Problem

[typ4]

That red crap is whats messing up the pump, it gets in the metering valve and lets the case pressure drop off IIRC and then it dies.
I bet that is what made the pump fail originally.

I assumed everyone would install a new fuel filter when changing pumps, I do everytime. But I am a diesel mechanic and one of the first things we learn is that filters are cheap.

 

[gandalf]

What is the red crap, and what is the best way to get rid of it. Since it came from the tank, it's there. It's on both sides of the filter element, so some has gone on to the IP.

How do I clean this crap out of the system?

 

[icanfixall]

Well Ken... Looks like you found whats happening.... Now fixing it is the next issue. Probably going to cost a few filters and some killier in the tanks. As the red stuff dies it will drop out in the filters.. Or drop the tanks and clean them out... Sorry but its going to be a long tuff repair. When its all done and running fine again try to add some algea killer to the system so this doesn't happen again. Once a coloney starts growing in the tanks its really tuff to get rid of it.. Some fuel stablizer may just be the right stuff for what you have. I don't feel you have ruined your pump nor the injectors so don't be concerned... Unless Russ tells you differantly... He knows way more than I do about these things.. Sure is a pretty red bunch of critters too. Funny how nature works sometimes...

 

[typ4]

You need to find some BioBor, it is an algea killer. Put it in the tanks, then buy lots of filters.
The best way would be to drain the tanks, then fill with fresh fuel and the biobor.

I just went thru this with a lift at work that had set at a rental yard, would plug a filter in 10 minutes.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

>>> PREACH PREACH PREACH <<<

Ford built these trucks to sell to the public and make a huge profit; thus, they chose to leave off several important necessities that should be priority on one's list to install, before proceeding with further guess-work and endless repetitions of the same old problems.


Before all the bells and whistles, pyrometers, boost-gauges, and such, the ABSOLUTE most important gauge that should be on a diesel engine is a mechanical fuel-pressure gauge.

Without it, all one can do is throw filters at the problem and hope it goes away.


Running a close second in importance is a good SEE-THRU SEDIMENT BOWL; GoldenRod makes the absolute best design available; it has ALL of the assets that make for good fuel maintenance.

Installed prior to the lift-pump and main fuel-filter, a good sediment-bowl will trap all that gooky crap, before it is able to clog the NON-servicable main filter.

You can look at the bowl and SEE when it needs dumping/rinsing; and, it doesn't cost a cent to rinse it out.



To get rid of and prevent future attacks of the "bugs", I highly recommend the genuine ZE-BUG magnetic "algae"-killing filters.

I fought an "algae" invasion for several months, using all manner of pour-in products, all to no avail.

I installed the ZE-BUG and have not had an issue since.

 

[dyoung14]

like i said

 

[Goofyexponent]

like i said

We gotta hand it to you....you were right!

As soon as I seen the pics on the bottom of the first page I thought back to when you said to pull the filter!

 

[RLDSL]

You are going to go through a number of filters getting rid of that infestation. I use Kill-em on a seasonal basis in my tanks to prevent that. One time after having my truck sit for an extended time during a rebuild I got a tank full and right now I'm fighting off a mess in my bed tank thAt I
m running through a pre filter before transferring it to my main tank after it decided to grow some friends.
Some kind of pre screen separator would really be a good idea that you can see into so you can know when to stop and clean it, which may be avery 25-30 miles while running fuel biocide . For what you will spend on stock filters at $35 ea it wouldn't take long to pay for a pre screen/filter setup that you can clean on the side of the road as opposed to constantly changing out filters. It might take a couple of tank fulls and a lot of stock filter changes to get all the funk collected.

 

[gandalf]

I actually found Biobor today, on a Sunday, at WestMarine. When I arrived home with that and a new filter, I was greeted with, "Change cloths, we're leaving in 5 minutes." So we set out and got to sit on the 880 parking lot, on our way to my daughter's house.

I'll start the BioBor in the morning.

Midnight Rider, you mentioned Ze-Bug filters. I googled them and got no results. Could you tell me more about them? I think the sediment bowl is a real good idea also. Did you say to put it before the filter and the lift pump? That would mean down on the frame rail.

