Do i need a new ignition switch???

OLDBULL8

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He has the same relay as is in my '85, however mine has one of the small terminals unused (I believe it's a power for the distributor when cranking on a gasser).

Yeah I forgot about the relays for a gasser with that extra terminal. But he shouldn't have a wire connected there. Unless the PO rigged up something that needs power when cranking, can't imagine what for. His problem, could be the ignition switch is out of adjustment. Just told a guy yesterday on the TDS the procedure on how to adjust a new switch. I'll see if I can find it. My damn internet went down this morning right after I posted way above.
 

Idiforlife

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Thanks I replaced the Fender mount solenoid. And its started and shut off normally. But i am a bit confused,not confident this thing is wired right or i have the best part money can buy. I will post a pic of my wire connections soon. And if you guy can tell me what you think.only 2 wires coming off the side going to the starter one Direct and other to starter Solenoid. The other wire you see is starter Solenoid bodymount nut to my efuel pump ground wire.
 

madpogue

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There should NOT be a wire going from the relay to the main starter motor. That wire should come DIRECTLY from the battery.

Waaay back, when disco sucked and the roads were paved with oxen dung, Ford wired SOME of their vehicles with the relay powering both the solenoid and the motor. Not one of Ford's "Better Ideas". Esp. with a starter big enough to crank a diesel engine, you do NOT want that full current draw going through the relay.

Come to think of it, that was probably your problem. That extreme current flow for the starter motor probably had the effect of "welding" together the contacts in the contact circuit of your old relay, which is why it cranked constantly.
 

theguruat12

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There should NOT be a wire going from the relay to the main starter motor. That wire should come DIRECTLY from the battery.

Waaay back, when disco sucked and the roads were paved with oxen dung, Ford wired SOME of their vehicles with the relay powering both the solenoid and the motor. Not one of Ford's "Better Ideas". Esp. with a starter big enough to crank a diesel engine, you do NOT want that full current draw going through the relay.

Come to think of it, that was probably your problem. That extreme current flow for the starter motor probably had the effect of "welding" together the contacts in the contact circuit of your old relay, which is why it cranked constantly.

+1 The fender-mounted relay only controls the full starter current on the gassers I've seen. Our starters draw so much current that they need a heavier-duty secondary solenoid.
 

Idiforlife

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OK are you saying i don't need to the The 2 big power wires connected to the Starter solenoid? If so does it get a smaller wire direct from the Batt. ?

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Idiforlife

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So its looks as you have no wires directly from the Battery Connected to your Solenoid? Is the Pos + going direct to the Batt ? How is it getting Power ?
He has the same relay as is in my '85, however mine has one of the small terminals unused (I believe it's a power for the distributor when cranking on a gasser).

Some of them had those relays, it's a toss-up when I see our trucks in the yards. The earlier ones I believe had that style. They will work just fine, if connected correctly. And yes, they are internally grounded (If by internally grounded you mean grounded through their mounting bracket).

The second small wire in the OP's pic (the one closer to the firewall) should not be there, if it's the same setup that I have, which it should be, being the same year.

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You can't see it because of the big blue power wire, but on the second large relay terminal, there is a single approx. 12ga wire going to the solenoid on the starter.
 

madpogue

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Just so everyone's on the same page -- the SOLENOID is on the STARTER. The RELAY is on the FENDER. The parts store might call the relay a solenoid. They might as well call it a kumquat. It's still a relay.

From post #20, pic 1, if you only have the left-to-right cable and the cable to the relay on the passenger-side positive, that is indeed WRONG. You need a wire directly from the passenger battery positive to the starter MOTOR.

For power to the rest of the truck, you have two options. The original wiring has a wire going from the passenger side battery positive to the "always hot" terminal on the glow plug relay. Then that terminal acts as a junction; there's a wire going from that same terminal to the "always hot" terminal on the starter relay. That terminal, in turn, acts as ANOTHER junction; all the fusible link wires going to the fuse box and the truck's accessories are connected to that terminal.

Later trucks, the battery-to-GPR wire was replaced with a wire from the battery to the starter relay "always hot".

Gotta run now, but later, I can post scans of the EVTM from '85 and '95 to illustrate the two options. But the important thing is, you do NOT want to use the relay to energize the starter MOTOR. The relay energizes the SOLENOID. The starter MOTOR is powered directly from the battery. If you leave it as is, you will probably weld/solder this new relay in the "closed" position in short order, and will be right back to the engine constantly cranking.
 

Idiforlife

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Drove it to work was fine until the drive home . It stalled out as i was leaving. No power, no headlights, no dash lights. No clicks or cranking. Help
 

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