Simmonscoating
Full Access Member
Thanks Mel, Wisdom is key...
DB2 Tuning Guide
- Thread starter Thewespaul
- Start date
YJMike92
Full Access Member
Good information.
I'm planning on selling my Powerstroke and running my IDI truck from now on so all this information is very helpful to me.
I'm planning on selling my Powerstroke and running my IDI truck from now on so all this information is very helpful to me.
Kevo1288
Full Access Member
I am running a 94 idi-t and thinking about doing the fitting mod while I have my truck in limbo for other repairs. I just don't want to damage anything, so Mel is saying its bad?
Well, I really don’t want to start an internet controversy but I think Mel maybe misunderstood my goal or what I was trying to accomplish with that particular mod. I really wish he had time to respond, but I disagree with just wiring the cold advance on all the time as being an equivalent to removing the ball from the fitting. When you energize the coil to move the ball which drops the housing pressure, the coil makes heat and will heat up the fuel. My goal with the mod is to have less restriction for fuel flow out of the housing so it can carry heat out of the pump, without using electronics which heats the fuel. If you want it to do the mod but be able to return it to stock then just pull the whole fitting out and replace it with a straight through barbed fitting. If you don’t like it, put the old fitting back in.
Kevo1288
Full Access Member
That's what I planned on anyways Wes , I think its a good idea and it makes sense. I spent 7 years of my life working on industrial valves used in paper mills, powerplants, etc.... we saw affects of heat through restriction when customers would "throttle" these giant valves and it wasn't good. Ill be replacing the whole fitting.
Not to continue to bug you but previous owner says he turned the pump up "two flats" is there any way to reference stock? Id like to turn it back to stock and go from there. Its the only "mod" that was done thus far.
Not to continue to bug you but previous owner says he turned the pump up "two flats" is there any way to reference stock? Id like to turn it back to stock and go from there. Its the only "mod" that was done thus far.
No I’m happy to help, if it was turned two flats you can go back two flats and be pretty close theoretically. The flats are referring to each side of an Allen, so two flats would be about 120*
Kevo1288
Full Access Member
Ill try that, I am just concerned with his adjustment not being so accurate. I guess we will see. I really need a PYRO!
Kevo1288
Full Access Member
Wes sorry for the silly question but I am at work and going to hardware store on way home. What size straight through fitting should I get for this mod?
I want to say it was a -4 orb? I’ve got a few fittings here that I bought as spares to use but I don’t have the bag they came in to confirm. Your best bet is to take the fitting into a hydraulic supply and they will do the guess work for ya
TheWesPaul, what pressure did you need to make it work when you opened up the flow in the pump housing return fitting? Did you just turn your adjustable lift pump pressure up until the engine ran smooth? What was it like when the pressure wasn't dialed in correctly?
Kevo1288
Full Access Member
I run 5-6 psi, I’m testing a few other pump mods and I’m running a bit higher now, but 5-6 is what these pumps are calibrated for on a test bench so ideally that’s where you want to have them.
Kevo1288
Full Access Member
Ive had a lot of fuel delivery issues with the facets. They seem good enough for stock but run out of gph fast. I run a 105 gph pump and I’m just at it’s limit. It’s crucial to be able to monitor fuel pressure when driving to make sure you aren’t having pressure drop. You can rig up a cheap oil pressure gauge to monitor it for your initial setup so you know it’s good.
