Timing my 7.3 N/a IDI

[ISPKI]

Hey guys,

So in my epic quest to try and get this damn truck to be reliable, I have installed a new high torque starter, new 4/0 + and - cables, new GP harness, tons of new clean electrical, new duralift facet pump, fuel lines, filters, GPs.

Truck barely starts even with a 200amp charger helping keep the batteries alive.

Billows a good amount of grey smoke and kind of coughs over and over but its a struggle everytime I try and start it. I do not see any fuel leaks currently.

I went to check my timing and found that the timing mark on my IP is at about the 4 oclock position. That seems as though it is massively off from the factory mark, its a good 25-30 degrees rotated towards the driver side. I am looking into adjusting that back closer to the mark on the timing cover but can this thing really adjust that much? When rotating it, arent I rotating the entire pump housing or does the housing not rotate?

 

[Dane Rickford]

The entire pump rotated when adjusted the timing. For the amount of movement needed to get the timing marks lined up, you may have to loosen the injector lines a bit to move the pump

 

[ISPKI]

The entire pump rotated when adjusted the timing. For the amount of movement needed to get the timing marks lined up, you may have to loosen the injector lines a bit to move the pump

Geez, OK. I took another look at the marks and its more like 2:30ish or so. i'll get a picture.

 

[ISPKI]

So I got in there and cleaned it up a bit more, looks like there is a 2nd timing mark on the housing side.

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[Dane Rickford]

So I got in there and cleaned it up a bit more, looks like there is a 2nd timing mark on the housing side.

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That’s interesting. I’ve never seen dual timing marks like that before. You could line up the two marks on the side and see how that runs. Although that would retard the timing, and you engine seems to already have the signs of retarded timing. Personally, if it was my truck, I would advance the timing by rotating the pump about a 16th of an inch to the passenger side and then see how it starts. That’s just my two cents, I hope someone with more experience with me can give some insight

 

[Dane Rickford]

That’s just my two cents, I hope someone with more experience with me can give some insight

I meant more experience than me. I’m still not entirely used to using a “smart” phone

 

[chillman88]

Loosen those three bolts that hold the IP to the gear housing. Then rotate the entire IP towards the passenger side. As was previously mentioned, you may need to loosen the injection lines.

As hard as your truck is starting, I'd try a little more than 1/16 simply because it sounds like it's WAY off. Mine was fully retarded and it still started ok, just took a while. I eventually had to advance it all the way to get it close to spec. That IP was pretty worn out.

It's possible your IP is just on its last legs though, so be prepared for that possibility.

Do you know how old the IP is?

 

[ISPKI]

Loosen those three bolts that hold the IP to the gear housing. Then rotate the entire IP towards the passenger side. As was previously mentioned, you may need to loosen the injection lines.

As hard as your truck is starting, I'd try a little more than 1/16 simply because it sounds like it's WAY off. Mine was fully retarded and it still started ok, just took a while. I eventually had to advance it all the way to get it close to spec. That IP was pretty worn out.

It's possible your IP is just on its last legs though, so be prepared for that possibility.

Do you know how old the IP is?

Hey, my IP looks like it is rotated towards passenger side several degrees already. There is no way I could get the IP mark to line up with the top housing mark, my IP would be sideways at that point.

I had been assuming my IP was original, 158k on it, but based on the timing mark issue I am not so sure. I thought the factory IPs were always lined up to the top housing mark. I wonder if this one had been replaced and someone added marks at a different location. Scratching my head on that one, the marks are very cleanly stamped, not scratched like a backyard mechanic might do.

So, rotating IP towards passenger side advances timing, rotating to the driver side retards timing.

Signs of retarded timing is poor MPG, hard starting, lots of grey smoke?

Signs of advanced timing are what?

I have also read that installing a duralift pump advances timing by a few degrees? I wonder if my new electric pump has pushed the IP just passed where it can start properly.

 

[DaveBen]

The line that does NOT move is the reference mark, or ZERO degrees. You want the moveable timing mark towards the passengers side. Keep moving it toward the passengers side until it starts. Drive it and make your determination based on how it runs.

 

[chillman88]

Hey, my IP looks like it is rotated towards passenger side several degrees already. There is no way I could get the IP mark to line up with the top housing mark, my IP would be sideways at that point.

Don't worry about the lines, they're just for reference. You really should get a timing meter on it, but I understand it's not always possible. As fuel components wear the actual degree numbers change, which is why you need a meter. Should be able to get it better than it is now by ear though.

Advanced timing is really clattery, hard starting, and excessive black smoke. Possibly more but that's just from memory.

 

[Dane Rickford]

I’ll be pulling some loads with my truck later today. I can get a short video of it idling and post it so that you have a close idea to what noises these engines make. Granted I haven’t got mine timed with a meter yet, but I did play with the timing for about a month until I found the spot with optimal performance and mileage. If you think a video of it running would help you get yours timed by ear it’s no problem for me to do

 

[Dane Rickford]

Here’s a little sound clip of a healthy idle:

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[Dane Rickford]

Here’s a little sound clip of a healthy idle:

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The video didn’t upload. I’ll try again:

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[ISPKI]

Don't worry about the lines, they're just for reference. You really should get a timing meter on it, but I understand it's not always possible. As fuel components wear the actual degree numbers change, which is why you need a meter. Should be able to get it better than it is now by ear though.

Advanced timing is really clattery, hard starting, and excessive black smoke. Possibly more but that's just from memory.

Yeah I know what you mean. I would love to get it timed, im sure no one has ever bothered in the truck's life span. But, I dont know where to get the tools to do it, not alot of IDI folks out here in CT.

 

[ISPKI]

So, I adjusted timing maybe a quarter's width or slightly more towards passenger side and boom, truck fired up in a single crank rotation. I dont think ive ever had it fire that easily before since i have owned it.

It is also much quieter and smoother running. Previously, it sounded like shaking a paint can and I couldnt hardly maintain a conversation anywhere near it, especially when cold. Also - Whenever I would start it up cold, it would billow clouds of grey smoke and I mean absolutely billow it, like blanket my back yard in smoke.

It had a very minimal amount of smoke at startup which very quickly cleared up to the point that I could just barely notice some whisps coming out of the pipe.

Now, I have another issue. The throttle cable/linkage is getting jammed on something. I can get the truck to rev to about 1800rpm but my cable gets jammed and I cant press it down more than half an inch or so.

I took a look at the linkages but I dont see anything snagging on it. The plastic insert for the throttle cable is broken into several pieces but I dont really see anything hanging up. Its odd, I get maybe 15 degrees of rotation out of it before it stops. Now, I kind of stomped on it a bit and it freed up but if I let the pedal up all the way to shift, then it jams again and I have to kind of slap the thing. This truck is never ending problems but hopefully I can fix them one by one