Hydroboost Chevy style ???'s

riotwarrior

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Well of all the things to see I did see it and now I'm hooked!

Yesterday, I saw a chev hydroboost and thought...WAIT a minute...*** over OMG, I can do this!

Now that that is over, what I'm getting at is for those who may be IN the KNOW, does the chev main pressure line from the PS pump on the FORD pump fit right into a Chev HB assembly?

My friend Eugene has several of these setups on trucks he is getting rid of, and I"m thinking this could just be an answer to my long sought issue of running a Saginaw pump and Ford Hydro boost.

If the Ford PS pump line fits a chev HB then the logic would be a Chev/saginaw PS pump line would/should fit my Ford HB....????

Right???

Does anyone actually know?

Al
 

icanfixall

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Sorry but I don't know that answer but.. I can tell you something that does not cross from chevy to ford. Thats the firewall mounting bracket. They are differant from ford to chevy. Are they available in the aftermarket.. I would think so but have never searched for one.Give ABS Power Brakes Inc a call. they have a nice web site at www.abspowerbrake.com
You may have come on to somethng new and interesting with the hose fittings too. Why do you want to run the siganaw pump. why is it better in your eyes.
 

riotwarrior

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Sorry but I don't know that answer but.. I can tell you something that does not cross from chevy to ford. Thats the firewall mounting bracket. They are differant from ford to chevy. Are they available in the aftermarket.. I would think so but have never searched for one.Give ABS Power Brakes Inc a call. they have a nice web site at www.abspowerbrake.com
You may have come on to somethng new and interesting with the hose fittings too. Why do you want to run the siganaw pump. why is it better in your eyes.

Gary,

Maybe I wasn't as clear as I'd hoped...what else is new,

I have a complete 92 SD FORD HB setup pump reservoir, 3 lines, the HB with bracket and rod and the MC, as a complete KIT less pedal and that may actually be available too waiting on answer for pedal! I can redrill stock pedal no problem.

I want to use a SAGINAW hi volume hi pressure pump that can be easily purchased as a hi performance unit, so I can later on add HYDRO assist steering!

I need to know if a Chevy hydro boost has the same female HI pressure fittings as the FORD, then I can use a Saginaw pump and chev line on my FORD setup.
 

icanfixall

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Ok.. Well why not take a ford like and try it out on the signaw pump that you friend has. I'm thinking it will be the same but wont tell you this because its a wag....:eek::angel: You can drill new firewall holes to fit the chevy hydroboost too but thats so work right there. Those mounting plates are only held on with a small spanner nut that knocks off easily. Nice to know you have all the parts to swap over.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Does anyone actually know?
Yes, someone knows. And IIRC you received info on that exact subject as well. To which your reply was "oh I'll just have a set of lines custom made". Regardless, here is what you need to know:

1) Ford hydro uses SAE threads, GM uses metric. Threads are very close in pitch and diameter.

2) the o-ringed flare ends on the pressure lines appear identical between Ford and GM - as long as fitting threads in line will seal.

3) Ford SAE lines will in fact thread into a GM booster. The opposite is likely impossible as the SAE fittings have smaller diameter than the metric ones.

4) Ford pump-to-hydro line will run on about 65% thread engagement when threaded into a GM booster. It will not leak, but it's still a dicey setup.

5) Ford hydro-to-gearbox line will run on about 85% thread engagement when threaded into a GM booster. It will not leak, and can possibly be considered a safe setup for daily use. It is your judgment call.

6) Ford diesel E-series Saginaw pump discharge fitting appears to be identical to that used on '80s and newer GM Saginaw pumps. Therefore a GM pump-to-hydro line will bolt up to a factory E-series pump.

7) Older Ford Saginaw pumps used flared discharge fittings. So did '70s GM trucks. The fittings swap freely with the later O-ring style metric-thread style.

8) mounting plates are removable from and swappable between different boosters. You will however need the special spanner wrench for the respective nut.

9) pedal pushrods are not easily swapped between boosters -you are for the most part stuck with what you have.

10) booster plunger that pushes on the master cylinder is shorter on a GM booster than it is on a Ford. Therefor if one is to use a brick and possibly OBS master on a GM they will have to partially fill the cavity in the master's piston so that plunger comes in contact with thee bottom of the Ford master piston properly.

So no, you can't just use a GM line on the F-Superduty hydro.
 
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icanfixall

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Thanks for the detailed information. Where did you find this or was it from experiance first hand..
 

riotwarrior

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Yes, someone knows. And IIRC you received info on that exact subject as well. To which your reply was "oh I'll just have a set of lines custom made". Regardless, here is what you need to know:
And I still, HAVE to have a CUSTOM line made...however my first plan was ONLY saginaw PUMP / FORD Booster

I had the opportunity to look very close at the Chev stuff and can have at least 2 maybe 3 complete setups. This was why the questions about the fitment.

