New addition to the stable

[mohavewolfpup]

I'll grab a photo of it later (possibly sunday night) as I'm at my "job" (dog rescue volunteer) right now. As for the "trailer battery charger?" No idea. All I see is a 4? Gauge wire run straight back to the bumper. The end is hacked off, and I see a thick ball/point of copper wiring there when a twist on red cap (wire termination) is removed. Going back to the front, there is a toggle switch installed in the place of the (bottle jack hook? No idea) that I have no idea of it's purpose. There is also a dangling set of two wires on the drivers side rear that looks like I can plug something into. My dream is to drop a ford trailer wiring connector (7-8 pin?) Back there and put it in a bumper hole that already? Exists. I have a crappy uhaul kit, but would rather have a real one then that trash. Will do in a pinch though...

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Well that is interesting, 4 gauge is a massive cable when compared to what a regular 7-way trailer connection can accept. If you wanna put it to good use and have some real serious power coupler back there get yourself one of these and it's matching plug:
http://www.phillipsind.com/product/387.html
NAPA will have them, maybe not in stock but next-day order, cost will be around $40-$45 for the matched set.

And you don't need an actual Ford-branded RV connector, I've been using the simple generic Hopkins for years w/o a single problem. Just greasing the pins regularly is all she's been needing.

That toggle switch you mention, maybe it's for the relay with the big cable leading to the rear? Like, to manually turn it on and off, instead of automatically with ignition key-on?

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Not too sure what the toggle is for. I'd say it's a 4 gauge, maybe a 3? It's not small, but it's not large either. I'll take photos later/tommorrow and you can take a crack at it!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

There is no 3 gauge, they only go in even numbers, and the smaller the number the bigger the cable. If it's smaller than your new black cable, but still fairly close in size, it's probably 6 gauge.

And speaking of cable sizes, I noticed the crossover between the two batteries is 2/0 (says it right on it), which is very good. But I wonder, how big is the cable from the passenger side battery down to the starter? It should say it right on it again, you may have to peel some of the black plastic loom away so you can read what's written on there. It's probably still 2/0, but if it's 3/0 that would be excellent. If you don't mind can you please investigate that?

 

[mohavewolfpup]

The cable run to the back is smaller then the black 4 gauge ones. The big starter lug is probably the thickness of 4 gauge multipled twice I'd say. Not sure what I can see from the top, laying on my back underneath a truck is the last thing on my sore tired mind! It is thicker then stock, that much I can remember. Glow plug relay cable is probably 4 gauge

 

[mohavewolfpup]

here's a pile of various pictures I took. bear with me, dead to the world and off to bed very soon.

http://imageshack.us/a/img585/5274/img2013051800503.jpg (mysterious connector in the back, drivers side)

http://imageshack.us/a/img836/3817/img2013051800502.jpg (larger back bumper hole, left side)

http://imageshack.us/a/img607/8517/img2013051800501.jpg (smaller hole, right side)

http://imageshack.us/a/img546/7775/img2013051800500.jpg (thick wire, run from the front to the back. uncapped, source of the toggle switch? enabled wire)

http://imageshack.us/a/img824/4532/img2013051800497.jpg (upside down toggle switch)

http://imageshack.us/a/img600/9720/img2013051800496.jpg (glow plug wire to relay, stated amperage size)

http://imageshack.us/a/img832/5963/img2013051800494.jpg (different view of wire size. positive id?)

I can take more later if need be. soooo tired! night!

wire between the batteries is 2/0, it's also 2/0 to the starter (big wire)

 

[LCAM-01XA]

OK here we go:

- mysterious connector in the back, drivers side = no effin clue, don't look factory to me. What are the wire colors on it, if you can see them?

- larger back bumper hole, left side = factory location for license plate light. There should be two of them, on each side. It's fairly common for people to take one out and stick a small (5-pin or 6-pin) trailer connector in its place, saves them the effort of cutting a new hole in bumper. The two screw holes are for the connector, from the factory they do not exist.

- smaller hole, right side = possibly a different trailer connector, this one looks sized for a 4-pin one.

- thick wire, run from the front to the back = anyone's guess at this point. Could have been used to power a winch that goes in trailer hitch receiver. Or really anything else that draws a lot of power. Cap it off properly, and leave it in place for future use, I'm sure you'll find one.

- upside down toggle switch = another NFC item. Where do its wires go, can you trace them?

- glow plug wire to relay, stated amperage size = that's a 6 gauge wire. My suggestions would be to pull it from the glowplugs relay and put it on the starter relay, and at the same time pull the black cable from the starter relay and put it glowplugs relay. Basically swap their places. Reasoning: starter relay and entire truck will be just fine with 6 gauge (actually even that's a bit overkill), while glowplugs relay can definitely put the larger 4 gauge cable to good use (plugs draw well over 100 amps). You already have the cables, might as well use them to their max potential.

