7.3 IDI Turbo Knock -> Engine Pull and Rebuild

MICHAEL MICHAUD

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Wow I did not realize what a ***** it is to replace front brake rotors and pads. Check this rotor out. Its pitted it one area. I bet it sat for a while and this part was under the pad. Replace it or can I get a few months out of it?

The rest of the rotor is normal. It rotates fine. There are tiny heat stress cracks. Cant get my nail in there and they arent near the edge. Theres no vibration or soft pedal or any noises associated with braking.

The drivers side rotor (opposite this one) and pads are in good condition. I just replaced rear drums and pads.

If its safe to drive I really dont want to replace them. Im ready to be done with the truck. I still have to time it and track down the oil leak.

Gonna replace trans, xfer case, and front and rear diff fluids before the long drive home and hopefully I wont have to mess with this thing for a few years lol. Maybe undercoat before the first snow.

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Thewespaul

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I’ve seen a lot worse, it will work fine the way it is but it will wear your new pads faster than if you replaced the rotors. I’d go ahead and replace them while you have it apart. Stoptech makes a slotted rotor that is a game changer for front braking
 

genscripter

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Should have been more generous when i had the motor on the deck.

Advice I give to anyone putting on the IDI oil pan. Be very liberal. You don't want to do it twice.

Hopefully gooping the threads and heads of the pan bolts will fix your issue. If not, then I don't see the harm in laying a bead along the leaking edge of the seal. Worst case scenario: You still have a leak. Just make sure to clean it thoroughly with parts cleaner to get every bit of grime and oil off the surface, and then hit it with a moderate sand paper so the RTV can stick to something. But in all reality, most surface RTV patches don't work, so it's a hail mary.

I used some of that oil UV dye. I had to use 2 bottles, and even then, it didn't really show up well with the black light. It was pretty subtle. I think these diesels turn the oil into black so quickly, that the dye gets overshadowed within a few big drives.
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

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Okay so changing out rear brake pads and drums made absolutely no difference. I think I need to adjust them out more because the parking brake isnt holding on a hill. But i mean this truck is hard to stop, even moving slowly. You really have to slam the brake pedal to come to a stop a gentle press does almost nothing and it stops like a train at speeds. I have two new calipers sent to advanced auto but I have not purchased them yet. Word of mouth a few people are telling me the proportioner valve is bad. Any input on this? I would really like to be able to stop. I can just throw parts at this thing all day but it would be nice to know what is wrong. Tomorrow I will bleed all 4 points starting from furthest from the master cylinder.

The pedal is firm. it comes back up regularly. the truck is just not getting good stopping power.
 

YJMike92

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Something to consider. If you put the new front pads on the old front rotors it will take some time for the pads to wear enough to conform to the rotor. You may not have much pad in contact with the rotor?
 

IDIBRONCO

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When I first got to messing around with the vacuum system on mine about 3 1/2 weeks ago, I finally installed a vacuum gauge. It would only make 11" while going down the highway. The brakes worked fine. The vacuum would drop to about 5 1/2" while using the brakes. I could let up on the pedal and then step right down on it again and the brakes worked, but they obviously didn't have as much power assist. This has been my experience with a vacuum gauge. For some reason, this evening, it was building 15" while going down the highway.
 

genscripter

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You have a vac leak or bad vac pump. You need a lot more vac for your brakes. Does your climate control work properly?
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

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I dont use the climate control havent had the truck running ling enough lol. I know the AC doesnt work. What accessories use vacuum? What should my vacuum pump be putting out. Could it also be a bad brake booster if the vacuum pump is working properly?

I would have tried to get everything together to switch to hydroboost if I had more than 10 days till I moved. Im just now looking into it. Doesnt seem extremely clear to me. What year f450 am i looking for at the junk yard?
 
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laserjock

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You need 18-20 in hg on your vacuum system for it to work consistently according to Oldbull8.

Check your coffee can on the drivers side fender. It probably has a hole in it. To find a leak with a gauge just start at the pump and keep working toward the accessories until you find a big drop. The vacuum T can break or you may just have a bunch of cracked hose.
 

MICHAEL MICHAUD

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Right on thanks. Any belp with the appropriate f450 years for the hydro boost mod would be very helpful.

Bonus. Oil leak found. I used 2 bottles of UV dye from oreillys and its extremely visible under a black light. To get the most out of each small bottle after adding at the timing cover i filled the little bottles with oil and shook them around and poured that in as well.

Ill de grease sand and pack some ultra gray in and around there. Also it turns out diesel glows like crazy, either that or the water diesel kleen water removal stuff glows. Guy I bought the truck from said he never used the rear tank so I treated it and it works great.

I know the diesel glows because it turns out one of the plastic pieces on my #2 injector is leaking a little. Neat stuff.
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laserjock

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On the hydroboost, the easiest swap is an f-superduty of the same year range. This is mainly due to the brake pedal. I think all the units and pump parts etc. are basically the same up to 96-97 but it’s easiest to swap the whole pedal cluster. Second easiest is to find the correct pedal and swap it in to your pedal box. The pedal boxes are not interchangeable between years. Hydroboost brake pedal relocates the pin about 3/4” higher.
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