E4OD problems

[trackspeeder]

So taking the cross member down is a regular way of doing it?
Do you have to knock out the studs holding it on?
How hi would I need to get the van to get the tranny out?

The cross member is a bolt on deal. Pull the bolts. It will come out.

Hmm, Not sure on how high to lift it. I use a couple of extreme duty ramps for the trucks. They are about a foot in height.

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

Hmm, Not sure on how high to lift it. I use a couple of extreme duty ramps for the trucks. They are about a foot in height.

I had my 93 on a set of jack stands, when I took it's E4OD out.. I had about 3" of clearance, to get it out from under the truck.

 

[7river]

Still got the old unit in. Looking for a good deal on a good rebuild. I'll wait (well don't have the money for a full rebuild now anyway).
If anyone knows of a good deal on a rebuilt E4od please let me know.
What I did was add a cooler, make a shroud to deflect heat from the exhaust away from tranny (seemed the y pipe was custom and came very close to tranny) and I don't let it idle when real hot so it always has air flowing. Still leaks a little but no major issues and took a 2500 mile trip to Northern MI.
Thanks for all the help and information. This site has been a great source of knowledge for this rig!

 

[DOE-SST]

Before you spend any serious money...


I had the exact same problem with a 1994 E350 IDI with E4OD.


The front seal loosened up from overheating and would puke fluid after long drives on hot days. This occurred right after the vehicle was put back into service, after sitting for 2 years.


I added a trans temp gauge and an oversized transmission pan with cooling tubes on the bottom. The tubes allow ambient air to flow thru them.


This solved the problem. After 5000+ miles of watching it like a hawk, it hasn't spilled a drop of fluid, and I did not replace the seal.


The new pan cost $140 and increased the capacity to 12 quarts. On hot days (100F) the fluid might reach 120F, and stays at 100F in cooler weather.


When towing, the temp has reach 150F but still no fluid loss.

Good Luck

 

[7river]

Before you spend any serious money...


I had the exact same problem with a 1994 E350 IDI with E4OD.


The front seal loosened up from overheating and would puke fluid after long drives on hot days. This occurred right after the vehicle was put back into service, after sitting for 2 years.


I added a trans temp gauge and an oversized transmission pan with cooling tubes on the bottom. The tubes allow ambient air to flow thru them.


This solved the problem. After 5000+ miles of watching it like a hawk, it hasn't spilled a drop of fluid, and I did not replace the seal.


The new pan cost $140 and increased the capacity to 12 quarts. On hot days (100F) the fluid might reach 120F, and stays at 100F in cooler weather.


When towing, the temp has reach 150F but still no fluid loss.

Good Luck

Thanks for that! That makes me feel a little less "irresponsible" hauling my family around with a bad tranny. What brand pan was it? I also figure I wont have the problem in the winter.
Hopefully I can get by till I can afford to overhaul the unit properly or find a deal on one.

 

[7river]

OK, I found a rebuild from a bus company for $500. Has a new TC. I'm going to pull the tranny today. I have the passenger side tires on a 4x10 beam and plan on jacking up the drivers side the rest to clear the frame. Anyone have recommendations on tranny fluid? I was thinking of getting the Lukas semi synthetic. Also going to throw in a inline filter.

I put another 3000 miles on her last fall. I made a shield to keep the exhaust heat off the tranny and watched my speed and idling when hot. Did ok but had some leaking times. Now it didn't want to move for me (had to rev a bit like slipping)a few times early winter so I parked it. Don't know tranny's but I would guess it's the TC. Just hope the rebuild is good. Came from a school bus company who had it rebuilt and shelved it (for 5 years) but now gave up their 7.3 IDI fleet. It was stored TC in with bracket holding it in and on end bell housing down. Probably like that for three years. Anyone know if that could be an issue?

 

[Kevin 007]

Use some Valvoline Max Life synthitic STF, I swear by it. And I use a magnifine megnetic inline filter, easy to install and replace.

 

[7river]

Well I got it out! Not in a rush to get the new one in. Waiting to see if anyone has feedback on the tranny being stored on end for several years. Thinking about replacing the cooler lines.

 

[trackspeeder]

Well I got it out! Not in a rush to get the new one in. Waiting to see if anyone has feedback on the tranny being stored on end for several years. Thinking about replacing the cooler lines.

The tranny should be fine.

You could flush the original lines out. Unless they are damaged, then you should replace them.
Besure to flush the cooler. There could be crud built up inside.

Fliud any Mercon or Mercon V fluid will work.

 

[7river]

Thanks trackspeeder and Kevin 007

Anyone know how the shift modual comes off the shifter shaft?
Seems to be stuck on there, don't want to break it.

 

[7river]

I meant anyone know how to remove the manual lever position sensor? Mine seems to be stuck on.

 

[trackspeeder]

Remove the bolts and give it a yank.

 

[7river]

Well I finally got the new one in. Between It's been hard to find time to finish it up plus we just had a baby at home two weeks ago! I ran into a problem. When I started it up something is hitting. Shut it right down (only ran 1 sec). Looks like the starter is touching the flywheel at one point. Seems there is more clearance at different points if I rotate it so maybe flywheel is not true. Anyone know if this is from the way I tightened the TC or if somehow the starter needs to be re-shimmed? Never took the starter off. I had trouble turning over the engine by hand when I was reinstalling so I tightened TC bolts bottom 2 and top 2. Anyone know if that could be the problem? If so, can you tell me best way to turn over the engine? I was using a screw driver against the bell housing to get them off, but not working too well now. Whats the easiest way to kill the engine from firing when turning it over? Thanks in advance.

 

[trackspeeder]

The only thing I can think of is the converter is not fully seated. The flexplate should turn easily with a screwdriver.

Best thing to do is pull the tranny again. The converter should be about 3/4" below the bell housing face.

 

[Danielle]

I am a little late but mine was also puking out my vent tube (although mine is pointed down). I got the cooler, gauge, and over sized trans lines, and have had zero issues. We're rebuilding an "extra" E40D right now (slooooooooow going haha) as three of my 4 trucks have them. We got a book and a DVD. Fun