Non Motorcraft 7.3 GP Controllers?

HammerDown

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
2,158
Reaction score
80
Location
Glenolden Pa
Last night with Test-Light & Multi-Meter in hand went through all the diagnostic tests steps listed in my Haynes Diesel Manual, and all steps checked-out ok.
And I'm getting a decent GP burn on a dead-cold engine.

However, (and no visible fuel wetness around injectors/return lines etc) at the first morning dead-cold start it's acting like a GP is bad (a little rough-running for a second or two, you know that sign)...air intrusion acts the same as a bad GP or two.

So, thinking about replacing the Controller...any feedback on the GP Controllers offered on eBay/Amazon (made in USA)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/87-94-Ford...h=item35effa2cae:g:Q5sAAOSws2dafh8y:rk:3:pf:0
 

Cubey

Van dweller
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Posts
4,099
Reaction score
1,595
Location
USA
Does the relay click when you turn the key? It's very loud so you should be able to hear it. If not, try hitting it on top with something plastic or wood, as not to cross the terminals. The relay itself can be replaced without replacing the whole controller, which saves a lot of money.
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
I can’t recommend that controller. Mine went bad after a hand full of starts. Unfortunately I’d had it a year or so in the box so I was screwed. Ended up pulling the one off my spare motor.
 

nolson

Registered User
Joined
May 19, 2012
Posts
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Modesto, ca
I have that controller and so far it’s been fine.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Shadetreemechanic

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Posts
1,826
Reaction score
343
Location
Monteagle, TN
I have that controller as well. Had issues with the first one they sent, but the second one has been working fine for more than a year.
 

franklin2

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Posts
5,178
Reaction score
1,412
Location
Va
The controller's job is to control the glowplug burn time. If you are getting a decent burn, why suspect the controller?
 

Cubey

Van dweller
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Posts
4,099
Reaction score
1,595
Location
USA
Edit: got posted in the wrong thread somehow
 

HammerDown

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
2,158
Reaction score
80
Location
Glenolden Pa
The controller's job is to control the glowplug burn time. If you are getting a decent burn, why suspect the controller?
I was contemplating having a spare and if the aftermarket controllers were decent testing it on the truck.
 

HammerDown

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
2,158
Reaction score
80
Location
Glenolden Pa
Does the relay click when you turn the key? It's very loud so you should be able to hear it. If not, try hitting it on top with something plastic or wood, as not to cross the terminals. The relay itself can be replaced without replacing the whole controller, which saves a lot of money.
Yes, I hear the "click"...and as mentioned prior every test in the book tested to be OK.
 

Cubey

Van dweller
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Posts
4,099
Reaction score
1,595
Location
USA
The relay is more likely to quit than the controller. I finally changed mine the other day. It just bolts on the controller in the 7.3 style setup. Super easy. I put my manual push button wire back in place of the controller since I do a lot of short trips. Once warmed up, it doesn't need glow plugs at all. Saves the plugs and reduces strain on the batteries.
 

chris142

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Posts
3,007
Reaction score
353
Location
SoCal
Mine has an echlin controller. It was on the truck when I bought it back in 12. Been fine.
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,310
Reaction score
11,020
Location
edmond, ks
I put my manual push button wire back in place of the controller since I do a lot of short trips. Once warmed up, it doesn't need glow plugs at all. Saves the plugs and reduces strain on the batteries.
I had a guy tell me one time that if you start your engine, even warm and the controller still cycles the glow plugs, it will put too much heat into the glow plugs and burn them out quicker. I've only heard that once and I have no idea if it's true or not. To me, it's just one more reason to have a manual set up. No, they aren't for everyone, but it's better than the 6.9 style glow plug system that I have in my truck.
 

Cubey

Van dweller
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Posts
4,099
Reaction score
1,595
Location
USA
I had a guy tell me one time that if you start your engine, even warm and the controller still cycles the glow plugs, it will put too much heat into the glow plugs and burn them out quicker. I've only heard that once and I have no idea if it's true or not. To me, it's just one more reason to have a manual set up. No, they aren't for everyone, but it's better than the 6.9 style glow plug system that I have in my truck.

Even at 100 degrees engine temp, according to my electric temp gauge, it fires right up without glow plug assistant. With the controller, it's rare that they don't come on despite it being 160 degrees. 90% of the time, I don't need them. Typically once a day is all. I don't know what the cutoff is but it must be 190+. It has to be a warm day and not shut off long or the controller still wants to run the plugs. What a waste!
 

Cubey

Van dweller
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Posts
4,099
Reaction score
1,595
Location
USA
I would imagine it's easy to put a 7.3 style system. You just need an ignition switched power source, a ground from your manual button, a power lead to your batteries, and a power lead to your glow plugs. Its a 4 post solenoid and that's the 4 connections. The controller feeds off of power going to the solenoid. One going to the ignition switched power source, and the other being the ground, which you disconnect for a manual switch setup. WTS is the only thing the controller gets separately.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,261
Posts
1,129,445
Members
24,089
Latest member
Larrymac

Staff online

Top