Electrical vs. Mechanical Gauges

hesutton

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also Is that an extra fuel level gauge in ther Heath?

I believe that is a fuel pressure gauge, to monitor the Holly Red, is that correct Heath?

Yup, it is a fuel pressure gauge. 0-15 psi. It is a great way to generically monitor the fuel system in general. The sender is located in the filter head in the same gally as the supply to the IP.

Also, HERE IS A LINK with some useful insight into why a voltmeter is handy to have in the cab.

Heath
 

Chevyboy_0

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Wow I had no idea having an ammeter could end up that bad. Thanks for the link Heath.

So I'm planning on getting extra gauges for my truck and right now all I have is a Pyro, so I also want a Water temp, oil pressure, voltmeter, anything else I should consider? I'd rather have too many then not enough espe ially when it comes to keeping the truck alive
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Of course, a water-temperature and oil-pressure gauge are necessary to monitor engine-killing statistics.

After those two, I consider a fuel-pressure gauge plumbed between the filter and injection-pump to be a vital trouble-shooting tool and, when constantly monitored, will also fore-warn you of an impending engine shut-down.

If you tow heavy, a pyrometer is necessary to let you know when you should gear-down and wind it up, sucking more cooling air through the cylinders, to prevent a piston melt-down.

Read HESutton's link about the volt-meter; just the other day, the volt-meter in the wife's truck let us know that the regulator had quit, letting me know to fix it instead of her heading out and getting stranded.

Vacuum-gauges are also real handy trouble-shooters; I have two, one for truck-vacuum, one for trailer-vacuum.

A boost-gauge is kinda cool and will fore-warn you of turbo failure, maybe before it disentegrates and kills an engine.

Tachometer is nice to have.

For heavy towing, a manual transmission temperature and rear differential temperature gauge is quite handy.

Clock to know what time it is.

Outside thermometer lets you know when that rain is going to become ice.

A compass lets you know that you are going North when you actually wanted to go South.

A fuel-gauge for the auxilliary tank.

Air-pressure gauge for the on-board air reservoir.


I can go on and on.;Sweet
 

hesutton

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Of course, a water-temperature and oil-pressure gauge are necessary to monitor engine-killing statistics.

After those two, I consider a fuel-pressure gauge plumbed between the filter and injection-pump to be a vital trouble-shooting tool and, when constantly monitored, will also fore-warn you of an impending engine shut-down.

I couldn't agree more.;Sweet I really have been surprised with how useful the fuel pressure gauge has been.........and I'll likely have one on any future diesel I own.

Heath
 
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Chevyboy_0

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I have a feeling it's quite obvious but why exactly is a fuel press gauge important? Just so you can monitor fuel pressure? Sorry for the stupid question but I've always used fuel press gauges to help with tuning my gasser and I have it plumbed in directly to the carb at the inlets after the pump.
 

geonc

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For you guys worried about a pressurized mechanical gauge inside the cab, Summitt has a diaphram type adaptor that connects and to the pressure line

;ie..gas/oil/diesel and from the diaphram there is a tube you fill with a diluted mix of anti freeze {glycol based} and that in turn operates the mechanical gauge :thumbsup:

In the for what is worth dept :D I have been running mechanical gauges in my rigs since '83 and have installed MANY mechanical gauges in engine rooms where just the paint job -Awlgrip =$250+ a gallon-- on both engines that operate at 75 psi, and marine gears that run 200 psi +....so long as common sense is used and not relying on cheap hose/fittings...

I have yet to SEE ONE FAIL and fill the bilge with 10 gallons of hot oil :eek:


Just my couple pennies :cheers:
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I have a feeling it's quite obvious but why exactly is a fuel press gauge important? Just so you can monitor fuel pressure? Sorry for the stupid question but I've always used fuel press gauges to help with tuning my gasser and I have it plumbed in directly to the carb at the inlets after the pump.


Properly mounted and monitored, a fuel-pressure gauge is the indicator of the condition of the lift-pump and filter.

Actually TWO are even better than one; the second gauge need not be in the cab, just screwed into the system where it can be read from under the hood.

ONE gauge, plumbed between the filter and injection-pump, will tell you when there is filter blockage or a weak lift-pump.

TWO gauges, one EACH SIDE of the filter, will tell you if the problem is the filter or something ahead of the filter.

That second gauge can be bought for about the cost of a filter and the first time it keeps you from guessing wrong and replacing a good filter, it has payed for itself.


In my truck, the normal fuel-pressure with the piston-lift-pump is 15- to 16-PSI.

A quick burst of power might pull it down to 10-PSI for a second.

When I notice the normal operating pressure gradually losing ground, I know that most likely the filter is beginning to plug with debris.

When it drops to a constant 10-PSI or thereabouts, I know that it is time for a new filter.

If the engine shuts down, or is starving for fuel, the dash gauge tells me that pressure is way down; a comparison with the pre-filter gauge will tell me if the problem is the filter or something before the filter, such as line blockage or a break in a line. (it is NEVER the lift-pump when that lift-pump is a piston-pump:backoff)


Let's say the wire to the fuel-solenoid has a bad connection (providing the solenoid hasn't been done away with and a KILL-CABLE installed), and this bad connection shuts the fuel off, thereby shutting off the engine.

You crank and crank and no start.

The know-it-all bystanders will aver that you should replace the filter; you hitch a ride to town, buy a new filter, put it on, and still no start; now they will blame the injection-pump itself and have your belly all in knots over nothing.

As soon as the engine died, a few rounds of cranking would have brought the fuel-pressure gauge up to normal operating status and you would have instantly known that there was no problem there and to look elsewhere.;Sweet
 

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