First time timing issues

chillman88

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Posts
6,022
Reaction score
6,152
Location
Central NY
Alright gents (and ladies where applicable)

As much as I'm embarrassed to admit this, I have to learn and need to get this right.

I've never properly used a timing light. Yep, not on gassers either. Tried once but that engine had other problems too so it was hopeless.

A generous member on here loaned me his timing set up.

Snap-On diesel pulse generator and adjustable advance timing light. Timing light set to 8 degrees of advance (can set to 9 but doesn't do halves).

Problem #1
I've got everything hooked up correctly and cleaned the #1 line off, but the timing appears to be jumping a bit and the Tachometer on the timing light is anything but reliable. I'm going to go buy a new 9v battery for the pulse generator and try that, can't hurt.

Problem #2
I don't know what I'm doing LOL

The engine is turning clockwise if you look at the balancer correct? Therefore if the mark is AFTER the timing pointer the timing is too advanced? And likewise if the balancer mark is BEFORE the pointer the timing is retarded right? Or do I have those backwards.

Basically if the balancer timing mark is before the pointer do I need to turn the IP drivers (retard it more) or passenger (advance it more).

Sorry I'm not normally this dumb but it's been a tiring day.
 

The_Josh_Bear

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2016
Posts
1,916
Reaction score
1,498
Location
Western WA
Problem #1:
If the line is clean enough to eat off of, then next make sure the clamp is TIGHT. Dont break it, but think about it. :)
The 9v was gonna be the other suggestion.

Problem #2:
I had trouble following which mark you referenced so I'll try this:
The 0* timing indicator on the block doesn't move. The balancer moves, so when the balancer mark is ahead(to the left) of the 0* mark, timing is advanced for whatever reading you have on the gun. The balancer mark will trail 0* when retarded.

Also, at idle you will have jumping timing, it's just not gonna be real smooth.
At 2k rpm it should be good and smooth, if you get a few outliers just ignore them and try to focus on where 90% of the timing is. It's just interference sending/recieving the signal and not really an IP problem.

You've got it right as to which way to rotate the IP! I found that cleaning the IP and putting a dot from a sharpie helped me time my engine WAY easier than using the marks. It's much more precise at it doesn't take much to go from 6* to 9*.

Happy Wrenching!
 

chillman88

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Posts
6,022
Reaction score
6,152
Location
Central NY
Problem #1:
If the line is clean enough to eat off of, then next make sure the clamp is TIGHT. Dont break it, but think about it. :)
The 9v was gonna be the other suggestion.

The half I can see is that clean. I'll attack it a little better when I go back at it. The new battery may have helped but I'm not quite sure.

Problem #2:
I had trouble following which mark you referenced so I'll try this:
The 0* timing indicator on the block doesn't move. The balancer moves, so when the balancer mark is ahead(to the left) of the 0* mark, timing is advanced for whatever reading you have on the gun. The balancer mark will trail 0* when retarded.

Also, at idle you will have jumping timing, it's just not gonna be real smooth.
At 2k rpm it should be good and smooth, if you get a few outliers just ignore them and try to focus on where 90% of the timing is. It's just interference sending/recieving the signal and not really an IP problem.

You've got it right as to which way to rotate the IP! I found that cleaning the IP and putting a dot from a sharpie helped me time my engine WAY easier than using the marks. It's much more precise at it doesn't take much to go from 6* to 9*.

Thanks! So I was backwards on timing pointer vs balancer and advanced vs retarded. I was thinking it was the other way. Your way makes more sense but I was tired lol.

I couldn't get it reliable enough to tell what 2k rpm was so I couldn't really tell where the timing was. If it keeps acting like this I think I have an old diagnostic Tachometer that I can use along with the timing light.

It actually seemed to start much quicker warm before I started messing around with it, I think I'll start by setting it back where it was, mark it and go from there.

Thanks!!
 

saburai

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2016
Posts
2,201
Reaction score
983
Location
Bokeelia Florida/Catskill mountains NY
iirc, the tach worked pretty well when I last used it. As for the visualization of the marks, I got everything super clean and then used a yellow paint marker. After the paint dried, I used a fine point sharpie for the individual marks. I studied the timing tech stickies and the manual for the timing light. Again, iirc, the tach worked pretty well, maybe the last digit was jumping. I'd triple check the electrical connections...
 

chillman88

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Posts
6,022
Reaction score
6,152
Location
Central NY
iirc, the tach worked pretty well when I last used it. As for the visualization of the marks, I got everything super clean and then used a yellow paint marker. After the paint dried, I used a fine point sharpie for the individual marks. I studied the timing tech stickies and the manual for the timing light. Again, iirc, the tach worked pretty well, maybe the last digit was jumping. I'd triple check the electrical connections...

Yeah the marks are already painted so I have that covered. I'll double check everything, thanks!
 

chillman88

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Posts
6,022
Reaction score
6,152
Location
Central NY
Tinkered around with it and got it to work good. I'm right around 9.5 at 2k now. I'll run it for a few days and check it again.

Thanks for the help guys!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,217
Posts
1,128,497
Members
24,045
Latest member
Ramtough01
Top