Couple things

Turbo94idi

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So the other night on my way home from work all my lights for the speedo and gauges went out, along with the lights for climate control. The fuse looked fine and I was wondering where to look next. Could it be the switch? All other lights work fine. Will I need to pull the dash to go further?

Then today I just finished installing a baby moose and injectors from conestoga diesel. I was using the starter solenoid on the pass fender to get the air out and when I went to actually start it with the key I got nothing, not even a sound. Started immediately using the solenoid, and after a test drive it decided to start fine using the key when I tried it. Could that be a bad ground or maybe the ignition switch? All the lights came on as normal when it wouldn't crank.

Other than that I think my truck is happy, still need to get it timed but it seems to run good after ip and injectors.
 

IDIoit

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on the 8th gen, the headlight switch main power likes to melt,
dont know if OBS is the same or not.

theres a guy in santa clara that has the equipment to time it.
check the registry.

make sure you got a pyro on that bad boy.
pretty easy to cook it if youre not careful
 

riotwarrior

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Gotta ask..did you dis connet the lil trigger wire for remote starting and forgrt to put it back...never happened to me ever:rotflmao thats why I asked
 

Turbo94idi

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That reminds me when it first went out, I turned my lights on and off and they came back on for a second then back out for good. Headlights and running lights are ok. I bet it's that switch maybe I'll do the relay mod it seemed easy enough to make one for my duralift.

Also do these trucks have an acc setting on the ignition? Mine is a little sloppy probably needs a new switch but I don't get power on my stereo or anything until the glow plugs go on and my duralift starts. Is it bad for the electric pump to leave it on with the engine stopped?
 

79jasper

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on the 8th gen, the headlight switch main power likes to melt,
dont know if OBS is the same or not.

theres a guy in santa clara that has the equipment to time it.
check the registry.

make sure you got a pyro on that bad boy.
pretty easy to cook it if youre not careful
Obs is the same. Mine melted.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

texcl

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My brights were dimmer than lows. I replaced the multi-switch, ignition switch, light switch and the keyed ignition, they were all in bad shape and figured since I was in there might as well.I fixed the headlight switch last, the wires in the headlight switch were burnt. After I fixed it I was amazed at all the stuff that started working correctly, lol.
 

madpogue

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Taillights / parking lights work? Did you check the dash dimmer on the headlight switch?

ACC position is one click counter-clockwise turn of the key. See owner's manual.

Headlight switch and its connector are both weak points in all generations. Usually it's the headlights themselves that are affected, since the switch carries the full current of the lights (no relays). Even more of an issue if you have aftermarket bulbs that draw more current than stock. A headlight harness relay off-loads the main headlight current draww from the switch, reducing the risk of it (and the connector) being damaged.

Automatic or manual transmission?
 

Turbo94idi

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So today I looked at it and after turning the dimmer up fully, the lights started working again even when I turned it back down. Parking and taillights were fine. It's a manual.

Sounds like my ignition switch is messed up then because I don't have a functioning acc setting..

One other issue is when I was changing out glowplugs the other day I forgot to disconnect the batteries (dumb I know) and sparked something pretty good reaching for gp #8 with my wrench on the gpc. The wait to start light seems to stay on longer now, and the clicking it always did when the light goes out doesn't happen at all. Started quick last night after the new ip but it has been pretty hot out here I don't know if the engine really even needed the glow plugs.
 

madpogue

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Does the key turn to the ACC position, and you just don't get any accessories? Or is the key unable to click into that position? The problem may be in the cylinder or the rod that connects to the switch, not the switch itself.
 

texcl

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You can buy a motorcraft keyed ignition for $20 & the actual ignition switch for $13 at Rock auto, they are very simple to replace and should only take 20 minutes for both. Ideal change the light switch too as there's about a 80 percent chance you have some sort of burning in there, they are definitely a weak link, but a cheap fix at $20.
 

Turbo94idi

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It clicks into what I assume is the acc position but nothing turns on. And I meant the #7 glow plug I was reaching for when I sparked something..
 

madpogue

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You might try manually sliding the ignition switch into each position; you may have to disconnect the rod in order to do so. See what happens in each position.

For starting, have you checked the clutch switch? Have you tried bypassing it?
 

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