I tested line fitment myself just before weekend and forgot to get back here to respond.

Chev line won't fit in Ford and ford does fit chev loose JUST AS YOU SAY! Also I don't feel the ends look similar enough to warrant using. Thus I'm back to...

HAVING CUSTOM lines MADE for SAGINAW pump to FORD booster.

Had I been able to just use pre-existing lines great! Allan's Hose n All can make custom lines up in Kelowna. Get two made in case one blows...have spare to carry!



1) Ford hydro uses SAE threads, GM uses metric. Threads are very close in pitch and diameter.

2) the o-ringed flare ends on the pressure lines appear identical between Ford and GM - as long as fitting threads in line will seal.

3) Ford SAE lines will in fact thread into a GM booster. The opposite is likely impossible as the SAE fittings have smaller diameter than the metric ones.

4) Ford pump-to-hydro line will run on about 65% thread engagement when threaded into a GM booster. It will not leak, but it's still a dicey setup.

5) Ford hydro-to-gearbox line will run on about 85% thread engagement when threaded into a GM booster. It will not leak, and can possibly be considered a safe setup for daily use. It is your judgment call.

6) Ford diesel E-series Saginaw pump discharge fitting appears to be identical to that used on '80s and newer GM Saginaw pumps. Therefore a GM pump-to-hydro line will bolt up to a factory E-series pump.

7) Older Ford Saginaw pumps used flared discharge fittings. So did '70s GM trucks. The fittings swap freely with the later O-ring style metric-thread style.

8) mounting plates are removable from and swappable between different boosters. You will however need the special spanner wrench for the respective nut.

9) pedal pushrods are not easily swapped between boosters -you are for the most part stuck with what you have.

10) booster plunger that pushes on the master cylinder is shorter on a GM booster than it is on a Ford. Therefor if one is to use a brick and possibly OBS master on a GM they will have to partially fill the cavity in the master's piston so that plunger comes in contact with thee bottom of the Ford master piston properly.

So no, you can't just use a GM line on the F-Superduty hydro.

I have a #6 E series pump and 1/2 line...the end that goes into the saginaw pump but not the opposite end!

This is all great information that LCAM has provided and yes, he PM"d me previously with similar info which was awesome.

Now after personally checking the fitment of lines, the only way I would use the GM setup would be to use ALL GM parts pump and booster and adapt the setup to fit FORD by changing mounting plates etc.

Better to use a FORD setup IMHO and if you have to have a SAGINAW pump like I want, then I"d suggest custom lines like I still plan on!

ONE more thing, since the newer 03 model HYDRO is metric I wonder if those fit the GM stuff...something else to check on for cross fit!

JM2CW

Oh I'll be using a remote reservoir for my setup already got those parts for the most part as it was a stock Chev pump with remote filler!

Thanks for all the details LCAM

Al
 

LCAM-01XA

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Thanks for the detailed information. Where did you find this or was it from experiance first hand..
First-hand experience with mid-'80s C20 hydro, '00 C3500 hydro, '00 C3500 pressure lines, early-'90s F-Superduty pressure lines, F-series C2 and E-series Saginaw pumps, and also a '70s Lincoln Saginaw pump.

Chev line won't fit in Ford and ford does fit chev loose JUST AS YOU SAY! Also I don't feel the ends look similar enough to warrant using. Thus I'm back to...

HAVING CUSTOM lines MADE for SAGINAW pump to FORD booster.

Had I been able to just use pre-existing lines great! Allan's Hose n All can make custom lines up in Kelowna. Get two made in case one blows...have spare to carry!
The flared ends looked the same to me. At least where the O-ring seals. Come to think of it there's a good chance I used a GM o-ring on my Ford hydro-to-gearbox line. Nuts are different tho, like you say Ford nuts in GM hydro are loose fit. Actually the hydro-to-gearbox is dang near identical, it threads in about as tight as any replacement line I've had to thread into a Ford C2 pump. The pump-to-hydro is the one that's real loose, but I got quite a few thousand trouble-free miles that prove it still seals fine (ignorance is bliss they say). Still I wouldn't recommend anyone to run the Ford lines on a GM hydro, just because you can doesn't mean you should.

I have a #6 E series pump and 1/2 line...the end that goes into the saginaw pump but not the opposite end!
You should be able to just unthread that AN fitting and replace it with your factory E-series or a factory '80s or '90s fullsize GM fitting, this will allow you to run the GM pressure line. To my knowledge there is no direct-fit fitting that will allow you to run a F-Superduty pressure line on a Saginaw pump... but one can be made easily enough (read Jon's quote in my siggy) :sly

That said, with hydro assist I'd run as big lines as possible. Thing is tho, the hydroboost won't flow it, especially when you're on the brakes. According to Pirate sources there are modifications that can be made to remedy this. Do your diligent research and get in touch with the company that makes it happen (I know of one, there may be more), and see if they alter the hydro line ports in any way - no sense in having custom lines made only to find out they'll have to be reworked if the booster requires porting out.

