First 750 miles, New IDI engine

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idiabuse

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So far I used 38 gallons of diesel fuel, chased loose oil pan bolts, that is about it for now.
Realizing that I am getting around the same milage as I did before the build is a real

These IDI engines are efficient engines when propely cared for.
when I first bought this truck in 1999 I would get 12 MPG city 14/15 HWY MPG. using Rotella 15w40 changed out every 2500 miles.
Since then I personally built the C-6 transmission and cleaned and inspected
the 10.25 rear diff.
Slowly I started getting improved Milage as I upgraded the lubricant's in all the component's, I even noticed an MPG improvement when I purchased a new nano fibre air filter, that I still use 5 years later.
efficency is intelligent laziness!
 

NMB2

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I am an amsoil dealer and have been for about the last 3yrs and I swear by it. I use it in everything. In my high performance/offroad stuff its hard to see MPG gains, just cooler op temps and longer use. In vehicles like my 05 civic though, in my 2nd tank of fuel after I switched it I seen a 4mpg increase from 36mpg to 40mpg, and its not uncommon for me to see 41-42mpg with the cruise on, on the highway.
 

subway

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glad it is working out for you, i would think that the power and efficiancy of the engine should improve over time as the engine breaks in. i have actually heard that you dont want to good of an oil in the engine because it can actually retard the break in process.
 

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glad it is working out for you, i would think that the power and efficiancy of the engine should improve over time as the engine breaks in. i have actually heard that you dont want to good of an oil in the engine because it can actually retard the break in process.

I usually run a conventional oil for the first 2,000 miles or 2 months. Then swap it over.
 

idiabuse

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glad it is working out for you, i would think that the power and efficiancy of the engine should improve over time as the engine breaks in. i have actually heard that you dont want to good of an oil in the engine because it can actually retard the break in process.

Look at the source of what you heard, A little retarded. maybe 30 years ago a mechanic would have problems trying to get Mobil1 to not smoke in a new engine cause the use of rough honed cylinders and cast piston rings.

My DAD restored T-Birds and he poured Mobil1 back in 1986 in his new 390 engine in a 1966 T-Bird.
At first it was OK maybe a week, then the engine smoked like crazy and he was pissed I remeber, he was pissed $50 of oil he could not use, and had to throw it away

That does not mean The Synthetic oil is the problem it means not enough information was available to the public at that time.

Now most cars come new with synthetic oil and the owners manuals now have 10,000+++ mile oil change intervals, even Jiffy lube will not be recommending 3month 3,000 mile intervals in the very near future...


Javier
 

NMB2

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Look at the source of what you heard, A little retarded. maybe 30 years ago a mechanic would have problems trying to get Mobil1 to not smoke in a new engine cause the use of rough honed cylinders and cast piston rings.

My DAD restored T-Birds and he poured Mobil1 back in 1986 in his new 390 engine in a 1966 T-Bird.
At first it was OK maybe a week, then the engine smoked like crazy and he was pissed I remeber, he was pissed $50 of oil he could not use, and had to throw it away

That does not mean The Synthetic oil is the problem it means not enough information was available to the public at that time.

Now most cars come new with synthetic oil and the owners manuals now have 10,000+++ mile oil change intervals, even Jiffy lube will not be recommending 3month 3,000 mile intervals in the very near future...


Javier

I mostly agree with that. You wont have issues with seals and gaskets in this day and age.

Most new cars come with a synthetic blend, and as you know Amsoil is a superior oil to other synthetics. There can be an issue putting Amsoil in on a fresh motor due to the low friction and wear. It can create an issue with the ring seating. Amsoil themselves recommend 3,000 miles before doing the swap. Whenever I have sold to somebody or done the switch myself on a fresh motor, I tell them to just wait about 2,000 miles.
 

idiabuse

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I wish I had the cash to purchase a new 2011 Mustang.
I would pay for the car in cash, then on delivery day I would
bring the dealer all the lubricant's for the car and tell them, let's
put this oil in before you deliver this car to my house.

If they break my balls, I will ask for my money back I go buy a Camaro


Javier
 

idiabuse

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Oil sample taken with 912 miles on the oil and engine, results coming in a few weeks.
 

NMB2

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good stuff.

are you running amsoil bypass system on it by any chance? I used one on my old PSD and it worked great. going to put on one my idi as well.
 

idiabuse

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good stuff.

are you running amsoil bypass system on it by any chance? I used one on my old PSD and it worked great. going to put on one my idi as well.

Oh ya, I am using the dual filter setup that ruins your engine cause it dont supply enough volume of oil to the engine.
Been working great for years and years LOL!
I at least have it hooked up correctly instead of backwards! and could not be happier.
I remember years ago the experts on another diesel site said how bad the dual filter setup was :rotflmao

Javier
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idiabuse

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still chugging along, getting 22 mpg city miles up to 4400 miles so far no suprises just go go go!
Time to start messing with timing and fuel, and my EGT gauge that refuse to work! :mad:

I did make it to Key West for the boat races!
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Of course My favorite team won for the fourth year in a row

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icanfixall

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Loose oil pan bolts.....:eek:;Really Now tell us did you install a cork or rubber oil pan gasket..... If so thats why you have the leaks... Its too late now because the oil has made a path. It will wick thru that path no matter how tight the joint is. Its just the nature of the oil finding a way to travel where it wants to go....
 
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