Finally got the gutted EBPV and DP on..

EMD_DRIVER

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I finally got the gutted EBPV housing and 3" downpipe on the blue 97 yesterday. The difference is night and day! I was getting 10-12MPG on average, even with the cat removed. I took the truck on a 175 mile test drive, to visit some friends and I actually have fuel left in the tank! The difference in power and EGT's is amazing. I went from 700-900* cruzing on flat road, to 500-600*. The turbo now starts to spool at around 1000RPM and sounds sweet.

If anyone has even thought about doing this mod, I would highly recommend it!

I used a Diamond Eye 3" DP and found it for $89 at Diesel Power Products

When I bought the one for my 94, it was $120, from another place. DPP offers free shipping on orders over $100, so I also got a set of Y-pipe to plenum boots for the green 97. They were only like $17. As soon as the budget allows, I'll be getting another DP for the green 97.
 

dyoung14

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Only 10-12 MPG?:eek: aint that a little bit on the low side? or was you towing something?
 

dyoung14

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That's what I was getting empty. Towing our fiver, cut it in half!

Why is your milage so bad:confused: our 95 psd is gettin like 15 or so with a bad injector, and we drive it hard hauling our tractor i think it gets around 12 or so
 

BleednBlue68

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My EBPV tube was plugged with carbon and was broken in two pieces when I bought my 99. You gutted that sensor? How do you do that? Does it help alot? I bought a new pipe from ford and it made a big difference. Gettin rid of that sensor, would that help even more?
 

zpd307

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he took out the butterfly valve that sits in the housing that is bolted to the turbo exhaust outlet. basically the downpipe clamps onto the exhaust back pressure valve housing. the ebpv closes on cold weather starts to aid in warm ups. it is known to get sticky or get stuck in the closed position, therefore causing a major restriction in the exhaust. which hurts power and fuel mileage and causes high egts because the exhaust doesnt flow as well.
the tube and sensor you are referring to helps control the valve.
 

Mutley

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I'm curious. Does gutting the EBPV wreak havoc on cold starts up here in the north or is it's effect rather minor compared to not having it at all?
 

cbarm

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I wouldnt think that it would matter at all if you had a EBPV or not. The IDI's didnt have them, and they took a few more mins to warm up. Same would go for the PSD I would think. Just let it run for a few mins more then normal for a warm up. How easy is it to remove this valve? What is a DP? I am not familiar with with some of the abreviations on here, but I managed to figure out the EBPV...hehe
 

EMD_DRIVER

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I wouldnt think that it would matter at all if you had a EBPV or not. The IDI's didnt have them, and they took a few more mins to warm up. Same would go for the PSD I would think. Just let it run for a few mins more then normal for a warm up. How easy is it to remove this valve? What is a DP? I am not familiar with with some of the abreviations on here, but I managed to figure out the EBPV...hehe


I had to wait until I removed the DP (downpipe) before I could get the EBPV housing off the turbo. There's one bolt in a very bad spot.. I waited until I was changing the DP, to gut the EBPV. I started the truck at 31*f this morning, and noticed no difference. It started just fine. I figure that if I do have any starting problems, I will just let the GP's heat for a bit longer. In the 7.3 PSD, the GP's are still heating after the WTS light goes out.
 

cbarm

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What is it that operates the EBPV?? Is it vacuum or elec. solenoid? Could one maybe rig this up somehow to use as an exhaust brake by putting a switch on the fuel pedal with a toggle on the dash? Just an idea instead of completely removing it...
 

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