Hydrostop review? whats your oppinion?|||| Has anyone attempted to make there own?|||

[79jasper]

Not sure if this is with all of them. The one thing that I have noticed is if you are at a dead stop, and have your foot on the brake and trying to turn the wheel, power steering assist is minimal. My truck has been this way since day one. If I take my foot off the brake, power steering is normal. If I am rolling and steering and braking at the same time, its not an issue, but I only see this at a dead stop, with my foot on the brake, and turning the steering wheel. The best example I can think of, when I leave work, and I back out of the space in the parking garage, it can be tight, so you have to turn the wheel before you move. This is when I see it.... if I take my foot off the brake, it is not an issue..... I am just used to it.....

Is this "normal" or is mine just odd?

That's because these stock pumps are weak.
Is your 6.0 the same way?

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[LCAM-01XA]

I seem to recall that some people have gotten different pressure regulator springs (I want to say they pulled the regulator spring from a Lincoln pump) to give a higher pressure at the hydroboost unit, as well as easier power steering. However, I don't think that's necessary per se...the hydroboost trucks I've driven (with unmodified pumps) had plenty of stopping power, and I for one like a little bit of resistance in my steering wheel (and the wheel on hydroboost trucks feels the same as on vacuum brake trucks)...

The Lincoln spring in question had taller free-standing height than the truck one, same wire thickness tho, so in theory (F=k*x, more compression distance "x" results in higher force "F") it should produce higher line pressure... In reality if there was any difference back then it was not noticeable enough to remember its existence now, steering wheel certainly didn't feel that much easier to turn. Running Saginaw pump now, maxed out via simple external shim removal (not messing around with stacking washers under the internal spring, way too much potential for massive screw-up) should equal around 1450 psi pressure according to online sources, steering still not too light but at least she doesn't bounce off the relief valve anymore the moment the tires hit some resistance (deep two-track) to turning while stationary. Hydro pedal feel is about the same as the Lincoln-ized C2 pump, lighter but nothing worth writing home about.

Jasper, FWIW the F-Superduty C2 pumps should be around 1450psi, smaller trucks are 100 psi less. Doubt it makes a noticeable difference, and both are very comparable to a factory Saginaw pump. E-series Saginaw pump was around 1300 psi IIRC, easy to bump up to 1400-1450 if needed.

 

[79jasper]

Interesting.
Supposedly the Saginaw was an upgrade from the normal pump, and had heard the 6.0 pump is equal if not better than the Saginaw.
Oh and the 6.0 and Saginaw were both pulled from van apps. At least the thread I was reading.

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[LCAM-01XA]

Could be, can't know for sure without hooking up a gauge to the pressure lines. Of course it could be the numbers I read were simply wrong, it's the internet after all But I do know for a fact that the older Econoline Saginaw pumps are adjusted pretty low-pressure - 2 external shims IIRC, with no external shims being max factory-recommended pressure, and adding internal shims is just chancing it. With the C2s there's really no way of telling what's going on, as all is done via that one big spring. The valve said spring pushes on is actually stamped with a different letter based on application, I've seen "A" and "B" so far, possibly a "C", could be others as well. What exactly those mean, idk.

 

[riotwarrior]

When I removed the Hydro KIT as I call it from a SD truck, one thing that one has to do to get reserviour is remove fitting in pump, so removed the valves spring and piston from it and retained those parts for my kit.

Newer SD the non OBS style hood, have metric fittings IIRC.

The much newer 02 up...not sure on year have same mounting pattern for the MC as our old trucks do, which is a bonus but...BUT the firewall plate pattern is different...ugh..

I've played with mix n match and bottom line...get a complete setup inclusive of pedal from a SD truck of Brick or OBS and its a bolt in for any of our trucks...be it Brick, Bull or OBS front end.

