Ok guys I just bought a 99 Dodge Ram 3500 with a 53 block no I know this block is prone to cracking. So when my block cracks I was thinking about taking a 6.7 short block and swapping the head and timing cover to make “ 6.7 vp44 “ but I was told the injector nozzles were different so my...
that actualy looks pretty normal every engine i have taken apart has had the flex plate or fly wheel chewed a little bit like that its just from the starter engaging and disengaging over the many starts it has
Well apparently the seal in between the third member and axle housing broke down and I didn’t catch it.... it ran out of oil and I didn’t realize till it was to late spider gear got hot enough that it’s not giving up the shaft I’m planning a Dana 60 swap in the future so last resort is to cut...
so im hearing a bunch of clunking and grinding from up front so i know i have some issues up their my next question can i pull that third member type pumpkin and pull the shafts and pop the u joints out of the far out side and put the out side splined shaft back in to keep dust out the lock outs...
https://cobratransmission.com/t19-synchro-bearing-gasket-and-seal-kit-50028006-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwnfLVBRCxARIsAPvl82Gc4MNt17JeQ-KAUmKZZG8UVA-WC669G0MYaLMKPaZ6nkWDt_TmLM8aApfmEALw_wcB
heres the rebuild kit i used on mine....... before i zf5 swaped
so im running around tearing my hair out with this engine.. just the other week i was pushing the truck and hooning around and i was able to reach 28 pounds of boost. now this week i put my foot to the floor to pass a car and all my gauge read was 7-8 pounds i checked the rubber ring in between...
My 1995 f250 has a slight vibration in the rear of the truck I’m confused as to it could be carrier bearing spins freely I’m supper confused? Any ideas
All right so I have a 100 gallon fuel tank that is going to be bolted to the bed of my truck so my next question is how would you guys route the plumbing into the tank of the truck ..... I have no selector valve
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