Help major tranny leak

[Austin86250]

can anybody link me a complete written out steps to remove a 2wd c6 from 6.9?
I'm having trouble finding a complete guide all i can find is the shaky one angle poorly explained yt videos from the early 2000's

 

[captain720]

Drain tranny
Pull driveshaft
Pull shifter widget
Remove vac/cooler lines
Remove inspection plate
Support trans
Pull dipstick
Speedo cable
Pull x member
Remove exhaust as needed
Unbolt converter
Unbolt trans
Slide it back and lower it


Probably forgot something but someone will remind me in sure

 

[gnathv]

Block your engine so it remains stationary when you remove transmission, keeping it at this angle helps during reinstallation and is safer for your body parts.

 

[Big Bart]

FYI these work really nice if you have to do a tranny on the ground. Much better than a floor Jack or scissor Jack.(Safer too.) The wheels are farther apart and all four wheels rotate 360*. The handle rotes 360*. The plate has a tilt function. Comes with a safety chain but think about using ratchet straps too.

They are a little pricey but large and heavy duty so you will get why the big price when you see it. I see them frequently on CL and Offer up if you do not want to buy new.

If you do want a new one find out when HF is having a sale or perhaps if they have a coupon. I think I got mine for like $250.

2000 lb. Low-Profile Transmission Jack

Amazing deals on this 2000Lb Low-Profile Transmission Jack at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Austin86250]

Here’s what it looks like behind the inspection cover not sure if that helps anything but here it is

 

[Big Bart]

Here’s what it looks like behind the inspection cover not sure if that helps anything but here it is

I think once you get it out and the torque converter out you will be able assess the situation better. The pick just shows a leak but hard to know where.

 

[gnathv]

Most likely it’s the front seal. Don’t get the cheapest, get the viton seal. Do a little research, the other style and material are problematic.

You must be registered for see images attach

This item Transmission Parts Direct (E9TZ-7A248-B) E4OD/4R100/AODE/4R70/4R75: Front Pump Seal (VITON)

 

[captain720]

I would do a trans mount if your pulling the trans, cheap and easy to do so may as well.

 

[Big Bart]

Most likely it’s the front seal. Don’t get the cheapest, get the viton seal. Do a little research, the other style and material are problematic.

You must be registered for see images attach

This item Transmission Parts Direct (E9TZ-7A248-B) E4OD/4R100/AODE/4R70/4R75: Front Pump Seal (VITON)

Just a reminder, Austin has a C6, but perhaps they use the same one as the E40D above.

But GNATHV has a good point about using VITON.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

From what I know, they don't use the same seals.

 

[Austin86250]

from what my research has brought back there is no "front main seal" for the c6 just input shaft seal front pump seal and torque converter seal

also is there a seal that can go bad from poor installation? the previous owner said that the trans is from a junk yard and his previous work has um lets say hasn't been the best

 

[IDIBRONCO]

from what my research has brought back there is no "front main seal" for the c6 just input shaft seal front pump seal and torque converter seal

The front seal that we're talking about is the one that the torque convertor rides against. The National part number for this seal is 331107N.

 

[Big Bart]

from what my research has brought back there is no "front main seal" for the c6 just input shaft seal front pump seal and torque converter seal

also is there a seal that can go bad from poor installation? the previous owner said that the trans is from a junk yard and his previous work has um lets say hasn't been the best

Yes you can put a seal in wrong, not flush, or damage it installing it. (I had my tranny rebuilt on my F150. The front seal came out 100 miles later, asked the rebuilder was his tech rushing the job?) One could replace the front seal and clean off the TC, then forget to lube the seal, it could fail due to friction before ATF worked back under it. So be sure to lube up the seal and TC once you have the new seal in.

But most likely this guy just bought it with the TC and just slammed them in without taking off the TC to inspect. As you are finding out that was the best time to do the front TC seal and rear seal. Now its your PITA to pull it and do the job right!

These C6's are pretty easy to pull. (Not much to disconnect, easy to get to, lots of rooom around them.) One thing to be carefull of, at least on the big block gassers, maybe not so on the diesels. (Ask me how I know?) They have two centering holes on the edge of the case for steel dowels that protrude from the engine block. It is easy to crack the case there. (The outer part of the hole just busts off, it does not spider the case. FYI You can still use the case if they crack, but it is better to have these in tact so it centers better.) So do not yank left to right and up and down. It's ok to move 2 inches right and left or up down to wiggle them loose. If you use a pry bar do so a little on one side a little on the other. But do not just pry off one side too far. If the tranny is pulled to far left or right the dowel will push ******* the case and crack off the outer part of the hole. You could also could perhaps leave two bolts in till you clear the dowels, then pull the bolts. That would help get the tranny off the dowels and keep it more aligned till you do.

 

[Austin86250]

Finally to the removal process
Almost finished pulling her but these shift linkages are proving a challenge
How are y’all getting them off?

 

[Big Bart]

The sides with the plastic bushings let the shaft pop off. WD40 them and pry them out with a large screw driver or pry bar. They will fight you but will pop off. Maybe also try channel locks to press them out. I think one side off the shift system also bolts on the tranny and I do not recall if you have to loosen that off the tranny or if it will come with it.