Got my headlight harness in today from rjm :D :D

riotwarrior

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Gavin,

That's one of the easiest upgrades you can do! You'll do just fine, stop worrying about the lil stuff...we are here to help man....it's just simple two bolts a few electrical plugs and instant upgrade....

Not like rebuilding an E4OD or setting up a differential

JM2CW

Al
 

GENIUSLOERTS

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I can even change the bulbs without removing them. At least the headlights, haven't tried the others. LOL

I like to think I don't have fat hands, I know they are wide, but after reading this I am starting to wonder... :/
 

gdhillon

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Got her done, and snapped some pictures. Let me know what you guys think of it.....how is the way i have the relay and fuse installed?

I have the fuse bolted to the fender (same bolt that holds battery holder and formerly held the factory jack) what do you guys think....special thanks goes to my wonderful gf for helping and taking the pics.

As far brightness it was daylight outside so i couldnt really tell, but the relay was 'ticking' like crazy so i assume that means it works? All in all though the hardest part was getting the bulbs back in there headlight housing.........I also noticed that the housing on the drivers light is somewhat melted :mad: I think ill have to pull the battery and do some jb weld repairs I think i added a picture of that if not I will add later

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madpogue

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Before/after pics are hard to judge, unless you use manual settings on the camera and use the exact same exposure. Otherwise the camera just compensates for the different light level between the two shots. You could, however, unplug the driver's side and plug the OEM connector into it, for a single side-by-side comparison pic. You'll probably see more improvement with the engine running, after the glow plugs have cycled off and the alternator is putting out full voltage.
 

GOOSE

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That's a steal for $70. It would cost you $50 to cobble something up thats half as nice. Very nice, made in USA too.;Sweet
 

gdhillon

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Good idea on the plugging the drivers socket into the old wiring and comparing. I will do that tomorrow night.... can someone explain to me exactly how this system works from what I understand instead of three wiring going from the batt to the switch to the lights the hot wires now just go from the battery straight to the lights reducing line drop to the lights......and the relays are.what control the lights via the switch?

No one commented on the way i set it all up.....is where ihave the fuse and relay sitting ok?

maybe when it gets warmer (late april) ill run the traveling wire through the old housing so the setup will look a lot tidier
 

f-two-fiddy

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That's a steal for $70. It would cost you $50 to cobble something up thats half as nice. Very nice, made in USA too.;Sweet

I built mine for under $30. Higher grade wire than any aftermarket would use, 3M vibration resistant connex, and bosche relays.
 

f-two-fiddy

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Got her done, and snapped some pictures. Let me know what you guys think of it.....how is the way i have the relay and fuse installed?

I have the fuse bolted to the fender (same bolt that holds battery holder and formerly held the factory jack) what do you guys think....special thanks goes to my wonderful gf for helping and taking the pics.

As far brightness it was daylight outside so i couldnt really tell, but the relay was 'ticking' like crazy so i assume that means it works? All in all though the hardest part was getting the bulbs back in there headlight housing.........I also noticed that the housing on the drivers light is somewhat melted :mad: I think ill have to pull the battery and do some jb weld repairs I think i added a picture of that if not I will add later

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Something is not right there. The relay should not be "ticking like crazy". It should click once when energized (light switch on), and again when de-energized (light switch off)
 
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riotwarrior

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Something is not right there. The relay should not be "ticking like crazy". It should click once when energized (light switch on), and again when de-energized (light switch off)

I think what's happening is the relay is ticking ...but the afterglow causes it to go on off...or its the afterglow ticking going on...LOL
 

gdhillon

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Well the ticking happens when the plugs are cycling when the keys on the on position....it turns of after a second or two......I have daytime running lights to not sure if that makes a difference
When i pull the light switch it doesnt tick and when i put hibeams on doesnt tick either. But I havent actually had the truck running yet to check the lights (i only plug it in when I need to take it somewhere b/c according to my pops the heater draws a lot of power....he pays the bill though so I obey what he says)

Do you guys think the relays no good?
 

gdhillon

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I built mine for under $30. Higher grade wire than any aftermarket would use, 3M vibration resistant connex, and bosche relays.

Rob, in reality I should have bought the wiring and whatnot myself then put it together but next time I will (ill have to get another obs truck :sly)
 

madpogue

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Hmm, the DRLs may be complicating things. It's _possible_ that having the driver's side OEM headlight connector not connected to anything, it's having some weird effect on the DRL circuit. Might be worth an Email to RJM, see if they have any experience with the product being used in DRL-wired trucks.

Is the parking brake on?
 
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