Now after personally checking the fitment of lines, the only way I would use the GM setup would be to use ALL GM parts pump and booster and adapt the setup to fit FORD by changing mounting plates etc.
And even then you'll still run into the pedal pushrod issue, the GM one is about 2.5" longer than what Ford used, thus requiring either spacing the booster away from the firewall (what I did) or cutting and rewelding the pushrod. Either allows you to fine-tune your pedal height tho, I lifted mine up slightly cause I never liked it how low it sits from the factory. Then there is the master cylinder issue, with the plunger length and piston bore depth I mention. On the flip side you can use a myriad of GM masters in all sorts of sizes and port configurations... I recommend '79 350-powered C10 master for the 1-1/8" bore and '79 454-powered C30 master for the 1-1/4" bore, both a cheap and reliable and hold stupid amounts of brake fluid. Newer masters with see-thru tanks are also option, but they are more expensive and I'm a cheap basterd.


Better to use a FORD setup IMHO and if you have to have a SAGINAW pump like I want, then I"d suggest custom lines like I still plan on!
Or grab a Saginaw fitting and a C2 pump fitting and take them to a machine shop to have them turned and pressed and welded together. Then you can run factory Ford lines you can get at any parts store.

ONE more thing, since the newer 03 model HYDRO is metric I wonder if those fit the GM stuff...something else to check on for cross fit!
Supposedly that booster has 16mm on both inlet and outlet ports, GM uses 18mm on one side and 16mm on the other. Thus it will be a no-go. You do have the F350 booster at hand tho, so measure it up and see what ports it has.
 

jaluhn83

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You *may* be able to make work if you're willing to try something - get a new Ford PS line with the fitting you need for the HB and a new Chevy line with the fitting for the pump...... cut the rubber line on each and take it to your local hydraulic shop and see if he can crimp on JIC type fittings then just splice them together. :sly

I know you can crimp a JIC fitting on the ford lines, that's how I setup my winch. IIRC it's regular 1/4" hydraulic hose. $64 question would be if you could do the same on the chevy line......
 

LCAM-01XA

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Factory GM lines have steel spiral reinforcement inside them for the fluid to run thru. Aftermarket ones, it's anyone's guess... You tell me if JIC fittings can be crimped on such a steel reinforced hose?

I still think best way to do it is to splice a Ford C2 fitting and a Saginaw fitting together. Even at 1500 psi deadheaded the actual force trying to separate it will be about 165lbs or 55lbs per linear inch of weld on the circumference of the two fittings. Which is nothing for a good strong weld. Make them so they have to be pressed together before the weld is done, and force drops even more. So yeah, do it once, do it right, and have yourself a nice non-wear-item adapter that allows you to run off-the-shelf wear items (the hose).
 

jaluhn83

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Interesting, did not know that. May be able to crimp onto that, never know until you take it to your local hydraulic guy. I'd be willing to bet that it's a pretty standard hose, so probably you could figure something out.

My concern with welding wouldn't be brute tensile strength but rather the chance of any defect turning into a pinhole leak or worse. Unless your welding is way better than mine that is.... Personally I would try to machine the fittings to where you they fit together with a axial surface (ie one slides over the other) with a close fit and then braze them. Brazing wicks the metal into the joint and makes it much less likely to make leaks. With a good joint design it's just as strong as a weld too. (because it's a larger area subject to shear load rather than a small area in tension - even though the bulk strength of the weld metal is much higher there's much less area of it)
 

LCAM-01XA

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Aye, that's what I meant by doing it right - cut and turn them so they require a press to go inside one another, then weld them on top of that.

Edit: just looked at my C2 fittings, all their o-ring grooves look fully weldable back up to the larger diameter - then turn down as needed to match the end of an o-ring hose, cut 16mm thread, add the o-ring and thread into the Saginaw pump fitting. Now that I thought of all that I gotta try it, dang you man!
 
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jaluhn83

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Yah, that sounds good. I still prefer bazing, but that's just me. My thing is that it's so easy to get a small slag pocket or miss a spot and there's no real way to know it's there until it becomes a pinhole leak under pressure. Even a tiny defect will leak enough to get oily and nasty. Brazing gives you less chance of that and it's much easier to see if there's any spots you missed.

Course, maybe you're a better welder than I so that might help......
 

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I dont know anything about the GM pump side of the lines, but I went with a hydroboost out of a 80s suburban and the part number on that unit is EXACTLY the same as the part number as the hydraulic unit that goes in the f450. The hose fittings fit the ford fittings perfectly, I havent lost a drop of fluid since it went in., only differences were the rod lengths so I ended up using a couple of 2" square bars spacers to make teh rod match p for the pedal, then made an insert for between the booster and the f450 master
 
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