Need Help engine wont start after trying lots of things .

IDIoit

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a compression check should be done on a engine thats at operating temperature.
squirt a little oil in the holes and try it again.
were all 8 cylinders the same?
what you want to make sure of is that there all within 10% of eachother.
those rings have been washed down alot, i wouldnt be surprised if you smelt raw diesel in the oil.

i never run a compression check, i only do leak downs.
this is when you apply air pressure into a cylinder with the piston at bottom dead center and the valves closed.
you will hear air excaping either through the crank case, intake, or exhaust. IF there is an issue.

did you pull the cover and check the timing?
my bet is that the IP is junk.
like posted.
just because it has fuel does not mean its popping the injectors.
 

Carl bane

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a compression check should be done on a engine thats at operating temperature.
squirt a little oil in the holes and try it again.
were all 8 cylinders the same?
what you want to make sure of is that there all within 10% of eachother.
those rings have been washed down alot, i wouldnt be surprised if you smelt raw diesel in the oil.

i never run a compression check, i only do leak downs.
this is when you apply air pressure into a cylinder with the piston at bottom dead center and the valves closed.
you will hear air excaping either through the crank case, intake, or exhaust. IF there is an issue.

did you pull the cover and check the timing?
my bet is that the IP is junk.
like posted.
just because it has fuel does not mean its popping the injectors.

All of them was the same The engine has not run in years so I could not check it hot. I pulled all of the glow plugs . I do have oil in each hole now figured it might help it maybe the rings where dry. Please tell me again how to do the leak down test I will do that tomorrow and I am also putting new injectors in tomorrow just to be on safe side. After I do the leak down test I will check the injection pump timing and if that is correct I will try to get fuel to the injectors. I can not really say if it had good fuel to them or not . If it don't start I have a running 7.3 IDI can I use the injection pump off of that to test ? Can you tell me what to do as far as the leak down test . I will try that first . Thanks so much for your time . I am learning as I go along with these trucks . My roll back needs this engine bad its wore slap out uses a gallon of oil every 100 miles lol
 

Carl bane

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a compression check should be done on a engine thats at operating temperature.
squirt a little oil in the holes and try it again.
were all 8 cylinders the same?
what you want to make sure of is that there all within 10% of eachother.
those rings have been washed down alot, i wouldnt be surprised if you smelt raw diesel in the oil.

i never run a compression check, i only do leak downs.
this is when you apply air pressure into a cylinder with the piston at bottom dead center and the valves closed.
you will hear air excaping either through the crank case, intake, or exhaust. IF there is an issue.

did you pull the cover and check the timing?
my bet is that the IP is junk.
like posted.
just because it has fuel does not mean its popping the injectors.

I will check timing in the morning
Please tell me again how to do the leak down check what I need to do /NOT do
I do not know if the truck was getting any fuel at lines or not . I have worked on three of these trucks last few weeks all running together . I do know I was getting it to the pump . But I will check all of that tomorrow . I put oil in all of the glow plus holes over night don't know if that was a good thing or not but I figured it rings where dry might help .
All of the holes where the same So thst don't freak me out .
Do you think that is enough compression to start if I get fuel right on it ?
I also have new injectors for the truck figured I put them in sense I will have to adjust injection pump once its started anyways . Plus they been sitting for 4 years .

Comments / Help Welcomed
Remember I am still learning these trucks so I will try anything once lol
 

cpdenton

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Injection pumps will swap over no problem. They are all the same.

Good luck!
 

sjwelds

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Its a dumb question but I gotta ask. On the compression test you performed did you spin the engine at least 6-8 times per cylinder tested?? Or did you just turn it over once and read the pressure?

I know nothing really about compression testing except what I've read here. Just thought I'd ask....
 

Carl bane

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Its a dumb question but I gotta ask. On the compression test you performed did you spin the engine at least 6-8 times per cylinder tested?? Or did you just turn it over once and read the pressure?

I know nothing really about compression testing except what I've read here. Just thought I'd ask....

Spun the engine over about 6 -8 times read gauge . did it two more times same numbers . did that on each one .
 

david85

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Ok, this might be really off the wall so take it for what it is (a wild ass idea), but is it possible the camshaft is out of time or the lifters are not getting oil pressure???

Whats really strange here is hat all 8 holes are pushing only 200 PSI. That's too low sure, but why all the same?? What else could cause so all cylinders to have such low and yet, consistent pressure?

Carl, Just to double check - all 8 cylinders are consistently at 200 PSI, right?
 

IDIoit

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Ok, this might be really off the wall so take it for what it is (a wild ass idea), but is it possible the camshaft is out of time or the lifters are not getting oil pressure???

Whats really strange here is hat all 8 holes are pushing only 200 PSI. That's too low sure, but why all the same?? What else could cause so all cylinders to have such low and yet, consistent pressure?

