Timing problems

Sparky95

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I hit the turbo on #4. I could check the #2 at the 90° mark but I have to figure out why its jumping so much. The lift pump, IP, and injectors are all new. Haven't done a compression test but this wasn't a problem till I installed the new IP. I'm leaning towards the injector (or injectors) but I hate throwing parts at something trying to fix it. Once I can get a stable reading on another cylinder I should know what the issue is.
 

riotwarrior

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I hit the turbo on #4. I could check the #2 at the 90° mark but I have to figure out why its jumping so much. The lift pump, IP, and injectors are all new. Haven't done a compression test but this wasn't a problem till I installed the new IP. I'm leaning towards the injector (or injectors) but I hate throwing parts at something trying to fix it. Once I can get a stable reading on another cylinder I should know what the issue is.

Where did injectors and ip come from?

#2 is first cyl drivers side #4 second one back 6 is 3rd 8 is 4th or rear most cyl

1357 on pass side.

Hope that helps take some confusion out.

F A N

2 and 1
4 and 3
6 and 5
8 and 7

T R A N S M I S S I O N

kinda sorta hope this works lol

JM7.3CW
 

rustygold

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If you got them from advanced the are a carquest/bwd. They are remand by a-1 cardon. They do pressure test them to meet the minimum I think it's +or- 100 to 200 psi.



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Sparky95

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Where did injectors and ip come from?

#2 is first cyl drivers side #4 second one back 6 is 3rd 8 is 4th or rear most cyl

1357 on pass side.

Hope that helps take some confusion out.

F A N

2 and 1
4 and 3
6 and 5
8 and 7

T R A N S M I S S I O N

kinda sorta hope this works lol

JM7.3CW

....huh.... Oh wait. This is an international. Not a Ford :idiot: the pump came from Conestoga the injectors came from accurate diesel. I don't think it's air because the injection pump itself would be losing prime. This thing just takes forever to get started. It doesn't start or almost start then spin over forever. And it's not leaking fuel anywhere.
 

laserjock

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From the video, you are getting air in the fuel system.

This is an interesting thought. Could you have a random air leak somewhere that is causing the timing to jump around? It's the running out of fuel effect. Pump timing changes with pressure. If the fuel has air bubbles in it will screw with the internal pressure. I think most guys say the truck runs like a ***** ape as it's running out of fuel probably because the timing is advancing.

Sucking a little air from some place random could be an issue as far as getting a stable read.

Edit: Should have read farther. You guys were all over that.
 

rustygold

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Check the filter line to IP. It broke at the IP side but it didn't cause this just every now and then it wouldn't start.

But I can see air messing with the light by detecting fuel going buy it if there is air it has a gap of in the fuel there for random timing

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OLDBULL8

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I still haven't figured out what the heck an olive is.

An OLIVE is a SEAL, the 1st one is located on the hard line from the LP to Filter (at the filter) it's 3/8" ID, the other two are on the hard line from filter to IP, they are 5/16" ID. All three are about a 1/4" in length. They get very hard over time and once the line is disconnected or disturbed, you can bet they will let air in even tho fuel will not leak out. You can replace them with the proper size fuel rubber hose cut to that length.
 
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rustygold

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New line from ford was $35 here and it came with new olives

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rustygold

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It wouldn't hurt to do the clear line test and it's easy

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Sparky95

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An OLIVE is a SEAL, the 1st one is located in the hard line from the LP to Filter (at the filter) it's 3/8" ID, the other two are on the hard line from filter to IP, they are 5/16" ID. All three are about a 1/4" in length. They get very hard over time and once the line is disconnected or disturbed, you can bet they will let air in even tho fuel will not leak out. You can replace them with the proper size fuel rubber hose cut to that length.

How does that seal anything?
 

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