obd reader
- Thread starter Selahdoor
- Start date
BeastMaster
Full Access Member
The PCM protocol pre-dates OBDII.
I believe there is a simple way of pulling codes with a jumper wire and counting flashes of a test light or wags of a meter needle.
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=reading+e4od+trouble+codes
I believe there is a simple way of pulling codes with a jumper wire and counting flashes of a test light or wags of a meter needle.
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=reading+e4od+trouble+codes
I have a reader from Amazon and it works fine the few times I have used it. Directions that come with it says it doesn’t work on my 94 7.3 idi but I think they are talking about 94 7.3 di.
INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EW0KHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zo8ADbN6EQK5Y
INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EW0KHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zo8ADbN6EQK5Y
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I think you're right on this one. First, IIRC, the PSD uses an OBDII connector for the OBDI computer. Second, the 94 and some of the 95 PSDs are hard to get anything to do much with their computers. The shop I worked at had a NGS Star scan tool (that was supposed to be what Ford used). It would do WAY more with a 96/97 PSD computer. Some of the 1995s worked that way too. It was probably the build date that made the difference.
I have a 94 na and have this exact reader. Works perfect. I highly recommend getting the extension cable. No it's not necessary but makes life nicer.
Now that I have used it I can definitely see where the extension cord would make it more convenient. Not sure what book you’re talking about? The reader comes with a book that has the instructions for the unit and all the codes and how the system works.
There's a haynes manual recommended to go with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Haynes-compu...ystems+1s&qid=1570927669&s=books&sr=1-1-fkmr0
https://www.amazon.com/Haynes-compu...ystems+1s&qid=1570927669&s=books&sr=1-1-fkmr0
This. I've got the same one as well, does the trick on my '90 & '94 idit. Recommend the extension cable, you can sit in the cab or drive with it hooked up on the dash.
mu2bdriver
Full Access Member
I struggled without the extension cord for over a year until I realized how much easier it was to sit in the cab of the truck and work through issues. The extension cord is as valuable as the reader.
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Going to need to use this again today.
I have a question, first.
The instructions say, plug in reader. Turn on key. Do not start engine. Read codes.
That's it.
But I have read a couple places on here, something about not getting accurate codes, if you don't depress the go pedal.
Is that true?
If so, do you depress the pedal before you turn the key on, or after? Do you just hold the pedal down, or release it?
I have a question, first.
The instructions say, plug in reader. Turn on key. Do not start engine. Read codes.
That's it.
But I have read a couple places on here, something about not getting accurate codes, if you don't depress the go pedal.
Is that true?
If so, do you depress the pedal before you turn the key on, or after? Do you just hold the pedal down, or release it?
Ok I'm a pure novice to this buying stuff off Amazon and using a code reader did it take long an will the reader point out where a short might be or what the transmission might hestate not really a slip but changing gears with speed since mine is a E40D going from say 55 to 65 it will act like it's stepped back for a split second
The code reader will tell you what codes are stored in the PCM. When you read them it will give you a code number and a few words related to the code. It is NOT a diagnose of what is wrong with your truck. It will say something like "#1084 - out of range". you can post what the reader says here and we can help.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
From my experience with mine and others in the past, just follow the instructions on the screen. Just to pull codes, you shouldn't have to press the accelerator.
It didn't do any of that. Just spat out numbers. I already looked them up.
10 - Cylinder #1 failed cylinder balance test. (How it could get that result with the engine not running, I have no idea. And I didn't think our engines had anything like a real computer that could do such a thing, anyway.)
23 - TPS voltage higher or lower than expected. (I expected this.)
26 - MAF sensor out of range. (I believe that is instead referring to that "barometer thingy", on the firewall. I have suspected that thing for a while now.)
29 - Insufficient input from Vehicle Speed Sensor. (I have a new one already. I'll replace it when I get the chance.)
67 - Neutral safety circuit failure. Or AC circuit was on during self test. (It was not.)
10 - Cylinder #1 failed cylinder balance test. (How it could get that result with the engine not running, I have no idea. And I didn't think our engines had anything like a real computer that could do such a thing, anyway.)
23 - TPS voltage higher or lower than expected. (I expected this.)
26 - MAF sensor out of range. (I believe that is instead referring to that "barometer thingy", on the firewall. I have suspected that thing for a while now.)
29 - Insufficient input from Vehicle Speed Sensor. (I have a new one already. I'll replace it when I get the chance.)
67 - Neutral safety circuit failure. Or AC circuit was on during self test. (It was not.)
