Do i need a new ignition switch???

[Idiforlife]

I noticed that most pics of solenoid doesn't have a big wire going directly to the battery should I delete that one also.

Yes

 

[Idiforlife]

Could a bad Voltage regulator cause this ?

You lost power somewhere. Check all the connections.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[madpogue]

Could a bad Voltage regulator cause this ?

Not directly. Voltage regulator only affects charging. You could completely remove the regulator, and if the batteries and other connections are goo, you'd still have main power. One possibility, however, is a bad voltage regulator causing a severe parasitic draw, which would kill the batteries over time. So yeah, first thing to check is to see if the batteries have discharged.

As for that big wire from the battery to the relay, don't delete it. You may or may not need it. As mentioned above, for main power to the accessories, you have two possibilities:
1) Big wire from battery to GP relay hot terminal, sorta-big wire from GP relay hot terminal to starter relay hot terminal, fusible links for rest of truck from starter relay hot terminal to fuses/accessories
2) Big wire from battery to starter relay hot terminal, fusible links for rest of truck from starter relay hot terminal to fuses/accessories, wire/fuse-link from starter relay hot terminal to GP relay hot terminal

#1 is the original '83-'86 scheme. #2 is how the later trucks are wired. But it's possible your truck has at some time been re-wired like the later trucks (mine was). If you delete the wire from the battery to the starter relay (which would be the #2 scheme), and don't have a wire from the battery to the GP relay (#1 scheme), then you'd have no power to the truck.

But check that wire. At this point, check everything. Check for voltage at both battery positives, at the hot terminal of the starter relay, and the hot terminal of the GPR. Then check for voltage on the hot side of the fuse sockets in the fuse box. Of course, check main battery grounds and main battery terminal connections.

 

[Idiforlife]

Ok I will check while at work .Could a bad GP relay cause this?how do I test a relay that out of the truck? And how can I hot wire it if nothing works to get it home?

Not directly. Voltage regulator only affects charging. You could completely remove the regulator, and if the batteries and other connections are goo, you'd still have main power. One possibility, however, is a bad voltage regulator causing a severe parasitic draw, which would kill the batteries over time. So yeah, first thing to check is to see if the batteries have discharged.

As for that big wire from the battery to the relay, don't delete it. You may or may not need it. As mentioned above, for main power to the accessories, you have two possibilities:
1) Big wire from battery to GP relay hot terminal, sorta-big wire from GP relay hot terminal to starter relay hot terminal, fusible links for rest of truck from starter relay hot terminal to fuses/accessories
2) Big wire from battery to starter relay hot terminal, fusible links for rest of truck from starter relay hot terminal to fuses/accessories, wire/fuse-link from starter relay hot terminal to GP relay hot terminal

#1 is the original '83-'86 scheme. #2 is how the later trucks are wired. But it's possible your truck has at some time been re-wired like the later trucks (mine was). If you delete the wire from the battery to the starter relay (which would be the #2 scheme), and don't have a wire from the battery to the GP relay (#1 scheme), then you'd have no power to the truck.

But check that wire. At this point, check everything. Check for voltage at both battery positives, at the hot terminal of the starter relay, and the hot terminal of the GPR. Then check for voltage on the hot side of the fuse sockets in the fuse box. Of course, check main battery grounds and main battery terminal connections.

 

[opusd2]

I once lost power while driving. Turns out it was a yellowish connector on the passenger side inner fender that needed to be positively clicked.

 

[Idiforlife]

Thanks i will check that. any idea whats its function?

I once lost power while driving. Turns out it was a yellowish connector on the passenger side inner fender that needed to be positively clicked.

 

[Idiforlife]

Well at lunch i Went and volt tested batts both were 12.17 V same at hot side of starter relay nothing at the other side where the small wire goes to the starter. checked all the ground they were good and tight. When and turned the key and Power is back . Now it was 49 degree today dont know if that had anything to do with it.

 

[Idiforlife]

No power again went out this morning and truck has no light dash or other and no crank

 

[Idiforlife]

That was it Wiggled it and power was back.

I once lost power while driving. Turns out it was a yellowish connector on the passenger side inner fender that needed to be positively clicked.

 

[Idiforlife]

Problem Found not 100 percent fixed.This was causeing no crank, no power , no lights.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Connector need to be repaired or replaced. Does anyone know if the wires are released from the back where wire enters the connector or from the front where it plugs in to the other side.

 

[Idiforlife]

Is this just a simple connecter ?

You must be registered for see images attach

can i replace it with something like this temperately?

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[theguruat12]

Sure thing, go ahead. Those would definitely cause you to lose power, that little light green with red strip is the ignition-on power for the alternator voltage regulator, but more importantly that larger yellow wire is the main power feed for the fuse panel. Lose that and you lose power to the IP, engine no worky.

My truck doesn't have that connector, a PO removed it and crimped them directly together for some reason. I have since redone the connection, and being cheap as I am, I just used some good heat-shrink butt connectors. As long as you have good connectivity and the connector is properly sized to the wire (should be 16ga for the small and 10ga for the big), you're good to go.

 

[Idiforlife]

Thanks i think by it shorting out it killed the Voltage regulator or alternator because my batts aren't charging now. The yellow wire would make for a good kill switch.

Sure thing, go ahead. Those would definitely cause you to lose power, that little light green with red strip is the ignition-on power for the alternator voltage regulator, but more importantly that larger yellow wire is the main power feed for the fuse panel. Lose that and you lose power to the IP, engine no worky.

My truck doesn't have that connector, a PO removed it and crimped them directly together for some reason. I have since redone the connection, and being cheap as I am, I just used some good heat-shrink butt connectors. As long as you have good connectivity and the connector is properly sized to the wire (should be 16ga for the small and 10ga for the big), you're good to go.