Glow plug controller relocation

OldIron82

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Ok so my joy of final installing the turbo today was cut short when I realized you can't get the intake bolts out once the turbo is perched above it. I plan on making a relocation bracket or just buying R&D's bracket as I feel $30 is fair. So, I can just buy a new 6.9 controller and use the original harness but all the horror stories I heard about that I'll just deal with this ****show.

Is it true you must have both banks of the engine wired the same length so the resistance doesn't get the controller "confused" and underheat or overheat the plugs?

I used the older intake manifold that is not made/drilled and tapped for the controller in the back of the intake. I believe if I used the newer one that was off of the 87 ambulance 6.9 I could have mounted it in the back and used all the 7.3 wiring harness. Honestly though, I'm not too keen on having that controller buried way in the back anyway.

1. If I mount the GPC ( glow plug controller ) bracket over cylinder #5 like the banks sidewinder kit, does it matter how I run the wires, or just get 'em there whatever it takes?

2. Would it be advisable to make studs for the intake on cylinder #5 so I can fasten the GPC bracket with nuts as opposed to the bolts so I don't have to yank the turbo if it has to come off for whatever reason?

3. Has anyone mounted the GPC off the engine in some other location and just ran longer wires? If so, again must they be the same length?

4. If I decide to completely custom fabricate a harness is it true I can use the female bullet ends for a 6.0 Powerstroke?

I think I'm forgetting something but that's enough for now. Thanks for reading if you made it this far.

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laserjock

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I put my GP controller on the fender. I also used the 6.0 harness. I put an Anderson connector in the middle so I could leave the harness on the engine to pull it. Let me see what relevant pics I have.

Here’s the GP controller mount. Batteries are on the frame rail so I added a set of heavy posts up here as well for charging etc.

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Glow plug controller with Anderson type connector. I ran 2 lines (1 for each bank and its heavier wire than the 10 gauge stock.
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On the truck supply side I put in a 150 or 200 amp fuse (don’t remember which) to get rid of the fusible links.

Here are the 6.0 harnesses. I cut the plugs off and solder all the wires together on each side into a single wire. Then I ran the two heavy singles to the Anderson plug that mates to the one on the controller. The spacings are close but a little massaging to make it fit so it doesn’t pull itself off really is a good idea. You will probably also need to tighten up the connectors so the are snug on the bullets.

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Hope that helps.
 

OldIron82

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I put my GP controller on the fender. I also used the 6.0 harness. I put an Anderson connector in the middle so I could leave the harness on the engine to pull it. Let me see what relevant pics I have.

Here’s the GP controller mount. Batteries are on the frame rail so I added a set of heavy posts up here as well for charging etc.

You must be registered for see images attach



Glow plug controller with Anderson type connector. I ran 2 lines (1 for each bank and its heavier wire than the 10 gauge stock.
You must be registered for see images attach


On the truck supply side I put in a 150 or 200 amp fuse (don’t remember which) to get rid of the fusible links.

Here are the 6.0 harnesses. I cut the plugs off and solder all the wires together on each side into a single wire. Then I ran the two heavy singles to the Anderson plug that mates to the one on the controller. The spacings are close but a little massaging to make it fit so it doesn’t pull itself off really is a good idea. You will probably also need to tighten up the connectors so the are snug on the bullets.

You must be registered for see images attach


Hope that helps.
Awesome. Thanks!

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laserjock

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kent01

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I used a Ford starter solenoid mounted on the right fender. Made my own harness, equal legnth,
Used female bullet connectors,
Used a momentary toggle switch to activate. Works great.

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OldIron82

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Ok, I ordered that kit. Looks really nice and the connectors fit TIGHT to the bullets. Now, what your saying is you cut off this factory end plug and you ran one thick gauge wire through the loom and soldered it to each individual smaller wire correct? So completely remove the wire from the loom and then reinstall after all the soldering?

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laserjock

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Ok, I ordered that kit. Looks really nice and the connectors fit TIGHT to the bullets. Now, what your saying is you cut off this factory end plug and you ran one thick gauge wire through the loom and soldered it to each individual smaller wire correct? So completely remove the wire from the loom and then reinstall after all the soldering?

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No. I think that wire separator comes off. Clip the plug off and solder the wires together with at least #10 feed. If the separator doesn’t come off, clip behind it and pull the wires out of the loom a bit, solder, heat shrink etc and put the loom back.
 

OldIron82

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So in order to use the R&D glow plug controller bracket I have to do all this rewiring ?
No no, I just don't want to deal with my 30 year old brittle factory wiring harness. I'm starting over. The relocation bracket works with any two intake manifold bolts of your choosing, as long as there are no obstacles or components in the way. If you are adding a turbo and need to move the glow plug controller obviously a small amount of rewiring is necessary but no where near what I'm doing. I'm just doing this ONCE.

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mblaney

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I moved my GPC to the firewall. There is a pic in my "Turbo Tale" thread (link in my signature). I also rebuild the complete harness using fuse wire (basically wire with better insulation) and bullet connectors. Works perfect!

I will also add that I have been using an upgraded solenoid (White Rogers); I gave up on the crappy dealer or NAPA ones. It has been in use for at least five years with no trouble.
 

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