NEED HELP ASAP ELECTRICAL ISSUE

Order complete wiring kit and do it that way or just chop and replace as I go?

  • chop and repair

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • complete kit

    Votes: 2 66.7%

  • Total voters
    3

H3LLSP4WN

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I have 1985 f250 passing ground in the lighting system last time this happened it was a bad bulb passing the ground this time I cant find the cause I am thinking of completely gutting the exterior wiring and e wiring engine and then work my way inside to the cab and then o the tail lights there are too many splices done by previous owner and I am having trouble tracing wires due to this complication any thoughts
 

Philip1

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Depending on how bad the wiring is, it might be worth pulling the harnesses and rebuilding them, so long as you are only talking about exterior harness you do not want to pull the interior if at all possible, but it would have to be pretty bad to justify it. Just remember to mark where every connectior goes and make sure you have plenty of time where you do not need the truck.
 

Scotty4

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Start with the fuseible links, go to the fuses and find which circuit has the problem, then start at the closest connector and work towards each device. You can single out wires after that or sockets for lights or switches/relays. Its daunting and annoying but you can always run temp wiring in a pinch or rewire.
 

catbird7

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I'm not a wiring expert however the lighting circuit on these trucks is a known issue. Typical failure points are the headlight switch and the dimmer switch. Again I'm not a wiring guy however most common advice for correcting is replacement of failed switches followed by a wiring harness upgrade kit that relieves the load on both switches. LMC advertises the kit as "Heavy Duty Headlight Harness", it's like $30 bucks and says it's "plug & play" no splicing required.
 

Kizer

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it's like $30 bucks and says it's "plug & play"

If it's the same one Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells, it's chinesium.
Had I known that I'd have built my own relay wiring with Weather Pack parts .

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Selahdoor

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Exactly why I built my own from scratch, from the get go.

I used bigger wire, and better parts.
 

catbird7

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Looks good! ( Of course I'm referring to the nearly full and slightly frosted beverage)
 

H3LLSP4WN

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I have those backwards cluster illum9ination is 17 and warning lamps is 18
 

H3LLSP4WN

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i have grounds on multiple wires it is the light green/ white at the instrument panel connector , yellow/white at instrument panel connector, red/ green at fuse block the main wire feeding it, and red/ light green wire at the injector there is a connector under the steering wheel that also has a ground on 2 blue wires look like it is suppose to be a twisted pair on the same pin these diagrams I have are not doing it does anyone have better schematics like true master schematic if at all possible thanks or if you can point me to the location feeding these wires that would be a great help thanks
 

Clb

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First
Chineezium only makes "heavy" duty...
This translated in English= as CHEAP as it could be made to survive the shipping.

That said some oldies
Connecting a Test light in line on batt. Ground will show a drain (IF LAMP GLOWS).
The Multi meter is your friend.
Detach main ground, clean, do the same on every one you can touch.
Best of luck, I wish p.o. Were not allowed to TOUCH ANY WIRE IN THEIR VEHICLES
 

H3LLSP4WN

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I am looking at the yellow/white that goes to fuel tank light green/white is the left turn signal indicator on the dash and i still don't know where the 2 blue wires go they go to the warning buzzer for key in ignition door open i had a key in the ignition that is why the ground was there thanks all for the help I've figured it out and I will update with all repairs later I also need new glow plugs and relay I'm going to replace the controller as well was wondering if it smarter to convert to 7.3 controller or keep everything original
 
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