Van conversion

[NTOLERANCE]

Nice looking body. I'd've grabbed it for $500.

You'll also need van engine mounts - they are different from F mounts. We didn't notice this when putting an F engine into my E, and got to haul the engine back out! Good practice, though.

Also, if the IDI van at the yard is complete, grab the fuel filter head from it, and the pipe to the IP. Beats a remote filter and its long hoses. Fits on top near the IP. Cannot install until the engine's in place, though.

Don't remember if I've said this before: Think long hoist & short chain! And remove all the belt-driven stuff until she's on her mounts - you'll need the clearance.

Oh, and as someone else suggested here: Remove the passenger seat. Makes it MUCH easier to do the rear-of-engine work, plus doghouse cover easier to remove.

Exhaust system will probably need to be changed?. Cat deleted, at least. Of course, may not be much left of the orig in your climate!

No oil in my coolant yet, but my head gasket job (and its engine pull) still awaits. Best of luck to ya & keep us posted. Would enjoy being there to help.

Are the mounts a complete item or will I need brackets? Never yanked a ford diesel before,

Think I can reuse the trans cross member from the E40D? or mod the F series one to work?

I will complete custom the exhaust. I hate Y pipes, not sure what I will do yet, but once its in we will see.

Leaving in a half an hour to look at the van. Hope it works out.

 

[idi_econoline]

IIRC, the two engine mounts should go into pre-drilled holes in the big crossmember between the wheels. Since I've never done a swap, I trust that crossmember is the same for all Es, but someone else would need to answer that. The F mounts do not line up with the E's crossmember; F crossmember way different spot vs. the block. The two mounts bolt to the sides of the block and adapt it to each application.

No clue about the trans crossmember. Would like to think they're the same, but I don't know. Perhaps compare with the one @ junkyard to be sure?

Oh, you'll only need to change one of the 2 exhaust manifolds, pretty sure it's the RH one.

Actually, a remote fuel filter wouldn't require long hoses if placed inline on side rail. Duh.

One last note: Safety First. The block alone is like 900 lbs; bigger and heavier than a 460, so I've heard. Serious business! A long pry bar is useful to maneuvering.

 

[NTOLERANCE]

Dang. Another rust bucket.

 

[idi_econoline]

CrapCrap. Keep forgetting that the minor surface rust I have to contend with is NOTHING compared to most of the country.

My Cali van (had orig plates when I bought it) has seen some snowy driving, but not the high humidity and salt you fellows get to fight constantly.

Hat's off to you non-Californians, and hope you find a better van, NTOLERANCE.

 

[NTOLERANCE]

After thinking about it, a Suburban would be a better set up. Lower to the ground, more clearance, and less passenger compartment noise.

need to keep an eye out.

 

[DOE-SST]

Dang. Another rust bucket.

too bad.

Down here in central NM, even the exhaust pipes last for the life of the vehicle. Very rare to see any body rust, unless the vehicle came from some other state, or it is 25+ years old.


With the E350 IDI, noise really isn't an issue when everything is working right. Engine noise is a bit loud when you step on the accelerator, but when cruising on the highway, you can talk to your passenger in a normal voice, and that is with just factory doghouse insulation.

 

[SparkandFire]

My 97' conversion E250 is a 5.4 triton powered beast...

The engine is placed strategically so that it can not be easily accessed from either the front with the hood open, or from the back with the doghouse removed. It's dead center in the middle of the dash...

I've replaced spark plugs, and the tensioner/serp belt. Once you get used to contortionist style wrenching, it's not bad...

But, it makes good power, I average around 14 mpg on the freeway and I am grossing close to 8,200 lbs with the beast fully geared up.

All in all, I really do enjoy the beast.