Carl, Just to double check - all 8 cylinders are consistently at 200 PSI, right?

compression isnt just what the pistons push, it all has to do with cam also.

im not positive on what these engines should pump out on a comp test, but i do know that at a point on the compression stroke, if you got a valve starting to open, you will have loss of pressure.

a leak down test is very simple, you need 2 things, a leak down tester, and compressed air.
this is the tester.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CYLINDER-LE...hash=item4ad85e568a&item=321457641098&vxp=mtr
get one and read the directions. its better than you trying to remember the BS. i rattle off.

i still suspect timing.
do the injection gear housing cover first.
you may find that its off.
quite possible that cam timing may be off too.
if cam timing is off, i would do the leak down test. to make sure all valves seat.

if you still cant get it to fire, even when swapping IP's
i would advise a total break down of the front timing gear cover, and even the heads.
i tend to get over zealous tho.

just remember, a 6.9 IP is not ment for a turbo application.
they dont push as much fuel as a turbo IP.
it will work, but if it fires with the other IP, i would buy a proper IP.
 
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madpogue

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200 psi is nowhere near enough compression. Diesel-cycle combustion requires mid-300s, anyway. My rule of thumb with compression testing is to spin it until the gauge stops rising. May be 6-8 revs, may be 10. Uniformly low compression could well be cam timing. I would also suspect the gauge, and/or the procedure. Are the batteries strong, and is the starter cranking the engine fairly fast?

Hm, just had a thought, wrt. compression testing an IDI. I wonder if cranking the engine with the key, with the FSS connected, that introduces some fuel into the chamber, could that be confounding the results? Options would be do disconnect the FSS while testing, or turn the key OFF and crank the starter with a remote start switch on the relay.
 

Spun4Fun

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Leak down is the most accurate than Compression in this case since you testing compression on a cold Eng , I find it strange that all cylinder have equal PSI . If your Eng sat for 4 years that don't mean any thing .. Mine sat for 8 years and fired right up after we replaced the battery .



Again like Idiot said ..Get a leak down tester ( Auto zone rent tools and they should have it ) , Next would be the IP timing . You will conclude the internal health of your ENg and the timing by doing so you eliminate the guess work .


Here is a link to Leak down test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofSiTGeLXvc

Good luck
 
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IDIoit

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im more inclined to say that the cam timing is off.
since everyone that has pitched in saying 200 is way low.
all cylinders are the same. which would mean that the valve is opening pre mature.
if you dont wanna pull the timing gear cover just yet, remove all your rockers and give it another comp test.
WITH ALL OF THE GLOW PLUGS OUT
 

OLDBULL8

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I would bet it's way out of time.
First guy ran it for 4000 miles, then decided it needed a IP, installed another IP, removed gear, couldn't get it to start, sold it to 2nd guy saying it needed an IP, 2nd guy changed IP, will never start because 1st guy removed the timing gear. My .02 cents worth.

First thing to do is check the timing gear for proper location.

Sounds like your kinda Paranoid about checking the timing.
You can put a hundred IP's on it and check the compression a hundred times.
If you don't know where the timing is at, all the work you have done so far is Moot.
 

IDIoit

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Sounds like your kinda Paranoid about checking the timing.
You can put a hundred IP's on it and check the compression a hundred times.
If you don't know where the timing is at, all the work you have done so far is Moot.

X2345678
at a minimum, you should be pulling the IP gear housing cover.
its 2 fricken bolts! and a jump of the solenoid...
super easy!!!!!

if it was my truck, , id have the front cover off already and making sure all my marks are aligned.
it takes about an hour for tear down with air, and a good puller.

we can speculate this all day long for you.

read this thread....
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...water-pump/page2&highlight=reseal+front+cover
 
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riotwarrior

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To physically inspect the timing now that you have GP's out the engine should be easy to turn over by hand.

Put comp tester in # 1 hole...bump starter...if comp tester starts build pressure stop...check timing mark...bring that mark BY HAND to the TDC MARKS as indicated in my thread I previously posted.....nothing too hard so far right?

Now remove that lemon shaped cover on front of IP gear cover situated below oil fill. Inspect the IP position and compare the 3 bolts and dowel arangement to the photo Gary aka Icanfixall posted. If it is not exactly as Gary posted; then BY HAND turn over engine 360 degrees, align the TDC marks again and reinspect the IP bolts/dowel alignment.

This should produce a result that allows one to confirm timing is ON or OUT....

JM2CW

As for comp test ALL GP's must be out, engine must SPIN FAST, record FIRST comp stroke reading...and subsequent full pressure read.

I did a vid and thread on how I DO comp tests, take a look may help.

As for a leak down...yes it does tell more however buying one for this is not worth it IMHO, I have both comp and leakdown. Comp is a quick n dirty test gets me what I need to know meaning is there enough pressure to fire; leakdown will just tell me where that problem is.

Maybe one day I'll do a leakdown vid too ;Sweet:sly

If engine ran previously and IP and gear where removed something sounds OUT OF TIME...but maybe not..

no reason to only hit 200 PSI on each cyl... are you certain your gauge is functioning correctly?

Please provide detailed explanations to questions and the methods you use. don't make us ask you questions give more than you think we need to help you out.

Al
 
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