i do not have an extra cooler, but did install a deep, finned aluminum oil pan on the trans, Two extra quarts and the fins help a lot. 15 years in the mountains and no heat problems.
If the engine is a factory turbo, it is worth saving even if it has a hole in the block. The rods, crank, flywheel and other parts are special items and can be sold or traded in any number.
There are two answers.
(1) if you do not want to take things apart too much, there is the relay solution. Get a heavy duty relay and install a push button for the starter motor. First, turn the key to engage the bendix, then push the button. This system will fully engage the pinion on whatever...
Some years ago I made a replacement shower head out of aluminum but have since retired and do not have a shop to fabricate stuff any more. I know the bird mouth trick with just using hose, but was wondering if anyone still had a new (NOS) showerhead laying around. I figure it will last another...
There used to be a list of Ford and IH part numbers in the stickies for these trucks, but I have not been able to findit. I am specifically looking for the ignition actuator and rack for my 1985 F250 with tilt wheel. Dorman is supposed to have an actuator, but it looks like it is only for the...
I have a 1985 F250 with C6 and 3.54 rear end and stock tires (235/85 R16), but apparently wrong speedo drive gear. My speedo says 80 when I am going about 70, the differences are about 10% off all the way through the speeds. I guess the 4.11 gear somehow got on my drive cable, now I need to know...
You keep adding fluid? Finding no leaks? That usually means either: bad master seals (would not use lots of fluid) or bad power booster (it happens). If you continue to bleed and keep getting bubbles, there is a leak. Possibly in portioning valve, possibly elsewhere. Where is all the fluid going?
Seems like you are trying to do too much work to clean up the housing. I would get some lacquer thinner or paint thinner and an air siphon jet cleaner. Or even a bunch of brake cleaner spray. Pull the axles out and spray down the tubes to clean them, then spray around the carrier starting at the...
I bought my truck with 10 year old fuel in it, had no issues running it. That being said, it did live those years in the high desert in CA with low humidity, so no algae bloom (and probably no additives). Pump some out and look at it. If it looks clean and without much color, it is good to go.
Does the pedal pump up? Seems like you still need to bleed more. If bubbles come out at all, more bleeding is necessary. Unfamiliar with power bleeding, never had a problem with the old fashioned way.
A bad dream continues... The 7 lug wheel covers started in 1997 were still used as standard issue on Vans until at least 2014. Not sure if Ford was using them up or did not think anyone would notice. I did.
I was not sure, since only the block was the problem and he said he was going to use the "block" from the 250. Probably meant the entire engine. If that is the case, I would love to buy his rods, crank, flexplate and harmonic balancer.
Don't be alarmed if you install an aftermarket gage and find low pressure. The engines idle with about 7 psi and run with 30, if I remember correctly. The magic is that the oil pumps put out a LOT of volume, so high pressure is not necessary, perhaps even counterproductive.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.