Fuel leak fixed. Couple other questions now 1983 6.9

Team Dirt

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Hi all I bought this old truck to build into a bush truck snowmobile hauler. I like the simplicity of these engines that’s why I picked this truck. I put in new glow plugs already which sucked as the ends were swelled but got them with my slide hammer and vise grips. I have a small fuel leak on the fitting from the filter to the injection pump. Is there supposed to be a seal on that line? Currently there’s nothing and the nut seams to thread on till it bottoms out. Also it’s hard starting after sitting a while and the throttle is very slow to respond. I’m sure it’s all due to this leak. I’ve attached a picture of the fitting for reference. Thanks in advance for any advise. Totally new to these engines.
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genscripter

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Hi all I bought this old truck to build into a bush truck snowmobile hauler. I like the simplicity of these engines that’s why I picked this truck.



Nice you like IDI's. If you want your truck even simpler and easier to work on, replace that leaking error-prone line with a rubber diesel-rate hose and regular brass fittings. Buy an R&D IDI Performance IP inlet elbow for the IP. No more fuel olive issues. http://www.idiperformance.com/store/p59/DB2_injection_pump_inlet_fittings.html
 

Team Dirt

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Will check that out for sure. This truck is going into my cabin in BC and that’s where it will live out it’s days. I’m so far away from anywhere I wanted the simplest truck out there. It has an aftermarket tach I need to get working and a temp gauge which I found the broken sender wire already. Other than that it seems solid. Not even that rusted out. Throw out bearing is squealing so that will be getting fixed anything else a guy should look at before it goes to the bush?
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jwalterus

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Nice you like IDI's. If you want your truck even simpler and easier to work on, replace that leaking error-prone line with a rubber diesel-rate hose and regular brass fittings. Buy an R&D IDI Performance IP inlet elbow for the IP. No more fuel olive issues. http://www.idiperformance.com/store/p59/DB2_injection_pump_inlet_fittings.html

Nice advertisement..... -Lame

Just replace the olive and let 'er buck.

There is a difference between "an advertisement" ... and buying a product, installing it, using it for tens of thousands of miles, and advocating for it. I don't own R&D IDI Performance. Ever since I installed my inlet elbow, I haven't had a IP-related leak ever.

Please revise your post.



ad·ver·tise·ment
ˈadvərˌtīzmənt,ədˈvərdizmənt/
noun


  1. a notice or announcement in a public medium promoting a product, service, or event or publicizing a job vacancy.
You need not be the owner or employee of, or even associated with, a company or product to be an advertiser for them.
As soon as you "advocate" for people to use the product, you are advertising it.

It's been revised, do you like it better?


'Tis better to be silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt. -Abraham Lincoln
 
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genscripter

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Nice advertisement..... -Lame

Just replace the olive and let 'er buck.



There is a difference between "an advertisement" ... and buying a product, installing it, using it for tens of thousands of miles, and advocating for it. I don't own R&D IDI Performance. Ever since I installed my inlet elbow, I haven't had a IP-related leak ever.

Please revise your post.
 

IDIBRONCO

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It's highly possible that the olive is still , just collapsed and stuck inside the nut. I've seen that a lot. They aren't much fun to remove from there, but they have to be. Another thing to do, since you're going to be MILES away from anywhere and using it in the winter, make real sure that the block heater works. It will bee more fun to replace now than when it's below freezing outside.
 

My1500DollarTruck

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The fuel seals (Olives) also come in IP installation kits. Just have to look around find a dealer. My IP came with them . As for removal, I guess I got lucky . I just pulled the line nuts back and cut them off with a screw drive chipped them away . They had gone from rubber to hard ABS :). popped right off . Put new ones on both ends of the fuel filter to IP supply line, tightened them up. no leaks .

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPjdxMOI1d0CFcplwQod5IQLew
 

Team Dirt

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I got my seals out. There was some left on both ends it not much and hard. Used a pick to get them out. New seals are in and it’s all good. Runs and starts way better now. As for the block heater there’s an inline circulating heater installed that works good. Also has a block heater but the circ heater works so good that I don’t think I will ever use a block heater. Truck is at a buddies mechanic shop getting throw out bearing replaced as I don’t have a hoist and didn’t want to drop tranny laying in a driveway. Going to replace clutch if it’s looking bad while tranny is out.

Another question on this engine. Would it be alright to run 0-40 synthetic in this engine or should I just stick to 15-40. I have pails of o-40 for some of my other Diesel engines but they are all new equipment so just not sure if the old engine would be ok.
 

Thewespaul

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A lot of guys up north go to 5-40 synthetic for the cold starts, it probably wouldn’t complain with a 0w oil, but I have no experience with that being I’m in Texas
 

Jason1377

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A lot of guys up north go to 5-40 synthetic for the cold starts, it probably wouldn’t complain with a 0w oil, but I have no experience with that being I’m in Texas


I live in Norteastern ar n was wondering the same thing about the 5-40 n 0w oil we haven't seen much of a actual winter with mass cold spells or snow, at a local co op the 5-40 is a few.bucks cheaper then 15-40 n do u need to change the oil sooner then 3 or 5k intervials
 

jwalterus

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15W-40 conventional year round for me.

If you go this route, your fuel system and starting system MUST be up to *****.
 
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