Looking at a Uhauler. Need some advice.

[vegas39]

I drove the first one and it seems to be in good shape minus a few things.
The engine runs great! The knock I thought I heard was actually the air compressor.
It's going to need two bags soon. It has two new tires on the front, and the rears have about 5/32 left. The truck is fairly dry. The "Brake pressure" light came on while I was driving and the pedal seemed high??
The left front caliper seems to be sticking. The GM of the store said he will check it all out for me. This truck still has current registration, inspection and tags.

THEN I found a service truck!! It's the same truck with an INSULATED and lit box, shelves, oil/ fuel tanks, a heater. It even has a retractable awning on the back! The engine looks new. It has an orange intake and oil pan. There was no belt on the air compressor. This truck had noticeably less power than the first one I drove. It has dual exhaust too
The interior is better with an aftermarket radio, tinted windows and vent visors. Speedo isn't working, alternator gauge stuck on 12V till I was on my way back and then it eased up to 14V.
It also has running lights all up and down the side of it like some semis do. It's been off the road since 2007.

When I went to look at ours, they had about 25 of them sitting in the yard and he let me keep test driving them until I found one that was near perfect.
You may not have that kind of selection where you ar at. Either way, I think they are a good strong truck at a great price.

 

[philadelphia]

NIce find but im partial..ive been driving mine daily but its wheelbase is shorter than factory and the truck is shorter overall.

The bags have a special part number, id check to be sure the rear leving system is in good working order.The valve sticks sometimes on me leaving me dropped..

check the hinges on the hood too for wear.


parts are easy as the dealer so thats a good thing.

Dont worry too much about the saying of uhauls..How often do you see anybody outside of an owner operator take care of stuff.Uhuals get abused but not like work truck do..reasoning is that uhuals are driven by renters who dont feel big headed..Guys who drive company trucks think they can whip them like cars..

 

[EvilM0nkey]

Are the airbags reasonable for me to replace? (I've been working in a dealership shop for the past 8 years) I'm thinking I could just pump the bags all the way up wedge something between the axle and frame (or the frame to the ground), deflate the bags and replace them. Is that realistic?

I'm leaning more towards the 1st truck. There is still the other one with the new engine that I want to drive, but I don't like or trust the GM at that store. That truck hasn't been started in months (no batteries) and when he starts them he waits for the GP light to go off, floors it and cranks it up, holds the gas there for a few seconds and lets off

The first stuck is started and driven about once a month and I know the GM there has a clue about diesels.
Opinions?

 

[philadelphia]

Yea the bags seem easy to replace..A guy on another board i frequent has the part number from firestone..i will get it for you.

 

[EvilM0nkey]

Yea the bags seem easy to replace..A guy on another board i frequent has the part number from firestone..i will get it for you.

Any luck?

 

[EvilM0nkey]

Got it
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5730698

Tonights Update - Remove air bag... some nice pics for scott actually wasn't that bad, took ~1.5 hours to get one all the way out and the other 1/2 out.. It was getting dark and i only really need part#s..

Here's the scope...
1) Air up rear suspension. Insert HD jack stands and pull dump valve to low onto stands.. too easy...
2) pull rear ramp out a few feet, remove the bolts holding the rear ramp tray in. 2 on each side. 3/4" socket on the impact. (no nut on back side, threaded into bracket) Loosen the 2 bolts 1/2 way to the rear that support the tray. Lift tray and jam 2x4 in to hold up...

You must be registered for see images attach

3) Of the 2 bolts colosets in pic. remove the bottom 1 and loosen the top one. Also remove nut for air bag plate (all using 3/4" socket wrenches)

You must be registered for see images attach

4) Remove lower bolts, one in front and rear of crossmember.

You must be registered for see images attach

5) Fold up bracket and zip tie out of way. I did this so i would't forget what bolts when where, alignment etc.. I always seem to get interupted with these things, plus i could take a few weeks to get the parts here.. Also why i only did 1/2 the other side

Remove air fitting 5/8" wrench and spin out 90deg elbow, remove large locking nut and lock washer.. Use pry bar and wiggle out air bag...

You must be registered for see images attach

6) Look its out... wasn't to bad..

You must be registered for see images attach

epoxy - good to know about the water, im using Raca brand. no glass, or thickeners, just resin to soak in and seal the plywood, scott/snookywheels suggested it and im glad im doing it can see how it helps..


