7.3 idi regasket questions

[pt_Ranger_v8]

Getting ready to regasket my 'new' 7.3idi out of a 94 F350.

I'll probably do a new (stock/reman) IP and injectors at the same time.


Is there anything crazy that I should be looking for? I've been reading horror stories of people pulling the front cover on their IP, and I'm wondering if that's really gonna be an issue, since I'll have the engine on a stand, and am basically putting all new gaskets in it.

Any pitfalls I should be looking out for? I've got the AllData disc for that year, and I'm pretty confident around an engine, but this is the first oilburner I've torn into.

 

[idiabuse]

so your going to regasket a engine with how many miles? a old engine with new gaskets and spray paint is still a old engine not worth owning in my honest opinion.

Hey but I have been proven wrong many times before...


Javier

 

[pt_Ranger_v8]

200k. It runs and drives fine, but I'm pulling it to swap into another truck. I see no reason to rebuild it completely if it doesn't need it. But, since it appears to leak like a sieve (given all the oil blown over the tranny, transfer case, and underside of the bed), it makes sense to put gaskets on it while it's easy to do, no?

 

[idiabuse]

if you dont take measuring tools to all the machined surfaces and get actual DATA you are wasting your time and money, these engines are not that expensive as long as they last.
200,000 miles is enough miles using regular diesel oil to have plenty of wear and sludge inside the engine.
Cylinders take the most wear and cause oil compsumption and blow by and is less efficient for every gallon of diesel fuel burned

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Valve guides get worn and heads usually have cracks, valve seats are worn down and valves need remachining.

In the end you have a sealed up tired engine that cost more to operate


Javier

 

[dyoung14]

I see no reason to rebuild it unless its needed

 

[turbodiesel94]

I'm pretty sure the saying goes "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

 

[idiabuse]

I see no reason to rebuild it unless its needed

I build alot of engines, for friends and myself, and we all know if we had enough money we would all build awesome IDIs or whatever you like, YES?

In my experience, no matter how good an engine is built, If I take it apart I will ALWAYS find something wrong and in need of repair.

I never spend 5 minutes with a person who is wanting to build an engine wearing a blindfold.

I build to last, that means every single machined surface needs to be inspected, remeasured at least 4/5 times before it gets bolted down.

Slap stick engine building is for the machine shops that already have bad reputations.

If you happen to be sick with the flu and the doctor says all you need is warm clothes, you would believe him YES?

Javier

 

[idiabuse]

I just had some kid ask me to build a 460 for his mud truck.
A nice lifted 2000 F350 looks like a high dollar build.
I was told to come by and check out the parts.
I came by and saw a OEM shortblock 460 tired DOG
then a new 4.300 stroker crank
A super awesome set of original Cobra Jet 429 heads
THE REAL DEAL heads BAD TO THE BONE!
When the kid and his financier came over to chat
this is what I had to listen too.
1) I need this engine built by the 18th this month TOMMOROW
2) dont want to spend alot of money
3) it is just a mud truck used 3/4 times a year
4) can you just slap it together?

I walked away from the whole deal
It is a shame those heads will be ruined

I wonder if he got it done?


Javier

 

[icanfixall]

I would have slapped it together without the heads and have him sign off that it was not going to be done correctly. I also would have done it for the heads in trade... The only thing better than a set of 429 cobrajet heads are the super cobrajet head..... I understand your reputation is extremly important too. Sometimes we walk a fine line around that ...

 

[OLDBULL8]

We built some IIRC 429 engines for Police cars, they called them Interceptor engines, they had special heads on them. Could they be the same as the Cobra heads? Don't remember what year that was, could have been in the late 70's. The joke was, so the Feds could catch the Mustang Cobra that the moonshiners used.

 

[pt_Ranger_v8]

I've seen the light!

Well, been noodling the idea.

I don't intend to build this engine for great huge horsepower - just want reliability, and the ability to get out of my own way.

It *needs* gaskets. I don't see the point in swapping in an engine that is leaking all over the place. Oil pan, rear main, and valve cover gaskets for sure.

I might as well put a new water pump and t-stat on it. Would it be worth replacing the injectors and IP as well?

Yes, I know it's a worn engine. At least when it's on the stand and I'm changing the oil pan gasket, I'll be able to take a look at the cylinders and see if anything's *****'d. I'd like to have an idea of what's going into my driver, since there's a very good chance this will used to move across the country this year.

So, oilburners, what's your concensus? Full rebuild, or just slap it in and go? Or bacon?

 

[johneich]

Hi, if you are asking what I would do, 1) pull GPs & run a compression check, that will tell you if your bottom end is go/no go, 2) I assume you are going to replace the head gaskets, so check the heads out while off.

From there I think the rest of the answers will come to you

 

[pt_Ranger_v8]

Hi, if you are asking what I would do, 1) pull GPs & run a compression check, that will tell you if your bottom end is go/no go, 2) I assume you are going to replace the head gaskets, so check the heads out while off.

From there I think the rest of the answers will come to you

Pretty much what I was planning to do.

 

[icanfixall]

Finding out what it needs is the only real position I have to add to this. Then you decide what will ne fixed. Usually the bottom end and oil pumps are rock solid and not needing any repairs but... Its best to know and then make a decision. I do recommend this.... DO NOT USE ANY OIL PAN GASKET.... They are not factory and any gasket used will leak... The factory oem gasket was RTV.... Thats all I use and many others here have the same oppinion. Now the front and rear mains will probably need something called a speedi sleeve repair kit thats part of the seals. It installs easily on the rear crank seal surface and the front dampner seal surface... Otherwise you get another oil leak because of the grove worn in the rotating seal area. The rear seal from Ford part number is
F2TZ-6701-A... It has the sleeve in it..... Sorry but I do not have the part numbers for the front seal handy...

 

[pt_Ranger_v8]

Finding out what it needs is the only real position I have to add to this. Then you decide what will ne fixed. Usually the bottom end and oil pumps are rock solid and not needing any repairs but... Its best to know and then make a decision. I do recommend this.... DO NOT USE ANY OIL PAN GASKET.... They are not factory and any gasket used will leak... The factory oem gasket was RTV.... Thats all I use and many others here have the same oppinion. Now the front and rear mains will probably need something called a speedi sleeve repair kit thats part of the seals. It installs easily on the rear crank seal surface and the front dampner seal surface... Otherwise you get another oil leak because of the grove worn in the rotating seal area. The rear seal from Ford part number is
F2TZ-6701-A... It has the sleeve in it..... Sorry but I do not have the part numbers for the front seal handy...

Sweet! Thanks for the info

I'll definitely make sure I get the speedi-sleeve kits then.