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jeepj667

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Finally got the pump off and shipped to Justin. Been slowly working on the bed and front clip swap. I got a new CHRA for the turbo. Took the turbo off today, had to lift the body to get it out.
With my fuel leak problem I've noticed my valley pan doesn't drain. Now that the turbo is off I investigated why. There was 1/2 in of mud and grime I had to scrape off the back of the pan and found a 3/8drive plug in the pan. I thought that was supposed to be open to drain?
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snicklas

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The 3/8 square is hollow through that plug. It screws in to hold the valley pan down, but is also hollow to allow the valley pan to drain. Just know, anything that does drain from that plug, will run down and drip off the passenger side by the starter. Many have been fooled that the head or pan is leaking, when it's actually something from the top of the engine.

Use something and push/clean the stuff stuck in that 3/8 square hole......
 

jeepj667

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Could probably give it a shot of air as well.

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Unfortunately my compressor is at the cabin so I'm stuck with hand tools.

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genscripter

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When I got my free-ish 6.9, I used a shop vac to suck up a load of gunk and icky stuff in the valley pan. I think we found 2 mouse skeletons in that mess. Ugh.
 

jeepj667

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Ok, I've got the bed off and am replacing both fuel sender's with new ones purchased from Trexauto.
Question I have is, should I use the new showerheads that came with the sender's or get some fuel hose?
I've removed the front sender so far and the shower head is missing in the tank somewhere.
These new showerheads seem like a rubbery plastic, they are fairly soft and not brittle at all. I'm tempted to use them. I worry about rubber hose braking down after time in fuel.
What is the consensus?

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Thewespaul

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Ive yet to have a trex auto showhead break, I wouldnt do hose if you already have new showerheads
 

jeepj667

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Should I put a clamp on the showerhead or just leave it as friction fit?
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