I ended up going with the 4+4 wheel from riff raff and I'm really happy with it. I cant tell any difference in egt but I gained about 5psi and it spools alot faster but best of all it doesnt chuckle anymore.
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Check all the injector connectors I have seen a lot of ficm diagnosis turn out to be an injector connector or a rubbed harness. I believe the problem injectors are #7 and #8.
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That's a bummer. Probably why the last guy welded it. You might be able to get a small cut off wheel in there and carefully cut the nut in 2 and peel it out... If ur really good u might even be able to do it with a torch or plasma cutter worse case is u ruin it and u will need an axle.
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I hadn't thought about the ebpv delete but may as well do that while I'm there. I'm planning on replacing the up pipes while I'm there too cuz I'm not sure those have ever been done either. I already have a 4in exhaust, is there anything else I should do while I'm there?
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There is barely any play but the housing is leaking a little bit... That truck hasn't had stock tuning since the year it was made lol.
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I am about to pull the turbo on my late 99 because the pedestal o-rings are leaking and I decided to just rebuild the turbo while I'm there considering it has 400k on it and has never been touched. I also decided to upgrade my compressor wheel while I'm there to a ww2 but I found one that looks...
What kind of test light are you using? If it's an led light they will almost always test good when they are bad. You need a test light with a traditional bulb.
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If you are still having this problem you might check the turbo for residue. It can seep from the turbo but would burn off before it hit the ground.
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It will pull it fine but you wont be doing 70 up any steep hills. The standard transmission is more reliable than the automatic but the automatic is better for shifting on hills because you dont lose your turbo spool between shifts. The standard will also get you better fuel economy.
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Check the 5v reference for your crank sensor. Possible that you pinched a wire and shorting out the 5v its real easy to do how the harness is run on those engines
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If you take the old one to a tractor shop where they make hydraulic hoses you should be able to get a custom braided steel replacement pretty cheap.
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If it moves more than 1/4 inch in either direction there is something worn. Typically it is the spider gears that cause that but in rare cases could be the ring gear or incorrect shims.
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There are 3 screws on the top and a fuel line. It's pretty self explanatory to put back together but if u have questions just let me know. The governor flex ring is what comes apart and leaves those black specs in there. A rebuilt one should be made of a different material that is not as prone...
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