Decided it's time to finally redo the bloody return line setup (late 93 n/a 7.3idi) in a e350 van. All stock setup with what I belive is the original IP and set of injectors has 128k miles and was a state owned farm vehicle in CT. Has some new parts here and there but the fuel system appeared untouched. Well in my removal of the ip and lines(did it as an assembly without removing any lines from rear of pump) I found a broken part on the throttle area of the pump and noticed it had been j/b welded at the rear most lower fitting for the return. What adaptation can I use to do away with that return setup and change it to barbed fittings. And then what is this part I found in shambles attached to the side (round cylinder with 2 pin connector melted off the back dangling on left side of ip)
IP PROBLEM
- Thread starter Vanlife
- Start date
gandalf
Senior Member
Could you get us some pictures? They certainly would help.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
High idle solenoid.
Yup, high idle solenoid. It pushes the throttle open a little past idle to help warm up the engine when cold. Not essential. My F250 has never had a functional HIS. My F350 does. I warm the engine with my right foot on the F250 driving to and from work. 
Not really a great answer for the return line caps. There is a guy who sells a return rail to replace the caps, but I personally would purchase from his business.
Replace the old return caps and lines and new Viton O-rings on the injectors and you should be good for a long time.
Heath
Not really a great answer for the return line caps. There is a guy who sells a return rail to replace the caps, but I personally would purchase from his business.
Replace the old return caps and lines and new Viton O-rings on the injectors and you should be good for a long time.
Heath
Last edited:
robw
Full Access Member
Yup, high idle solenoid. It pushes the throttle open a little past idle to help warm up the engine when cold. Not essential. My F250 has never had a functional HIS. My F350 does. I warm the engine with my right foot on the F250 driving to and from work.
Not really a great answer for the return line caps. There is a guy who sells a return rail to replace the caps, but I personally would purchase from his business.
Replace the old return caps and lines with new Viton O-rings on the injectors and you should be good for a long time.
Heath
Why wouldn't you purchase R&D stuff?
I generally disconnect high idle, its only purpose for me is the bracket which pulls the throttle back to idle.
If your engine is in good shape; injection pump, injectors, glow plugs, relay, batteries and leads then your truck will just start right up, period.
If your truck has issues starting, then it's not maintained properly - including running rough when cold.
robw
Full Access Member
That's not citation.
Spill the beans, please.
Spill the beans, please.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Maybe Heath was one of the people who had issues with Justin's attitude while he was on here. It was before my time on here so I only have an idea of what happened and it's not to really be brought up in detail is my understanding.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Could easily do a search.....
Otherwise, keep it on topic.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Personally, I do like the guy - He's definitely matured compared to the posts I saw from years back, but...
I don't think the return rails are a good idea. The plastic caps work just fine, and are more than 'good enough'. Just use high-temp wheel bearing grease on the O-rings and inside of each cap when you replace them, and it'll pretty much prevent leaks.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The pictured item is the fast idle solenoid. At best they were marginal from the factory.Read the notes about cold starts on the drivers side sun visor. It clearly tells us to press down on the throttle peddle before cranking engine. Reason for this is the solenoid is not strong enough to open the throttle for the fast idle. Another not well known fact about our idi engines is we are SUPPOSED to turn the key to the on position and leave it there for something like 6 or 7 minutes. Then shut off the key and turn it back on. Watch the wait to start light go out. then start engine. Reason for the 6 or 7 minute wait is to allow the filter fuel heater enough time to warm up the fuel. Nobody does this wait time...Engineers had some serious issues back then..
genscripter
Full Access Member
People are still sour about a little conversation 7 years ago on the internet. They need to get over themselves. Dwelling over distant squabbles is a sign of infancy, not maturity. I personally buy from R&D a lot for my 7.3 IDI Van and his products are great and customer service is the best. We've had our differences, but I move on and be reasonable. It's time to lift Justin's OB ban.
I agree with the let the past stay in the past, and move on.
But, as stated before, the ban stays. DO NOT mention it again. Site policies are not going to be changed.
Back on topic or this thread will be closed.
