1990 F150 302/AOD Tranny

[USNENFTS]

My transmission was set up with 2 coolers, one in the radiator for the engine and the other was infront of the radiator. The one infront of the radiator was rusted out completely and had to be removed. The auto parts stores dont have anything for a replacement. My question to you all is do I need it? I DO NOT pull anything with this truck. I figured the cooler in the radiator should be enough but is it?

 

[snicklas]

If just the cooler itself rotted, I’d just get a universal aftermarket cooler and replace it.

 

[frankenwrench]

Origglys has the Hayden for around 30 to 50 depending on what size u want

 

[USNENFTS]

If just the cooler itself rotted, I’d just get a universal aftermarket cooler and replace it.

So you would replace it? Cause I just straight up removed it about a year ago. Now my tranny is acting up, not sure if its a seperate issue or related to me removing that second cooler. I want to say its the torque converter but not 100% sure. I was looking at getting a torque converter but not sure if I have a 31 or 35 spline.....

 

[snicklas]

So you would replace it? Cause I just straight up removed it about a year ago. Now my tranny is acting up, not sure if its a seperate issue or related to me removing that second cooler. I want to say its the torque converter but not 100% sure. I was looking at getting a torque converter but not sure if I have a 31 or 35 spline.....

Yes I would replace it. If the transmission is overheating it will do odd things. I had a fresh rebuild in a Crown Vic, I was sitting still, in gear, way too long. It got warm and shifted funny and shuttered until I got it cooled back down.

 

[USNENFTS]

Yes I would replace it. If the transmission is overheating it will do odd things. I had a fresh rebuild in a Crown Vic, I was sitting still, in gear, way too long. It got warm and shifted funny and shuttered until I got it cooled back down.

So i installed a cooler and no change, it still shutters while accelerating. Im gonna go after the torque converter next, if that doesnt do it then a rebuild it is haha. Do you know if its a 31 or 35 spline?

 

[snicklas]

No I don’t, sorry.

 

[hce]

So i installed a cooler and no change, it still shutters while accelerating. Im gonna go after the torque converter next, if that doesnt do it then a rebuild it is haha. Do you know if its a 31 or 35 spline?

If if is an AOD a torque convertor will not shudder, as there is no clutch in it. aod is locked up in 3 and fourth as they are driven off a shaft splined into the shell of the torque convertor. Actually 3rd is 75% driven off the locked up inner shaft and 25% off the turbine. Check the tv cable as misadjustment will make these act strange. When is it shuddering?

 

[79jasper]

Check the tv cable as misadjustment will make these act strange.

This. It may need adjustment.
Had a 81 f150 H.O. 5.0/AOD. Thing went from driving like crap, to feeling like it had a performance trans. Lol
Actually got the truck for free because of it. So my brother put long tube headers on it. Well in the process has disconnected the kickdown rod. Lol

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[pelky350]

My lockdown cable also made my trans act weird, it was stretched out with some play. Cheap as I was with my bronco I just used a zip tie to remove the slack in it. It wasn't shuttering but it would shift wayy to early for my 302 and bog down a lot

 

[hce]

I should have added cautions to setting the tv (throttle valve) cable.
but check the tv cable before doing anything else.
If it set to loose the transmission could fail.
to tight and shift points will be high, and when coming to a stop trans will not shift out of 3rd or 4th soon enough and since these gears are driven directly off the crank the engine will fight the brakes. Feels like you are being pushed.

Quick no tools trial by error procedure.
When the throttle is closed the slack on the cable should just be taken up.
There is usually a clip of some sort on the throttle body side to let the cable be adjusted.
Adjust back and forth to best performance, but never allow slack in the cable.

My preferred method is to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge attached to the tv port on the driverside of the transmission. Does not have to be a high quality guage. With throttle closed the tv pressure should be 0 with tension still on the cable. As soon as the cable is pulled, the tv pressure should move off zero. You can push the end cable stop crimp to the side to test this, it will act as a lever and pull the cable out ever so slightly.

Ford has a tool to pull the cable out set distance and then the pressure is set at 32 psi, but I find the above method a little better and ford even states the no tension and pressure at 0-5.

If shudder still persists change the transfluid and some dr tranny rx instant shudder fix.
If still shudders I would bet the direct clutch is failing.