Truck Weights
My '89 truck sticker gvrw is 17,998 # but the front axle is 6,000# and rear us 15,500# dana/spicer axle, for a max axle capacity of 21,500# (The G 19.5 tires are well over that)

I'm likly to be close to the max sticker 18k, im tring to keep some tabs on the weights im adding. I have yet to scale it so im not sure of the weights, but based on an old registration unladen weight is 11,580#

so based on that and the known weight of my jeep @ 4200
Max 17998
Truck 11570
Jeep 4200
passangers/gear 600
= 1628 for the RV construction
(not this doesn't count removed items etc..)
So with that as a reference, i should be ok as long as i don't go bonzi with the interior..

FWIW: the guy i got one from had a 88 and it had aluminum sides that were double walled and appeared impossible to repair without taking it apart etc.. this seemed to match what i saw online/ebay etc.. '89 newer had the FRP sides, also 90/91 they started using a slightly more areodynamic hood on other internationals, i believe they swap, but im not sure if U-haul used them or not... good luck...

There's plenty of room in the U-haul toter club

 

[EvilM0nkey]

Tonights Update - Remove air bag... some nice pics for scott actually wasn't that bad, took ~1.5 hours to get one all the way out and the other 1/2 out.. It was getting dark and i only really need part#s..

Here's the scope...
1) Air up rear suspension. Insert HD jack stands and pull dump valve to low onto stands.. too easy...
2) pull rear ramp out a few feet, remove the bolts holding the rear ramp tray in. 2 on each side. 3/4" socket on the impact. (no nut on back side, threaded into bracket) Loosen the 2 bolts 1/2 way to the rear that support the tray. Lift tray and jam 2x4 in to hold up...

You must be registered for see images attach

3) Of the 2 bolts colosets in pic. remove the bottom 1 and loosen the top one. Also remove nut for air bag plate (all using 3/4" socket wrenches)

You must be registered for see images attach

4) Remove lower bolts, one in front and rear of crossmember.

You must be registered for see images attach

5) Fold up bracket and zip tie out of way. I did this so i would't forget what bolts when where, alignment etc.. I always seem to get interupted with these things, plus i could take a few weeks to get the parts here.. Also why i only did 1/2 the other side

Remove air fitting 5/8" wrench and spin out 90deg elbow, remove large locking nut and lock washer.. Use pry bar and wiggle out air bag...

You must be registered for see images attach

6) Look its out... wasn't to bad..

You must be registered for see images attach

epoxy - good to know about the water, im using Raca brand. no glass, or thickeners, just resin to soak in and seal the plywood, scott/snookywheels suggested it and im glad im doing it can see how it helps..


Truck Weights
My '89 truck sticker gvrw is 17,998 # but the front axle is 6,000# and rear us 15,500# dana/spicer axle, for a max axle capacity of 21,500# (The G 19.5 tires are well over that)

I'm likly to be close to the max sticker 18k, im tring to keep some tabs on the weights im adding. I have yet to scale it so im not sure of the weights, but based on an old registration unladen weight is 11,580#

so based on that and the known weight of my jeep @ 4200
Max 17998
Truck 11570
Jeep 4200
passangers/gear 600
= 1628 for the RV construction
(not this doesn't count removed items etc..)
So with that as a reference, i should be ok as long as i don't go bonzi with the interior..

FWIW: the guy i got one from had a 88 and it had aluminum sides that were double walled and appeared impossible to repair without taking it apart etc.. this seemed to match what i saw online/ebay etc.. '89 newer had the FRP sides, also 90/91 they started using a slightly more areodynamic hood on other internationals, i believe they swap, but im not sure if U-haul used them or not... good luck...

There's plenty of room in the U-haul toter club

Part #s ive been able to locate... Guy at local HD truck repair place said "nope couldn't get these" ummm ya ok.. I guess the 50 big rigs outside never need parts...

Truckspring.com lists these part #s for the airsprings.
Note: The bags on my truck list the 566-24-3-067 # so this is definitly it..

Firestone Bellows Number: 1T15LC-2.5
Goodyear Part Number: 1R12-178
Goodyear Bellows Number: 566-24-3-067
Triangle Part Number: 8379
Triangle Bellows Number: 6368
Navistar Number: 1660694C-1
Note: (U-Haul)


Other web site
http://www.daytonparts.com/_Goodyear_Airspring/GY_bydim.asp?type=r
has listings but i need to pull the number off the bottom bell...

------------
rear pinoin seal....
he did give me a part # of 1654875C1 (pre 91' seal)
Google didn't show anything for this # so Ill try napa today.. (see if they can help with the bags also)

Scott - have you located any other misc. part #s for your truck?

And the part numbers