Do i need a new ignition switch???

Idiforlife

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The truck cranks when the Battery cable is touched to the battery doesn't matter if key is in or out of ignition, on or off position. Help
85 f350 6.9 . I don't have tilt Steering . Do i need a new Ignition switch?
 

G. Mann

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Disconnect the wire that comes from your ignition switch at the solenoid.

Then connect the battery cable for a moment. If it cranks, your solenoid has failed in the closed position.

While you have that wire disconnected, disconnect the wire that goes to the starter. It will be about a number 14 wire, comes off the 'cold side" of fender solenoid. Not the one that comes from the + side battery cable.

Hook up one of those electrical testers with a light, or use a test meter on the wire that comes from the key. Measure voltage with key on and then with key off..
If you have zero volts, key off, and 12 volts key on, [or test light stays off/key off, comes on/ key on] then switch is good.

You will need to reconnect the batteries to do this test, so you can have 12 volts go to the key. With the starter solenoid wire off, engine should not crank.

If engine does crank.. your starter has failed at the solenoid mounted on top of the starter.

The wire will be the small wire with the L shaped push on connector.. or could be small lug connector with a nut. The wire that goes to the solenoid on top of starter runs with the big red positive cable that goes to the same solenoid.. if that will help.

I think that should about cover testing what you have happening, and identifying what has failed..

Anybody else see something I've missed?
 
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Idiforlife

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Which one is the ignition switch? Thanks for your help.
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IDIoit

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g-man, almost perfect.

the very first thing i would check to see is if your starter wires are tight and cross touching.
i replaced the starter in my truck the first day, with a used one, just to see if i could get it cranking.
i installed it, put the battery cables on and BAM, this happened.
upon further investigation, the main positive terminal came in contact with the solenoid terminal... on the starter itself
readjusted wire tightened nut and ..done.
then the starter took a crap all together, but i was able to get it running. a bran new japanese unit was purchased and then i heard that rod knock...lol
 

Idiforlife

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Those connections are good thks. Any other suggestions appreciated.
g-man, almost perfect.

the very first thing i would check to see is if your starter wires are tight and cross touching.
i replaced the starter in my truck the first day, with a used one, just to see if i could get it cranking.
i installed it, put the battery cables on and BAM, this happened.
upon further investigation, the main positive terminal came in contact with the solenoid terminal... on the starter itself
readjusted wire tightened nut and ..done.
then the starter took a crap all together, but i was able to get it running. a bran new japanese unit was purchased and then i heard that rod knock...lol
 

direwulf23

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Your first picture is the starter relay/ solenoid. The second one is for your glow plug.
The ignition switch is what your key goes into.
^I was wrong about the last part.
 
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laserjock

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On the relay, pull the two small wires. That will let you do the test gman laid out for the most part. Remove the two small wires unless you can chase the correct one to the switch. If you touch your bat cable to the bat post and the starter takes of, the relay is welded shut. I'm not 100% but one of the small wires should be from the switch and 1 is probably ground.
 

OLDBULL8

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Which one is the ignition switch? Thanks for your help.
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Did you just install a NEW starter RELAY?
Ford has used an Internally grounded starter RELAY for years.
You have an externally grounded starter RELAY.
Does the small BLACK 90* wire go to ground?
The small RED 90* connected wire should be from the ignition switch.
Where does the large BLACK wire on the right side of the RELAY go to?
Where does the small Black wire connected under the large BLACK on the right side of the RELAY go to?
There should only be a small RED wire going from the starter RELAY to the engine starter SOLENOID on the engine starter.
There should be a large + Pos battery cable going to the starter connected to a large terminal on it.
Pic below is normally how a starter Relay should look like.
 

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G. Mann

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The picture of the relay oldbull8 posted is what you "should" have on your truck.

I suggest that you may have the wrong relay installed and that could be the source of your problem.

What the previous owner / "electrical genius" has changed to get the one you have is a mystery to me.. but I know if you put it back like Ford built it.. it will work.
 

madpogue

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^^^^^ +1; follow and find the other end of EVERY wire connected to that relay. Even the large terminals appear to be mis-wired. One large terminal should have several wires on it, for main power distribution. The other large terminal should have only one wire on it, going to the starter solenoid.
 

theguruat12

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He has the same relay as is in my '85, however mine has one of the small terminals unused (I believe it's a power for the distributor when cranking on a gasser).

Some of them had those relays, it's a toss-up when I see our trucks in the yards. The earlier ones I believe had that style. They will work just fine, if connected correctly. And yes, they are internally grounded (If by internally grounded you mean grounded through their mounting bracket).

The second small wire in the OP's pic (the one closer to the firewall) should not be there, if it's the same setup that I have, which it should be, being the same year.

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You can't see it because of the big blue power wire, but on the second large relay terminal, there is a single approx. 12ga wire going to the solenoid on the starter.
 
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