- different view of wire size = almost looks like someone use a stranded household 14-3 cable, since it has green and white and black wires all run thru a common sleeve. Won't be the first time I've seen it done, and it actually works pretty good for keeping wiring organized. As to what purpose it has in your truck, that idk, looks like another trace the wires project for you...

And yeah, seems I was right on the starter cable - basterds cheapened out. Supposedly early 6.9 trucks had 2/0 between the batteries and 3/0 to the starter, then Ford figured they can slide with 2/0 all around and the aftermarket followed suit. No big deal, fresh and clean cable trumps old corroded one any day even if it's slightly smaller than it. Run it an enjoy it.

As for pics, if you can take one that is sorta zoomed out view of everything on the fender, would help visually tracing wires. Set your camera on the engine air cleaner, that should give a decent picture of the whole spaghetti mess.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

The thick wire run from the front to the back is the "different wire size" as pictured. It's run along the passenger side frame rail, over the fuel tank above the spare tire and out to the end as seen. It's also zip tied to the rail. Definitely not factory. Wish I knew it's purpose! Bizarre, yet "clean" unlike some electrical hack a thons I've seen on vehicles past.

Near as I can tell with the toggle switch (upside down because of my camera angle) the green wires run into the dash area. Tracing it went heaven knows where. I suspect it's for the brake controller, but could be the gear vendors unit also

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Don't worry about the heavy-gauge wire for now, just seal it off good and forget about it till you decided what power hog you wanna feed back there.

That toggle puzzles me, why would someone put a switch in the engine bay that controls something on the dash? Unless it's someone's moronic idea of an anti-theft kill switch... I fear you won't know till you trace the wires all the way to their ends. May have to play snake for that, while sorting out the mess under the dash inside the cab.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Don't worry about the heavy-gauge wire for now, just seal it off good and forget about it till you decided what power hog you wanna feed back there.

That toggle puzzles me, why would someone put a switch in the engine bay that controls something on the dash? Unless it's someone's moronic idea of an anti-theft kill switch... I fear you won't know till you trace the wires all the way to their ends. May have to play snake for that, while sorting out the mess under the dash inside the cab.

It's low on my priorities currently. Going to get the return line kit installed, fuel filter, behind seat speakers, hopefully timed and then it's off to California hauling a car trailer!

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Anyone have any tips for a center console? Took captains chairs out of a Econoline, old (aftermarket) console is too fat. Hoping for something rugged and not cheap on the level of a Toyota corolla!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Late-'90s Explorer or Ranger?

 

[mohavewolfpup]

I'll look when I go to the junkyard next. Biggest thing is I have a ancient realistic TV under the a/c controls, want to keep it for historical giggles. Would work in pahrump, where I want to move one day.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Then you can't use the Explorer console. Why not just make your own out of wood and proper padding. It is what Centurion did way back when.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

i'll figure out the console later. Here's this weird fuel filter setup again. I assume it's stock? Not sure

It's the T Junction part. one hose runs down to above the valve cover, and then it split off into a T connector. no surprise, the connector broke when I was trying to take the hoses off. Injector 2 had a small length of hose into the junction, the fuel filter part came down into another part of it, and then the rest of the junction was to injector one on the passenger side cylinder bank. Incidently, my god... No wonder why the classic hard start flared it's ugly head. Heaven knows how many kits got butchered together for this install.... Every side of the engine had the straight through caps on them, none of the angled portions. The back of injector 4 (passenger side) near the A/C unit had a vaccum cap for a gasser engine clamped onto the end barb... Heaven knows how much air that was sucking! Interestingly, that was the only one to have the spring clamp, rather then the one you tighten with a screw driver. Everything else had hose clamps!

All of the hose clamps are heavily tightened onto the hoses also, forcing many of them (hoses) to crack at the ends. Mmm, more air intrusion most likely.

http://imageshack.us/a/img195/3434/ffassem1.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img69/5913/ffassem2.jpg

Anyway, back to the fuel filter connection. Is there a way to cap it? Or, would it be a better idea to get a 3 way brass barb (if the auto parts stores carry one? ideas for what to ask for?) and just keep this? It looks "factory" possibly, so I don't know if getting rid of it is a good idea. I tried removing it, but it seems pretty stuck in there. Not interested in mangling the filter head, as this truck will be racking up the miles to california soon... can't have it unable to move because I snapped something off!

Also, tips on the olives from the fuel filter to injection pump? Saw someone burn them off, not sure how well I could do that with a fire place lighter! They are stuck on pretty bad. Can't figure out how to get it out without the nut coming with it. Figure i'll replace them, so I removed that line.

Hopefully I can stop asking so many questions and get to assisting others! feels strange asking so much and not having much to give back at this point (knowledge, parts, etc)