Rear axle seals and bearings

[cardana24]

Hey guys,
I have a 1994 turbo diesel, automatic. My truck just failed inspection because they said the rear axle seals are leaking and grease is getting on the brakes. They told me that they want to change the bearing while they are in there, and put brake shoes on the truck too. It all sounds great but they quoted me $800 to do it. So I am looking into taking the truck to another shop and providing my own parts to save some money. So I want to make sure I get the right stuff. Rock auto lists: USA STANDARD GEAR Part # USA10034 Axle Bearing & Seal Kit
Rear; 4WD; Ford 10.25"
Rear; RWD; Ford 10.25"

Will this kit fit my truck? I don't know what size ring gear I have but I assume it is 10.25 because that is what most everything is showing. If this does not fit then what do you all suggest?

 

[cardana24]

Is there any reason to change my rear axle bearing if they are not making noise? I have been doing some reading and it sound like they are lubricated by the gear lube in the rear diff, so unless that has run dry they should be staying lubricated, and IMO would mostly likely be okay.

It seems that in 94 for made a change in the rear axle seals mid model year. So again I am stumped on what I need. I am reading this write up on the diesel stop http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?Axle Seal Replacement

It sounds like I could possibly need a press in seal or a seal that can be pressed in by hand.

Also, if I do need the hand press in seals is the process as easy as it looks in ^ that write up? The axles just slide right out after you take the hub bolts off? Then the hub comes off one the lock nut is removed then you can replace the seal?

This seal is listed as fitting, is this the correct seal for my truck? http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-BR...automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

Then here is a second seal that is listed as fitting the rear...how does this fit into the equation? I'm sure some of this would be self explanatory if I pulled the axles out but I am trying to get parts on hand before I start pulling things apart.
http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-BR...&ie=UTF8&qid=1418063684&sr=1-2&keywords=brs40

 

[79jasper]

Go to autozone and pick up the timken 370047A.
That guys write up is slightly off. Instead of oil, use black rtv, also where the seal rides on the axle.
Now that's for the seal inlisted, if you get the old type, it won't work like that.
Also, bearings are probably okay.
You may also need the axle gasket felpro 55328, but rtv will work there also.

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[cardana24]

Go to autozone and pick up the timken 370047A.
That guys write up is slightly off. Instead of oil, use black rtv, also where the seal rides on the axle.
Now that's for the seal inlisted, if you get the old type, it won't work like that.
Also, bearings are probably okay.
You may also need the axle gasket felpro 55328, but rtv will work there also.

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Okay, so are you saying that I should have that first type of seal? What do you mean for the seal inlisted?

 

[79jasper]

Oops. * I listed instead on inlisted. Lol
I've never seen one like the first one you listed.
The timken I listed is the "upgraded" seal.

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[cardana24]

Oops. * I listed instead on inlisted. Lol
I've never seen one like the first one you listed.
The timken I listed is the "upgraded" seal.

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So if I get the upgraded seal you listed, do I need to change anything else, or is it just a straight swap? Old seal out...new upgraded seal in? Also, is this something that needs to be machine pressed, or can it be pressed in by hand?

I went ahead and purchased the lock nut socket that is listed in the write up that I linked earlier, it seems like that is a must for this job.

 

[79jasper]

Yes, the socket is a must.
Goes right into place. It comes with a metal cup looking thing, you lay it on top and hammer it in. A mallet or dead blow would be good.
If I Remember right, the drivers side lock nut is LH thread. Passenger side is normal.

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[cardana24]

Yes, the socket is a must.
Goes right into place. It comes with a metal cup looking thing, you lay it on top and hammer it in. A mallet or dead blow would be good.
If I Remember right, the drivers side lock nut is LH thread. Passenger side is normal.

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So is the upgraded seal the only "part" I need to replace the old seal? The reason I ask is because other stuff is mentioned in the write up that I linked.

 

[79jasper]

I didn't see anything else mentioned.
That's all I did on mine.

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[Ruger_556]

Hey guys,
I have a 1994 turbo diesel, automatic. My truck just failed inspection because they said the rear axle seals are leaking and grease is getting on the brakes. They told me that they want to change the bearing while they are in there, and put brake shoes on the truck too. It all sounds great but they quoted me $800 to do it.

Bearings are likely okay but... Wheel/axle seal leaks can be caused by worn bearings. You can pull the axle shafts and measure end play with a dial indicator to see if this is what is going on. Since you have to take it apart anyway I would just change the bearings and be done with it. If you decide not to replace them make sure you take a flashlight and inspect them closely to make sure there isn't any pitting.

 

[TahoeTom]

I used SKF seal #34384 from NAPA. It is the two part seal that rotates within itself. Super easy installation by hand. Interesting that the part # differs from the one in the article by the last number, a 4 instead of a six. New bearings are probably made in China, so I wouldn't replace them unless they are scored or pitted. To install hub nuts, tighten to 55 to 65 ft-lb while rotating hub, then back off 5 clicks for new bearings and 8 clicks for used bearings. The hub nut should have RH and LH on them, with drivers side LH thread.

 

[typ4]

Install the seals as per the instructions in the package, some use oil, some are installed dry, the manufacturers are changing rubber compounds all the time, Ive never used rtv on the spindle with an oil bath seal, if it ever shears you will have a huge leak. After replacing many OTR truck seals because this was done, reading the newest instructions is the best bet.

 

[dunk]

Only use two piece seals that rotates within itself. Old seals are expensive and always leak. Bearings are likely fine, clean and inspect if bearings and races and not scored or discolored from heat just clean and reuse.

 

[79jasper]

Mine were the two piece bearing type seal.
The instructions said to use rtv. Or maybe it was the skf/scottseal instructions for their version.
Russell, were these the type you were replacing?

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[Agnem]

Ford did upgrade the 10.25 seal to a new style that incorporates an oil slinger. It DOES require the inner bearing be changed. This is why the bearing replacement was required. It is WORTH the money to get the kit from Ford if it is still available. It probably has a U.S.A. made Timken in it, and never requires any kind of RTV crap. I did this to the Lady Moose when we first bought her in 2004 and it has never had a rear axle seal put in it since.