starter system issues

[IDIBRONCO]

3) Hopefully 2 new batteries will have you back on the road.

Yes they should always be replaced as a pair. If not, the weaker battery will drain the better battery.

 

[Austin86250]

its quite the odd thing the main battery is rated for 800 cca and says 2016 but 4 different places have tested it and every time it says 1010 cca, the driver side battery was so far gone at 500 cca but only 2018

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I think maybe the 800cca battery may have accidentally gotten the wrong sticker at the plant where it was made.

 

[Austin86250]

thank you all for your help, new battery and starter solenoid later i got it started
now on to ignition i had to roll it all the way forward to get "acc" then manually push the rod to get "run" and jump the solenoid to get it to start
not sure where to start there it really wasnt perfect before you didnt need a key to start it and it didnt kick back from the start position and rolling the key backwards did nothing

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That really sounds like the ignition switch itself down low on the column to me.

 

[Big Bart]

I agree start with a new switch and then access if the lock cylinder or rod need to be addressed.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That really sounds like the ignition switch itself down low on the column to me.

I agree start with a new switch and then access if the lock cylinder or rod need to be addressed.

Although if the rod moves freely by hand, then it could be the actuator that attaches to the back of the key switch.

 

[77 F-250]

Sounds like the solenoid at the starter. The power cable at the starter is always hot. Its not like a gasser, no bendex.
The solenoid/relay on the fender is for accessories. Turning the key to start energizes the starter solenoid pushing the pinion gear onto the flywheel. than a set of contacts makes sending power to the starter motor. Made so starter won't spin unless pinion is engaged.
Couple of tests;
Use a screwdriver to jump the 2 big lugs at the starter.
Test voltage on small wire at the starter with key to start, should be battery voltage.
DB had starters in stock last week.

 

[77 F-250]

The voltage at the starters small wire will let you know if its the key switch or solenoid.

 

[Austin86250]

The voltage at the starters small wire will let you know if its the key switch or solenoid.

it was the solenoid on the fender

 

[Austin86250]

Although if the rod moves freely by hand, then it could be the actuator that attaches to the back of the key switch.

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/ignition-switch/bn/4294730274

this?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

No. Try Dorman part number 83280.

 

[Austin86250]

No. Try Dorman part number 83280.

my research has brought up that only tilt columns have ignition actuators
mine is not tilt
so leaning more to your ignition switch theory

i really wish i was near my truck right now to get a video of this but i played around with it more and can maybe describe in better detail than before

"backwards" nothing happens "acc" and "run" also nothing all the way to the "start" position turns the glow plugs on from then on i can grab the ignition rod and push it forward to start it up. with the key all the way forward which "runs" the glow plugs it acts like "acc" where i only have radio and i only have the first 2 gears on the column "park and reverse" like when the truck is off

should note my truck has never needed a key for the ignition. same results with or without the key
another note "backwords" and "acc" has never worked either
yet another note this all happened when i asked my dad to hold the key in the start position and when i came over he was really forcing it

aren't old farm trucks just the best

 

[Austin86250]

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got a video (after replacing ignition switch)
It’s pretty much the same issue except I now have the backwards position and now I actually need a key to turn the ignition so an improvement
Perhaps installation error?

While the igntion ain’t right the real issue is that keeps it from driving even when running I only have park and reverse
My neutral safety switch has been giving me issues for a while now so I went and ordered one

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[Big Bart]

We see this on the site from time to time. There is not one problem, rather several that compound/complicate the diagnosis and repair. For you it was bad batteries, potentially a solenoid, bad ignition switch, and mechanicals to it.

The good news is you are knocking them out one by one.

BTW it looks like you have tilt steering. These style columns don’t have a separate tilt release arm. You use the turn signal switch arm and pull or push it. (Can’t remember off hand. I think pull it.) So be careful not to break it but I think you will find you have tilt steering if you try.