Russ, do you think this may have caused any damage to the new IP and the new injectors? That's one of the primary questions and a major concern. Did the shop mention anything about the algae infestation when they did the pump?

My thanks to all who have helped on this disaster. I've seen a number of good suggestions, and, given time, hope to implement them.

Until tomorrow...

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Midnight Rider, you mentioned Ze-Bug filters. I googled them and got no results. Could you tell me more about them? I think the sediment bowl is a real good idea also. Did you say to put it before the filter and the lift pump? That would mean down on the frame rail.

The ZE-BUG might possibly be DE-BUG; they are made in New Zealand; the one I have came in a re-labeled VOLVO-PENTA box.


Yes, the sediment-bowl ( GoldenRod is the best ) should be ahead of the lift-pump and main fuel-filter.

You can mount it anywhere it is convenient to check/service, and route the fuel-lines to that location.

My truck has a steel flat and I have my GoldenRod mounted in the tool-box.

Put a ball-cut-off valve on both sides of the GoldenRod, such that you can shut off the fuel when servicing.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Here is GoldenRod's site :

http://www.dutton-lainson.com/products.php?cat=29&gclid=CKDZm-Sd95MCFRpknAodXSSDWw

Some info on the DE-BUG :

http://www.morison.com.au/De-Bug.htm

I got the second one in line from the left side of the picture.

Actually, I have four of them in all, for four separate trucks.

Read this and see if it doesn't look familiar to what you are seeing :

http://www.morison.com.au/clippings/4x4_June02_p.117.pdf

VOLVO/PENTA is the U.S. distributor for them.

 

[gandalf]

Thanks for the clarification on De-Bug. It looks like an interesting unit/idea. I don't fully understand how it works though. How does it kill cells through magnetism? I've had full body MRI scans, using, I'm sure, much more powerful magnets, and I've walked away. I don't really understand the process.

This morning I added BioBor to both tanks, filled a new filter with ATF, and ran the engine for half an hour. I could take it up to 2500 rpm and let it down slowly and all was well. If I let it down quickly it would die. I pulled the fuel filter, checked it for sludge, and filled it with Diesel Kleen. Same result. It still dies when I let off the pedal too quickly.

How long does it take for the metering valve to come unstuck?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

How long does it take for the metering valve to come unstuck?

I don't fully understand the reasoning behind the magnetics getting rid of the bugs; all I know is that it solved the problem for me.


So far as the injector-pump is concerned, nothing, not even the "algae", should be able to get past the main fuel-filter and into the injector-pump.

I believe you have two completely separate problems at play, one is a bug infection and the other is a mechanical problem with the pump adjustments.

 

[dyoung14]

I don't fully understand the reasoning behind the magnetics getting rid of the bugs; all I know is that it solved the problem for me.


So far as the injector-pump is concerned, nothing, not even the "algae", should be able to get past the main fuel-filter and into the injector-pump.

I believe you have two completely separate problems at play, one is a bug infection and the other is a mechanical problem with the pump adjustments.

Algea got past my fuel filter i have the dead ip to prove it, an almost 500 dollars burned up,

 

[The Warden]

For what it's worth, I had some metering valve issues with my pump that cropped up immediately after fueling up at a Shell station. The engine wouldn't die, but when I'd let off the throttle, the engine RPM would get uncomfortably low before picking back up. A bunch of PowerService and a few tanks of better fuel corrected the problem, but it didn't go away immediately. The fuel also fouled up my FSS and timing advance solenoids; I ended up needing to pull the top cover from the pump and work both solenoids by hand to get things working smoothly again.

Seems like every time I've fueled at a Shell station, I've ended up regretting it (I've had problems with Shell diesel in my car as well, and these problems were from multiple stations)...so, I don't buy diesel from them anymore.

FWIW...

Midnight, are those sediment bowls also filters with replaceable elements, or how exactly does that work? Is there any advantage to this setup over a "traditional" Racor filter? Lastly, what size/GPM rating would be best for our engines, do you think? I'd like to put a "real" filter in place of the water separator, and that might be a good candidate...thanks!