordered the 07225 set from Rock Auto for $278 shipped (that flywheel is heavy!) which is better than anywhere else online. Also a new rear main seal... it's seeping a little like every old IDI seems to, and never a better time to change it than with the trans and flywheel out.
 

Thewespaul

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,058
Location
Bulverde, Texas
Depress the clutch all the way and have someone hold it while you inspect the clutch fork closely. I’ve had them crack but only be visible when it’s pushing the clutch in. Other than that, issues gotta be inside the bellhousing
 

Shadetreemechanic

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Posts
1,826
Reaction score
343
Location
Monteagle, TN
For me that symptom was popped rivet on the clutch disc which caused the friction material to continuously drag on the flywheel.
Kit you ordered will fix that for sure.
 

DrCharles

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Posts
1,093
Reaction score
732
Location
West Plains, MO
Yep, that is my working hypothesis too! :cheers: Will be interesting to see at the autopsy.

Anyone know how many book hours it should take to replace my DMF and presumably worn out clutch setup with the Luk SMF kit? (And I'll have them do the rear main seal while in there since there'll never be better access)...
 
Last edited:

Trevtron

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2016
Posts
269
Reaction score
148
Location
Katy, Texas
That clutch fork pivot ball and clutch fork get worn down pretty bad too, something to keep in mind. A lot of folks don’t keep that pivot ball to clutch fork contact point greased and it gets gouged out pretty bad
 

DrCharles

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Posts
1,093
Reaction score
732
Location
West Plains, MO
A nearby small garage (they put rebuilt heads on last year and he's old enough to have some experience with IDI's) will do the R&R of the clutch, flywheel, pilot, rear main for $450 labor once my LUK kit gets here. Not too bad... still a minus-$750 Christmas present I hadn't budgeted for though :(

But I'm getting too old and tired for a wintertime driveway (or dirt floor barn) 4x4 trans removal. :rolleyes:
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,259
Posts
1,129,370
Members
24,084
Latest member
E Moeller

Staff online

Top