BRAZING repair to fuel tankTECH 101

dgr

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What's the reason for the rust in the first place? I would have ass-u-med that the tank would rust from the inside at the low points. But it is rusted from the outside at the high points. Is there a collection point under a skid plate for debris that is holding water and/or road salt against that tank?

I would try a nicer acid. Phosphoric is much more pleasant to work with. Muriatic acid has given me problems with rusting after painting with plenty of neutralizing happening.
 

DOE-SST

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Thanks...if'n it's so cheap...please...feel free to pay for my new 38 gallon tank and have it shipped to

Al McCormick
250.499.4070
1306 Main Street
Oroville, Washington 98844


Because as I mentioned....my brazing rod collection and gas are plentiful and the damn tank costs WAY more than I can afford...I can afford the time to fix it...SO PLEASE....feel completely free to buy me a new tank since your so free with my cash....which I don't have!


BTW....don't forget I"M in Canada where it's at least 2x more expensive to buy here!
:mad:

Thanks for the encouragement

Al


;Poke




Your sarcasm is well noted.



Just an observation here...


In my area, lots of perfectly good parts, many with only cosmetic blemishes, are being crushed daily for scrap metal.

Near new fuel tanks are $20. Shipping from New Mexico to Canada might be what? $30 by UPS?

Is this an economical way to get good parts to people that need them?

Just wondering.

All opinions are appreciated.

I just hate seeing good vehicles with lots of good parts getting crushed. The U-Pull It yard scraps vehicles after they have sat for a few months, regardless of what parts are still remaining.
 

riotwarrior

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Your sarcasm is well noted.



Just an observation here...


In my area, lots of perfectly good parts, many with only cosmetic blemishes, are being crushed daily for scrap metal.

Near new fuel tanks are $20. Shipping from New Mexico to Canada might be what? $30 by UPS?

Is this an economical way to get good parts to people that need them?

Just wondering.

All opinions are appreciated.

I just hate seeing good vehicles with lots of good parts getting crushed. The U-Pull It yard scraps vehicles after they have sat for a few months, regardless of what parts are still remaining.

Thanks...I'm kinda miffed when people don't pay attention to the fact I"m busy with what I have cause it's what I can afford...

As for the tank...I guess for the others it would be ok...but for me...it's not that much of a deal...

I can get a new 38 gallon tanks for just over 120 bucks...shipped to that address...it costs 4 bucks to pick up there then come across boarder with wife...

Fix rusty tank....FREE!

I put money where I need to LOL....
 

riotwarrior

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What's the reason for the rust in the first place? I would have ass-u-med that the tank would rust from the inside at the low points. But it is rusted from the outside at the high points. Is there a collection point under a skid plate for debris that is holding water and/or road salt against that tank?

I would try a nicer acid. Phosphoric is much more pleasant to work with. Muriatic acid has given me problems with rusting after painting with plenty of neutralizing happening.

rear tanks skid plate got packed up with gravel and sawdust and moisture....perfect wet sand....rot the tank out....situation...that's all..

fixing this is free if it works...or wast a bit of gas n rod which I have lots of...if it doesn't work!
 

dgr

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I appreciate you throwing the thread together. Note to self: Clean out the skid plate.
 

maverick350

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My first foray into welding gas tanks was as a teenager. I gas welded so many patches on the tanks on my ranger with coat hangers that the tanks were more patches than tank. Every time you'd get a new patch on you ended up with more holes. Being gas and all, I didn't dare weld without water in the tank, and I think that the patches being dissimilar thickness to the parent metal helped cause the tank to crack more as it cooled.

I had a hole in one of the tanks on my latest van, and simply loosened the straps enough to keep the residual diesel off to the far side, heated with oxy/acyt, tacked it quick with some steel rod and that was that.

Diesel is so much nicer to deal with than gas, fire hazard is still there to some degree. Coat hangers are cheap.... But if you have anything larger than a small hole, i would pull the tank so that I don't have to weld standing on my head. Rust spatters everywhere.

At one point I got frustrated with the thin walls of fuel tanks and made my own out of 16ga steel,..but I wouldn't recommend that unless you're a glutton for punishment.

As I get older, I get more paranoid, and the thought of a tank that might spring a leak on me at the next pothole is something I am less inclined to tolerate. But if it's a vehicle that's on its way to the boneyard in the next year or so, I'd do it.

I have never tried brazing, I assume the rational would be either an attempt to keep the parent metal from distorting or crystallizing?
 

riotwarrior

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kinda using brazing rod.....

CAUSE I HAVE PLENTY TO WORK WITH LOL...NOT SURE IF I MADE THAT PART CLEAR.....each time I mentioned it...

goal..see if this works....tells me my skillz ok...gets me back to two tanks....cost...negligable..

CAUSE I HAVE LOTS OF BRAZING ROD......LOL
 

RLDSL

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Are you using bare rod or flux rod? I've found on metal like that, using a flux rod AND plenty of brush on flux will do the trick to get it to grab in and not flake off As mentioned with other nasties, position yourself upwind, you really dont want to be breathing all that flux burnoff. If you use small diameter flux rod w plenty of brush on flux, you wont have to heat the parent metal up too much and punch holes, just work small sections at a time spread them a tad further out for strength and take your time. Once you get going, you will have a good section that you have already brazed in to pool back into and it will start working nicely. Ive run into this trying to braze fittings into old oil pans and diff covers with layers of flaky rust. similar situation where it was hard to tell if you actually got down to base metal due to surface irregularity
 

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