IP connector and a quick fuel leak question

renjaminfrankln

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What does this connector on the IP do? A google search and a review of a few tech threads did not answer. There is nothing hooked up to it.

I have an 89' 7.3 with banks turbo kit.

Also dealing with an air leak. One of the injectors is obviously leaking. It will leak down in the span of 10 minutes and run rough after start. Sitting overnight and its real tough to get going. The fuel heater is not leaking.

The previous owner did the return lines so I don't think i'm going to go in wholesale and replace all of them. Another injector or two might have a leak as well but it could just be this one. What is a safe solvent to clean these up with so I can figure out which are leaking? Hit it with a little carb clean? non-chlorinated brake cleaner?

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Macrobb

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The sensor is the throttle position sensor for a E4OD automatic transmission. If you have a stick, you don't need to care about it.

Injector return lines - O-rings are Viton, size code 111. Get a 50-pack for a couple $ off Amazon via Mcmaster-carr.
Use high temp wheel bearing grease when installing them - inside the caps and well-lube the O-rings. It works much better than any vasoline-type lube.
 

renjaminfrankln

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The sensor is the throttle position sensor for a E4OD automatic transmission. If you have a stick, you don't need to care about it.

Injector return lines - O-rings are Viton, size code 111. Get a 50-pack for a couple $ off Amazon via Mcmaster-carr.
Use high temp wheel bearing grease when installing them - inside the caps and well-lube the O-rings. It works much better than any vasoline-type lube.

Thanks. Its a ZF5!
 

renjaminfrankln

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More questions

On the Banks air filter housing, what is supposed to go in this empty hole? Smoke coming out of it after I run the truck.

Also, my throttle sits like this... I think I remember on my 6.9 it would rest on the little brass thing. This is hot, after driving around town awhile. I know there is a throttle/timing advance on the IP and want to make sure its functioning normally. It seems to idle fine (once it gets the air out of the system).

Thanks

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Thewespaul

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Filter minder goes in that hole iirc? And you can take a 1/4 wrench and turn the shaft to adjust the high idle.
 

renjaminfrankln

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Couldn’t find a manual for the old style Banks. Filter minder would make sense. What replacement filter should I get? Haven’t opened it up yet.

So when cold, that little brass thing opens up the throttle with the ignition on correct? I know you have to push the throttle in for it to work. I’ll check that it’s working right.

Another thing - tach does not work. Usually reads 0 but sometimes comes alive when driving and gives random readings. Previous owner thinks it might be the sensor on top of the engine front cover above the oil fill. Is there a quick way I can test that the sensor is bad? Throw a resistor on the two wires maybe?

Last, what is the best service manual to get for these. I’m going to have this truck for awhile.
 

Thewespaul

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Yes it pushes out lifts the throttle past idle, pull the sensor out and clean it. Check to make sure the wires aren’t broken or bare where they go into the sensor itself. If you have no change I would replace it, they are very common to go out. Buy a ford service manual, there’s plenty on eBay, make sure and get the seperate one for the electrical and vacuum systems.
 

Macrobb

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When hot, that probably won't touch the throttle. When cold, it should be, and should be pushing the throttle up to whatever a good high idle RPM is. Adjust as required.
 

renjaminfrankln

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Looks like I may be in for an Injection Pump.

I fixed the injector leak. New o-rings. All of the injectors are dry as a bone now. No leaks I can see on any of the lines all the way up from the block mounted fuel pump, any of the return lines etc... But it still has awful air intrusion... will cough and sputter after sitting for just 5 minutes. Let it sit overnight, and damn its hard to start. After fishing around with a light it appears the injection pump itself is leaking. At least from the throttle shaft.. maybe from other places as well.
 

Thewespaul

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I can walk you through a throttle shaft reseal, and supply a kit with all the parts to do it, but what I tell everyone that goes that route is it is really just a temporary fix. Even though you may fix all the external leaks, you’re bound to have more issues down the road because if one seal has had enough time to deteriorate, there’s a good chance others are not far behind.

I can sell you a pump, or conestoga, r&d or Russ can as well, I would recommend no one else.
 

renjaminfrankln

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Thanks. I pulled my old style banks hat off (what a PITA). Took another look at everything. No injector leaks visible.. or return lines. Some oil leaking from the banks system (from the CDR) so it was hard to get a look at everything. But it sure looks like there is a leak from the IP somewhere that is dripping down and ' cleaning' all that sludge off.

PM me a quote for a new IP if you will. 89' F250 with ZF5 and the old banks turbo.
 

renjaminfrankln

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One thing I noted when reading Mel’s article on IP replacement. The article specifies that the pump drive flange is held on with three 16 point 5/16” bolts.

Does he mean 12 point bolts?
 

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