Turbo install valley pan drain holes/firewall questions

saburai

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2016
Posts
2,201
Reaction score
983
Location
Bokeelia Florida/Catskill mountains NY
Hi Gang!
I've just about got all my parts together for the ATS turbo installation on my '90 7.3 E4od F-250. Upgraded turbo and and the balance of the kit is coming from typ4 Russ, he's been great to deal with even though he's super busy with work problems. Thanks Russ! I've got the Banks down pipe and a cat back Diamond Eye exhaust system waiting to go on as well as boost and pyrometer gauges and some 3/4" aluminized sleeving for cables and vacuum lines. I'm super pyched about the whole thing! Couple of questions, I looked around but I couldn't find any pictures. Does anyone have any pics of the valley pan holes that I have to poke? I'm assuming that I just poke around few 1/8-1/4" holes in the pans though the same hole that the CDR grommet is in... Next, you all posted some pictures of the clearancing necessary to fit the down pipe. I don't have access to a Porta power, so do I just use a 2" pipe or a 2x4? I'm assuming that I come in from the top and pry upward against the firewall levering off of the bellhousing area. Is that about right? Any other tips or anything else I'm missing? After I finish the installation, it's a road trip to Dieselcrawler's place to check the timing and finish up the exhaust system and soak up some expert advice.
Thanks All!
 

u2slow

bilge rat
Joined
May 8, 2007
Posts
1,830
Reaction score
820
Location
PNW
Having re&re'd a couple turbos on IDIs, a downpipe on a PSD, and a couple clutch jobs..... I would seriously look at a 2" body lift if I still owned one of these trucks.
 

Thewespaul

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,058
Location
Bulverde, Texas
A body lift makes it easy but you have plenty of room if you just replace the body bushings, they tend to get squashed down over time
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,323
Reaction score
11,042
Location
edmond, ks
All I ever did was use a punch tip on an air hammer. I would just make one hole straight down in the middle of the grommet. I'd guess that it would be about 3/8" in diameter. I never had any problems. I wouldn't use a drill. There would be WAY too many shavings falling down inside the engine.
 

saburai

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2016
Posts
2,201
Reaction score
983
Location
Bokeelia Florida/Catskill mountains NY
Thanks gents! Any input on the firewall massage technique? New cab mounts with a small spacer sounds good but I don't think I've got the time to get into that at the moment.
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,323
Reaction score
11,042
Location
edmond, ks
BFH! That's all I have used. If the pinch weld gives you trouble, I've used the chisel on my air hammer to make a couple of cuts in it. It bends easy after you talk to it right.
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,323
Reaction score
11,042
Location
edmond, ks
Maybe I didn't use the hammer with the engine in. I can't really remember any more to be honest. I haven't done this since at least 2001 and will do it to mine before the engine goes back in.
 

tbirdfiend281

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Posts
898
Reaction score
11
Location
Eldersburg/Sykesville, MD
I feel like I got my DP in without messing with the firewall? I think I fought it a bit though. I could be wrong, and maybe justbhave forgoten about my firewall abuse.

I never did anything with my turbo drain on my truck, I wonder if this hurt anything.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,281
Posts
1,129,766
Members
24,098
Latest member
William88
Top