PSD Engine Warm Shut Off Issue: No Codes

greenskeeper

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Thanks for the input. I attached a scan in posting #5 of this thread, take a look and tell me if you think this supports your IPR vs. Pressure theory, or if there's another input(s) you think I should monitor and post.

Difficult to read the graph and know when the stall is occurring.

You need to get the truck running and log or watch the IPR duty cycle vs ICP pressures. If the truck stalls with the IPR maxed out (60% duty cycle) and the ICP falls flat (below 500 psi) then I'd bet the IPR is your problem. If you decide to replace buy OEM or INTERNATIONAL only.

kmanparts.com is a great source for low cost OEM parts.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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So I got a chance to do a little more testing on my truck today, it's about 55 degrees out and for whatever reason the symptoms are getting worse with the warmer climate. I got the truck to start and run for a few minutes and then it shut off while idling.

I did a Key On Engine Off test and I got a handful of codes: P0475, P1293, P1294

I am going to ignore the P0475 as my truck has the exhaust valve mod for jake brake use.

The P1293 and P1294 state that I have a high side open issue with the injectors, both banks. I bought a brand new IPR this week because I was going to swap this out even though I rebuilt the current one, but I am now starting to lean towards an IDM as I have heard that you can buzz test the injectors and still have a bad IDM, which is interesting.

Any thoughts? I have another ICP vs IPR vs Fuel PW if anybody wants to look at it.

Thanks
 

Thewespaul

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I would verify the harness first, usually those codes point to the conectors coming loose under the covers. First remove the connectors at the heads and at the IDM. With each wire in turn put a meter on both ends and read the resistance. You shouldn't see more then .2 Ohm but at the very least they should all be the same resistance. If it’s all the same then look at component failures, cheap stuff first ;Sweet
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Thanks, I did inspect everything when I had it apart to do the injector orings and they not only looked really good: the truck lit right up after I put it back together.

Thanks for the input and stay tuned: I'm really trying to fix this thing myself but I only have about another month before my life gets pretty crazy as I have a pending move coming :eek:
 

greenskeeper

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So I got a chance to do a little more testing on my truck today, it's about 55 degrees out and for whatever reason the symptoms are getting worse with the warmer climate. I got the truck to start and run for a few minutes and then it shut off while idling.

I did a Key On Engine Off test and I got a handful of codes: P0475, P1293, P1294

I am going to ignore the P0475 as my truck has the exhaust valve mod for jake brake use.

The P1293 and P1294 state that I have a high side open issue with the injectors, both banks. I bought a brand new IPR this week because I was going to swap this out even though I rebuilt the current one, but I am now starting to lean towards an IDM as I have heard that you can buzz test the injectors and still have a bad IDM, which is interesting.

Any thoughts? I have another ICP vs IPR vs Fuel PW if anybody wants to look at it.

Thanks

The fact that the truck starts and runs, even for a short time, means your IDM is fine.

Still sounds like an IPR heat soak issue, or a bad injector o-ring(s) leaking pressure when warm.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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The fact that the truck starts and runs, even for a short time, means your IDM is fine.

Still sounds like an IPR heat soak issue, or a bad injector o-ring(s) leaking pressure when warm.

The IPR could still be the culprit, but it didn't run very long today, only a minute or two before the engine shut off and gave me the two codes. It is interesting that I could start it giving it some throttle, but as soon as I let off it died. Whatever gremlin I am chasing, it's definitely getting worse.

I really, really don't think it's orings as the old ones were hardened but all there, and I just replaced them literally three months ago. I would also think I would get something on one bank or the other, not both.

I'd really like to swap out an IDM with a known good one, but in the mean time I'm going to go through the suggested wiring diagnosis.

Thanks again for the input.
 

clint bartels

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It really sounds fuel related to me. On a 7.3l fuel pressure spec if im not mistaken is 60psi~. If your at say 10psi or less it could run but not likely. It will more likely die or not run. If your fuel pressure is good (check it!!!) move on to electrical/ electric-mechanical (Ie. IPR ICP)

Thats just my 2 cents
 

79jasper

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It really sounds fuel related to me. On a 7.3l fuel pressure spec if im not mistaken is 60psi~. If your at say 10psi or less it could run but not likely. It will more likely die or not run. If your fuel pressure is good (check it!!!) move on to electrical/ electric-mechanical (Ie. IPR ICP)

Thats just my 2 cents
They will run with 0 pressure....

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

greenskeeper

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It is interesting that I could start it giving it some throttle, but as soon as I let off it died. Whatever gremlin I am chasing, it's definitely getting worse.

Does it sound like it is running on all 8 cylinders, or like 1 bank isn't firing?
 

lotzagoodstuff

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I'd like to thank TheWesPaul and 79Jasper for the insight on measuring the impedance of the injector circuits individually. I pulled the harness from the IDM today and all injector circuits measured 2.8-2.9 ohms, all open circuits measured open.

Didn't answer any more questions, but I am really leaning towards the IDM, so I'm gonna order a new (rebuilt) one. I will have a new IDM, new IPR and new CPS. I'm gonna change them one at a time but if I change all of those and still have no satisfaction, I guess I'll change the ICP. After that I'll send it to "a professional" as I'm running out of time with a pending move looming :eek:
 

lotzagoodstuff

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So I put a new IDM-120 in it as I heard this is a nice upgrade, seems to start easier cold but the stalling/restart problem persists after warm up. I purchased a new IPR, just trying to verify my thoughts as I'm a Forscan know-nothing, but it looks like the ICP continues to measure pressure falling when the IPR goes to 50% duty cycle, which would suggest that although the electronics is "commanding" more pressure, the actual valving on the IPR isn't making it happen.

Forscan info attached, thanks for any input, I believe I'm gonna throw a brand new motorcraft IPR at it, just want some input from folks more experienced than me.

Thanks
 

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  • Cold Idle and restarts 03312018.pdf
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IDIoit

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I would dead hed the hpop and jump the IPR to see if youre building hpop pressure
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Much thanks to Clint Bartells, witnessed my warm up issues, verified issues using his scanner/software, and swapped out my IPR and truck is now running tip top again.

Thanks again for all the input from the four corners of the forum world
 

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