All std brake pedals for vacuum from 84-97 are same! Thus swapping a pedal from a Hydro is a cakewalk upgrade for your Bull Brick or OBS

As for the Automatic pedals I cannot confirm the same holds true as I have no Autos for comparison purposes, It would be up to the person to determine fitment not me this time! Maybe someone will pull Auto pedal assemblies from Bull, Brick and OBS and compare those brake pedals and see if they are all same shape/pattern/pin position like a STD pedal is???? Anyone????

There are so So SO many threads on this subject its not funny here...

Just do the swap don't hodge podge together a kit, why re-invent a wheel when one exists that provides all you need?

JM3CW today!

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Just do the swap don't hodge podge together a kit, why re-invent a wheel when one exists that provides all you need?

yeah.i agree.just keep yours eyes open for deals/save up and bolt in the direct bolt ins.make her right and KISS.

 

[riotwarrior]

yeah.i agree.just keep yours eyes open for deals/save up and bolt in the direct bolt ins.make her right and KISS.

That...and the plus side...parts are available in case of failure/breakdown...find a custom built hose in middle of no where...

If you do build custom..build two, keep one for parts! double yer cost...complicate things that are simple and enjoy it!

Most of all be SAFE

 

[jay22day]

Just do the swap don't hodge podge together a kit, why re-invent a wheel when one exists that provides all you need?

yeah.i agree.just keep yours eyes open for deals/save up and bolt in the direct bolt ins.make her right and KISS.

i totaly agree and understand the standpoint but the newer style hydrostop assembly's seems more readily available on ebay and such. I cant seem to find a OEM kit/assembly for our years, i know there out there, but availability is everything.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i totaly agree and understand the standpoint but the newer style hydrostop assembly's seems more readily available on ebay and such. I cant seem to find a OEM kit/assembly for our years, i know there out there, but availability is everything.

i gather you mean used.just in case however your looking for new and can't find one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-BOOSTER-Ford-Truck-F350-E8TZ2005B-1995-/171036505289

this part number is all you need:
E8TZ-2005-B

pay no attention to incorrectly listed vehicle fitments.for example that one there.no f350 pre super duty era came with hydroboost brakes.only the f-super's/f450's did.

if your looking for a deal on a used one,then all ya can do is keep your eyes open there,here in the marketplace they pop up,and GL.

 

[fsmyth]

I have had both systems. The Vacuum boosted systems and Hydro boosted. When it cam to stopping it seamed like the hydro system could stop me faster as compared to the vacuum system. I would also get better feed back from the brake pedal with the hydro system as compared to the vacuum system. I plan on upgrading my system on my Dually to the hydro system when I have the funds.

Same here. And I agree completely with all of the above. That said, the '91 Ford still stops anything it can move, just takes longer. Be careful - when I jump out of the Ford and into the Dodge, my head usually hits the windshield
But neither one stops as good as the Chevy with air brakes.

 

[nj_m715]

That's because these stock pumps are weak.
Is your 6.0 the same way?

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Back in my jeep 'wheeling days a few guys increased the boost by shimming the spring with a few washers. Just remove the large nut on the pump where the high pressure line screws in to get to the spring. Add 2 washers and try it out. add more if it still feels week. Each washer added increases the bypass pressure. It worked like a charm for me but it can increase the fluid temp. I don't see it becoming a problem on the street but working 44's back and forth at low speed can build up heat fast.

 

[jay22day]

Back in my jeep 'wheeling days a few guys increased the boost by shimming the spring with a few washers. Just remove the large nut on the pump where the high pressure line screws in to get to the spring. Add 2 washers and try it out. add more if it still feels week. Each washer added increases the bypass pressure. It worked like a charm for me but it can increase the fluid temp. I don't see it becoming a problem on the street but working 44's back and forth at low speed can build up heat fast.

Im pretty sure ive read they do the same thing with the "tired" oil pumps/springs on these trucks

Thats a good point on the turbo gate shim!!! in my boosted thread i talk about how changing the spring pressure is a more reliable way than using a MBC.

 

[BrandonMag]

Moved to new thread.