Cam install - without pulling the engine?

[The_Josh_Bear]

So I've wanted a torque cam for a long time, but my engine is basically healthy and I have no reason to pull it or really the desire/spare time/nice big shop, etc.

Can it be done without removing the engine? Anybody done it?

Probably just a dream but figured I'd ask with all the knowledgeable IDI'ers on here.

Thanks!
Joshua

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It may be possible, but you'd have to pull the radiator, A/C condensor, and anything else that's in the way such as the intercooler and possibly the grille. THIS is the reason that people like to change cams while he engine is already out.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

In my case my AC never worked and has been deleted and I regretfully do not have a CAC yet... radiator is easy I was more worried about keeping the lifters from falling down if'n I did end up doing it from the front.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You will need to remove the lifters. You can't remove the cam with the in the engine. The best way that I can describe it is like this. Look at your engine from the front of the injector pump cover to the very back of the engine. Your cam is almost that long. The cam would be maybe two inches shorter at most (at a guess). That is what you'll be pulling out with your engine installed. This is a lot like asking if you have to remove the engine to pull the oil pan off. No you don't absolutely have to, but it would be a lot easier.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Another thing to remember is that the cam has to come straight out until it comes out of the front cam bearing which is underneath the very front part of valley pan.

 

[Thewespaul]

Josh, you are going about this the wrong way. I would never cam an idi without pulling the heads and checking your piston to valve clearance. I believe Russ requires comp 910s to be installed in combination with the cam. You run a high risk of ruining a “healthy” engine as you say, but leaking headgaskets are a sign of an engine that’s been run hard, and overheated as mentioned previously. If you are set on putting a cam in it, then pull the engine and do it right. But I think you will find more of a performance improvement by adding an intercooler or a ww2.

 

[towcat]

Can a cam install be done while the motor is in-frame?
YES.
Is it a lot more work compared to pulling the motor?
YOU BETCHA.
I've done it both ways.
I'd rather pull the motor so I can re-seal the oil pan and re-do the rear main seal since I was already there.

 

[Macrobb]

Josh, you are going about this the wrong way. I would never cam an idi without pulling the heads and checking your piston to valve clearance. I believe Russ requires comp 910s to be installed in combination with the cam. You run a high risk of ruining a “healthy” engine as you say, but leaking headgaskets are a sign of an engine that’s been run hard, and overheated as mentioned previously. If you are set on putting a cam in it, then pull the engine and do it right. But I think you will find more of a performance improvement by adding an intercooler or a ww2.

I think you might be able to check valve-to-piston clearance with a feeler gage if you wanted to - using a solid lifter(no hydraulics to compress on you) and adjustable rod, adjust to 0 lash... then put a feeler gage between the valve stem and rocker. crank the engine over by hand and you ought to feel when the valve hits the top of the piston(with, say, a .030 shim under it). As long as you are moving the engine by hand, you shouldn't have issues with damage or anything...
Just an idea...


As far as physically swapping the cam with the engine in the vehicle, yes it's possible - with valve covers, intake, valley pan, IP, front cover removed. Oh, and you'll have to cut out the vertical support in the core support that's right at the front in the middle. Do that and with the grill and everything in the way removed, you can do it.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Can a cam install be done while the motor is in-frame?
YES.
Is it a lot more work compared to pulling the motor?
YOU BETCHA.
I've done it both ways.
I'd rather pull the motor so I can re-seal the oil pan and re-do the rear main seal since I was already there.

Sweet someone that's done it! Glad to hear your thoughts, towcat. Thanks!

And thanks to the rest of you for your knowledge. I'm not sure why some of you thought I was dead set on this...it was just a question. I'm in the middle of my busy season and cant so anything so drastic now anyways.

And I'd certainly RATHER do it right and pull the engine, just figured if there was a way why not find out?

So anywho I wont be going that way, but its certainly interesting to know it's possible and some have done it. And yes I want/need a charge air cooler badly... its probably next on the list.

 

[Chemgrad]

Why do you need to pull the oil pan to change the cam? Maybe it's because I'm typing on 3 hours sleep but I can't think of why that would be necessary. The IDI run roller lifters correct? I'm thinking about doing this someday but I have an extra engine that I was planning on using so it's already out and taking up room in my very crowded garage.

 

[79jasper]

Why do you need to pull the oil pan to change the cam? Maybe it's because I'm typing on 3 hours sleep but I can't think of why that would be necessary. The IDI run roller lifters correct? I'm thinking about doing this someday but I have an extra engine that I was planning on using so it's already out and taking up room in my very crowded garage.

Nobody said it had to be pulled.
It was said that it would be a good idea to reseal it and replace the rear main......

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Chemgrad]

Ok. Well that makes sense.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes. Our engines use roller lifters.