Drum brakes dragging need help. Stuck on road.

Dirtleg

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So the excitement of the Moose install was almost immediately squashed but my rear brakes dragging.

Stopped at a light and saw the smike rolling off the rears. Truck was feeling a little sluggish and temps were high. Coolabr, trans and EGT. I was thinking maybe the moose is just too much fuel for my turbo but I don't remember it being that way before. So dragging brakes it is.

I know it's related to the ABS valve being jacked up.

Anyone have a quick fix that'll get me home.

Thinking if I unplug the ABS valve that might do it.

Thoughts?
 

Clb

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Crack the bleeder slightly to release the shoes or back off the adjuster??
 

Black dawg

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I think you have to crack the line loose after the rabs valve , to let the pressure go. As long as you are easy on the brakes, it will get you home that way. Usually repeated hard stops will get the rabs valve to hold pressure like that.
 

Dirtleg

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Well what I did was unplug the RABS valve, bled the pressure off the rear brakes and babied it the 40 miles home.

Had to make several hard stops (luck with the lights in a 55 zone) and as I neared the house they were smoking again.

So now the troubleshooting on that begins. I love this truck but here lately it's been acting a fool.

I know the easy fix is to delete the RABS but I'm not into easy so it's going to get fixed. I just like everything on the truck to work. All that's left is the RABS and the cruise at this point.
 

YJMike92

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Another problem these trucks suffer from is sticking or seized parking brake cables. Ford had a service bulletin about rerouting the cables. I had to replace and reroute the cables on both of my trucks.
 

catbird7

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Another possibility, shoes will also stick to the drums if there contamination like brake fluid leak or gear lube leak. Pull the drums and hose everything down with brake cleaner, reassemble and drive till it happens again. Recurrence would indicate a leak. Pull drums and look for the leak (wheel cylinder or an axle seal). Repair leak, clean drums, and replace shoes with new.
 

rempfer

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Another problem these trucks suffer from is sticking or seized parking brake cables. Ford had a service bulletin about rerouting the cables. I had to replace and reroute the cables on both of my trucks.

This doesn't address the RABS issue so I must apologize in advance, but YJMike92, I had to replace my left emergency brake cable and now my left rear brake hangs up after a stop. I am confident it's that cable. I would very much like to free up this brake. Return springs are all present and good, so it would seem it's got to be that brake cable.

Would you have that service bulletin or could you post the jist of it?
 

YJMike92

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Rear Parking Brake Cable - Binds/Vibration/Shudder

REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLE - BINDS/VIBRATION/SHUDDER
Article No.
98-5A-35

03/18/98

^ BRAKES - REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLE BINDS -
ALL LISTED VEHICLES BUILT BEFORE 8/20/96 -
ALL CHASSIS CAB VEHICLES ARE EXCLUDED

^ VIBRATION/SHUDDER FROM REAR - REAR
BRAKES DRAG DUE TO REAR PARKING BRAKE
CABLE BINDING - ALL LISTED VEHICLES BUILT
BEFORE 8/20/96 - ALL CHASSIS CAB VEHICLES
ARE EXCLUDED

LIGHT TRUCK:
1992-97 F-250, F-35O

ISSUE:
The rear parking brake cables may bind and not allow the rear brake shoes to return fully to the anchor pins after the parking brake is applied. This may result in early brake wear, rear brake vibration/shudder, rear brake noise, drift/pull condition and/or poor fuel economy. This may be caused by a tight bend in the parking brake cable at the left side rear spring bracket.

ACTION:
Reroute the parking brake cable and install a windlace on the left rear spring bracket to prevent chafing. This should reduce the possibility of the parking brake cable binding. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Relieve the tension on the system by having an assistant pull directly rearward on the intermediate or front parking brake cable and conduit. Using care not to damage the coating on the parking brake cable strand, insert a 4mm drill bit or equivalent into the hole provided in the parking brake control.

2. Raise the vehicle and remove the rear wheels and brake drums.

3. Disconnect the rear brake cables and conduit from the parking brake cable equalizer.

4. Compress the prongs which retain the parking brake cables and conduit shield to the parking brake cable bracket using a 1/2" 12-point box end wrench.

5. With the spring tension released, lift the parking brake cable and conduit out of the slot in the parking brake lever on both sides.

6. Slide the cable in and out to make sure it moves freely on each side. If any sticking and/or binding is evident, replace the parking brake cables. If there is no sticking and/or binding, proceed to Step 7.

7. Reroute the driver side cable in the following manner:


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a. It should be routed through the outside left of the butterfly clip, up through the spring hanger between the bracket and frame and to the top hole of the parking brake equalizer bracket (Figure 1).

b. Insert the rear portion of the parking brake cable and conduit through the slot in the parking brake lever at the left rear wheel.

c. Insert the front end of the parking brake cable and conduit through the top hole of the parking brake equalizer bracket until the prongs expand.

8. Reroute the passenger side cable in the following manner:

a. It should be routed through the inside right of the butterfly clip, under the spring hanger bracket and into the bottom hole of the parking brake equalizer bracket (Figure 1).

b. Insert the rear portion of the parking brake cable and conduit through the slot in the parking brake lever at the right rear wheel.

c. Insert the front end of the parking brake cable and conduit through the bottom hole of the parking brake equalizer bracket until the prongs expand.

9. Install a piece of Windlace (E8TZ-1353-A) to the top front edge of the spring hanger bracket where the left rear parking brake cable crosses over it.

NOTE:
WINDLACE MUST BE INSTALLED ON THE SPRING HANGER BRACKET, OTHERWISE CHAFING OF THE PARKING BRAKE CABLE COULD OCCUR.

10. Reinstall the rear brake drums, wheels and readjust the rear parking brake as outlined in the appropriate F-Series Service Manual, Section 06-02.

11. Remove the drill bit or equivalent which was inserted in the parking brake control to take up cable slack.

12. Operate the parking brake three (3) times to verify it is operating correctly.

PART NUMBER PART NAME E8TZ-1353-A Windlace

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 96-24-12
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 985A35A Reroute Parking Brake 1.0 Hr. Cables
 

YJMike92

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Well that is the text of the bulletin, but the picture didn't copy and paste like I had hoped. I'll try to post that for you tomorrow when I get to the shop. The picture is the most important part.
 

YJMike92

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Here is the picture that goes with the bulletin.
The service information provider sure didn't want that picture shared, but I got it.

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Thewespaul

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Interesting. I’ve seen no documentation for this anywhere and seen very few trucks routed this way. Thanks for sharing
 

SIKPUP

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My 93 had an issue with the backing plates getting grooved where the shoes ride ! (lube washed out)
the shoes would go past the worn ridge and get caught locked against the drum and not release..
I had to weld the backing plate and grind it smooth and keep it lubed ! Just a thought ?? It took some time to find because by the time you would get the drum off the shoes covered it back up !!
 

YJMike92

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Interesting. I’ve seen no documentation for this anywhere and seen very few trucks routed this way. Thanks for sharing
Ran across that several years ago while investigating premature brake wear on my 94. I was reminded of it when I bought this 93. Barely worn linings on the right side metal to metal on the left.
 
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